Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[TRAIL TAILOR]

G, Probably PC 5000 shocks.. decent for what you need them for. U-bolts and bushings... Kurt will fix you up quick!

I recently bought a Monroe steering stabilizer for the wife's 80... she really likes the new response and feel of the front end...

J

 

[gregnash]

Yeah I figured that or the ES1000 which are the low end, he did say that they were NOT adjustable. I would love to put some of the new Bilstein 5125s on there but don't think that is going to happen. Probably going to go with Skyjacker as my friends own a shop and can get them for me cheap (or PC or Rancho).

 

[Oaks]

Nice tires! When I need new rubber I am leaning really hard towards the same one in a 255 85 16s. Tall and skinny. Good luck on the suspension.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks, they have been great so far. Had a bit of icy roads this morning and only felt them slip slightly once as I was turn on a slight downhill (same place has broken many tires loose, new or old). Other than that I am still seriously impressed with how quiet these things are on the road. I do not hear them at all during driving regardless of the speed.

 

[gregnash]

Did an oil change today with Rotella T 10w-30 that I found along with a bottle of Rislone 3X engine supplement. See how as likes that as the 10w-30 is supposedly same formula as the 15w-40.

 

[gregnash]

Ok so here is a dumb question for everyone. Talking with the guy he said that the springs were re-arched and an AAL added for a 3-4" lift net. This to me means that they were arched past the original spec which will change the shackle angle. Does this mean that I am going to need to look at shims for the springs to correct that caster angle? Just for posterity sake I will probably pick up his shocks he has and upgrade to something down the road, trying to keep this a fairly cheap upgrade at this point as to not piss off the boss..

 

[indianporfavor]

so a couple days ago i started reading your thread, today i finally finished reading all 26 pages..its funny today is the 3rd thanksgiving to be mentioned in your project...i have enjoyed reading through all your successes/frustrations that im sure everyone else and myself are familiar with. Good looking rig, subscribing to i can keep checking back on BeBe.

 

[Random Dan]

Ok so here is a dumb question for everyone. Talking with the guy he said that the springs were re-arched and an AAL added for a 3-4" lift net. This to me means that they were arched past the original spec which will change the shackle angle. Does this mean that I am going to need to look at shims for the springs to correct that caster angle? Just for posterity sake I will probably pick up his shocks he has and upgrade to something down the road, trying to keep this a fairly cheap upgrade at this point as to not piss off the boss..

I'm doubtful of a re arch giving 3-4" of lift. Since the length of the spring stays the same, the more it arches the further back it pulls your shackle. At least on my truck, with axle at full drop (frame on stands) the wheel sits about 3" lower than ride height (same as where they'd set with a 3" lift). If your springs were arched enough that they sat that way when loaded, your shackles would be vertical or partially inverted, and you would have no more drop left.
Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong, but I don't see any way for this to work without longer springs. Arching past factory specs just seems like a bad idea.

 

[WHG423]

Those tires looking sweet!

 

[gregnash]

I'm doubtful of a re arch giving 3-4" of lift. Since the length of the spring stays the same, the more it arches the further back it pulls your shackle. At least on my truck, with axle at full drop (frame on stands) the wheel sits about 3" lower than ride height (same as where they'd set with a 3" lift). If your springs were arched enough that they sat that way when loaded, your shackles would be vertical or partially inverted, and you would have no more drop left.
Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong, but I don't see any way for this to work without longer springs. Arching past factory specs just seems like a bad idea.

That was basically the same thought process that I had but was not quite sure how spot on I was. As long as they get back up to stock height seeing as mine are completely flat, that would be awesome. I know that the AALs will add a bit of lift but not 3", maybe an inch if I am lucky.

 

[Random Dan]

That was basically the same thought process that I had but was not quite sure how spot on I was. As long as they get back up to stock height seeing as mine are completely flat, that would be awesome. I know that the AALs will add a bit of lift but not 3", maybe an inch if I am lucky.

Did he mean 3-4" over stock height, or over 30 year old saggy height? If the latter, then it'd probably be like an inch over stock height, which seems entirely reasonable.

 

[gregnash]

As just says 3"-4" lift, that's all. I am thinking like an inch over stock height.

 

[gregnash]

Ok so a while back I remember hearing a small pop while driving to work one morning coming from the engine compartment. Checked it when I got there and didnt see anything, no strange voltage spikes/drops or anything weird so I didnt think much of it. And the pop wasnt overly loud it just happened to be one really quiet morning shortly after my fusible link had been replaced and I was still trying to get my stereo working properly.

Anyways, over the last month I have noticed an intermittent tick that is very RPM dependent. I know that this is normally when there is an manifold leak of some sort. However, it is not constant it comes and goes at will. Doesnt matter if it is warm or cold out, first start up of the day or the 15th.

Going to try and upload a video.

 

[Slow Left]

Ok so a while back I remember hearing a small pop while driving to work one morning coming from the engine compartment. Checked it when I got there and didnt see anything, no strange voltage spikes/drops or anything weird so I didnt think much of it. And the pop wasnt overly loud it just happened to be one really quiet morning shortly after my fusible link had been replaced and I was still trying to get my stereo working properly.

Anyways, over the last month I have noticed an intermittent tick that is very RPM dependent. I know that this is normally when there is an manifold leak of some sort. However, it is not constant it comes and goes at will. Doesnt matter if it is warm or cold out, first start up of the day or the 15th.

Going to try and upload a video.

It might be the crank pulley (aka harmonic dampner) going bad, Greg. Here is what that sounds like:

 

[gregnash]

See that is the weird thing, I can only hear it in the cab which is why I think it may be a manifold leak. Nothing like what you posted.

Ok found this video, mine is not wanting to upload for some reason. When the engine is idling that is what I hear in the cab. Again I dont really hear it in the engine compartment and this happened BEFORE i changed the speedo cable and has been persistent since.





Ok finally got mine to upload... Again turn you speakers up LOUD. Of course went out with my digital camera to see if it might pick it up better and no tick.

 

[Slow Left]

So, do you only hear it when accelerating while in gear? If so, then it could be associated with the speedo cable (because that will only rotate if moving in gear, since it runs off the transfer).

But if you hear it also when you accelerate in neutral, then I would think that it isn't associated with the speedo cable...

What are the chances the dizzy cap is loose and the rotor is hitting the cap?

The easiest way to rule out an exhaust leak is to find a local shop with a smoke machine and blow smoke up the tail pipe to see where it comes out...

 

[Oaks]

Ok so a while back I remember hearing a small pop while driving to work one morning coming from the engine compartment. Checked it when I got there and didnt see anything, no strange voltage spikes/drops or anything weird so I didnt think much of it. And the pop wasnt overly loud it just happened to be one really quiet morning shortly after my fusible link had been replaced and I was still trying to get my stereo working properly.

Anyways, over the last month I have noticed an intermittent tick that is very RPM dependent. I know that this is normally when there is an manifold leak of some sort. However, it is not constant it comes and goes at will. Doesnt matter if it is warm or cold out, first start up of the day or the 15th.

Going to try and upload a video.

I have the same dang tick! Driving me nuts for the past few months. Let's figure it out..

 

[gregnash]

@Slow Left - when you can hear it, it is all the time and the intensity changes with RPM. So like in the video, I was just sitting in my driveway and revving the engine and it would speed up/slow down with the RPM. So very RPM dependent

Dizzy cap is not the issue as it has been on there solid for more than a few months. Plus, if it was hitting the cap you would think that there would be some sort of miss or loft in the engine which there is not (idle does not change because of the tick).

The only thing that I can think of is that when I was desmogging the truck the blockoff plate for the J-Pipe had a stud that was busted. This only allowed me to grab a few threads to snug it down. I will get under the truck tomorrow (if the ground isnt wet) to see if maybe the nut came off. The only other thing I can think of is that there is either a manifold leak or that I have some pin sized holes in the exhaust pipe that occasionally cause the tick before the cat.

 

[Slow Left]

I have the same dang tick! Driving me nuts for the past few months. Let's figure it out..

@Slow Left - when you can hear it, it is all the time and the intensity changes with RPM. So like in the video, I was just sitting in my driveway and revving the engine and it would speed up/slow down with the RPM. So very RPM dependent

The only thing that I can think of is that when I was desmogging the truck the blockoff plate for the J-Pipe had a stud that was busted. This only allowed me to grab a few threads to snug it down. I will get under the truck tomorrow (if the ground isnt wet) to see if maybe the nut came off. The only other thing I can think of is that there is either a manifold leak or that I have some pin sized holes in the exhaust pipe that occasionally cause the tick before the cat.

With the engine cold first thing in the morning, right after you start up the engine if you put your hand over where that j-pipe joins the exhaust manifold, if there is an exhaust leak you might be able to feel the exhaust being pump out past the gasket...and on a really cold morning you might see the vapor escaping at the exhaust leak...

Those studs in the exhaust manifold (down pipe and j-pipe) are no joke. I tried to pull them with the manifolds installed, and even with the manifolds off, I ended up breaking 2 of the 5 and had to drill and helicoil before installing brand new studs...

Also, the check valves on the AI system can be sources of loud exhaust leaks...when the body of the valve rusts through and the valve itself inside fails, then exhaust will leak through that rusty hole in the valve body. But if you removed the AI system and welded up the skinny exhaust pipe that y's into the exhaust down pipe, then no check valves anymore for leak...

 

[gregnash]

Problem is that I have no AI system anymore, I am completely desmogged. Otherwise I would immediately go after the valves on the air rail like you said as they are a main culprit (and I think one of mine was completely rusted through).

Just got back from the park with the dogs and no tick again this morning. This is seriously confounding to me. Gonna be putting on my tranny skid plate later so I will check the block off then.