Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe

[Output Shaft]

Listened to it.
Thoughts:
Were you reving it up and down like that to keep it running?
Or was the engine doing that on its own?

Is the vacuum good?
Have valves been checked again? I can definitely hear some loose tappets. Maybe there's a tight one. Sorta loose valves though would not give you that rough idle. A (big) vacuum leak could.
Spark plugs clean?
Wires tight?

 

[Miloslavich]

she runs again!

Greg, do you have a vacuum gauge you could use on her to see whats up? would help.

 

[gregnash]

No vacuum gauge to check what her vacuum is at.
All valves were adjusted when the head was put back on per the FSM.
Truck was fluctuating idle like that on its own...
Cannot hear a vacuum leak anywhere, all lines are attached in the proper locations (checked per the desmog manual prior to receiving the new ICS). Though I have heard some ticking from the front of the manifold which I believe is a small vacuum leak that goes away once the truck is warmed up some.
Spark plugs are brand new.
Wires are all tight and have dielectric grease on them but will re-check.

 

[Output Shaft]

Are you using the vacuum switch that controls fuel cut solenoid valve? (FCS).

That fluctuating idle seems like the fuel cut solenoid is flipping on and off. Triggered by the emissions computer..which is supposed to be controlled by the vacuum switch. . Maybe something to check. Or just hot wire a 12v jumper to the FCS.

Your faulty FCS you replaced could have been stuck in the open position prior to you removing it for the carb soak. Then when you removed it, the (dead) FCS could have sprung back into its normal off position...and wouldn't allow fuel to flow when it was reinstalled.

A bad vacuum switch can cause the engine to oscillate like that if the idle is set high.

To rule out the vacuum switch/emissions computer, maybe run a jumper to the FCS to keep it fully powered up.. And test that.

 

[gregnash]

Ok went out and played with it a bit.... got her purring pretty nice now but a little high at around 1k.

Couple problems I found were....
- #3 plug wire at the dizzy was not seated fully, stupid thing was stuck way up in the boot
- #6 plug wire at the dizzy was not seated fully, stupid thing was stuck way up in the boot
After replacing one plug wire and getting the other to seat properly that fixed part of the idle. From there it was just adjusting timing, idle mixture and idle....

Here's the hard part, my idle mix screw is pretty buggered so it can be hard to turn it properly. I believe I am not 3 full turns out from bottom. Timing it set just after the BB so thinking about 8-10*. Now I think it is just a process of going through and adjusting everything back and forth to get it to idle in the proper range.

 

[Miloslavich]

yeah from there it sounds like a lean drop and idle adjustment. pretty easy!

 

[klinetime574]

Looking pretty good! @gregnash

Is your linkage still sticking? Wanna make sure we fix that before you start driving it more.

 

[gregnash]

i dont know that the linkage is actually sticking. I was just wondering if there is something to grease/lube it with since it seems weird that it would be completely dry in the accelerator linkage.

Started her up this morning and topping off the coolant (since I was losing some yesterday) and I can definitely hear a ticking coming from the manifold. Gonna have to go buy some wobble head sockets to retorque all the manifold bolts that I can. Thought I hit everything but seems to be coming from the front.

 

[Output Shaft]

If you replaced the front small manifold bolt with a new replacement Toyota bolt, the replacements are a tad longer than the originals. It could be possible now with a shaved manifold and side of head that the new bolt bottomed out before fully clamping the manifold.

Maybe not. But something to consider.

See JimC's comment below on Beno's thread:
What's a Parts Guy to Do??

Link 2:
What's a Parts Guy to Do??

 

[HemiAlex]

Finally FINALLY got the time to replace the rear springs after having them re-arched to the proper size..
For note: (I have found that below are the stock spring eye to eye lengths)
Front = 1058mm (FJ60 only)
Rear = 1160mm (FJ60 only)

Anyways, pics are pretty descriptive in there own..
All items replaced are....
- Man-a-Fre u-bolts (stock size)
- Man-a-Fre greaseable spring pins
- Man-a-Fre greaseable shackles (stock length)
- Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings
- OEM Springs with AAL re-arched with 3/4" increase

Here are before and after pics of new suspension stuff...
Before
IMG_2756 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

After
IMG_2774 by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

What made you pick MAF for those products?

 

[gregnash]

What made you pick MAF for those products?

No particular reason.. I was looking for stock replacements that were greaseable and that was all.

 

[HemiAlex]

Thats what I figured. The prices seem fair.

Did the springs pins come in a set of 4 for $40 and also, how much were the hangers? Was it $95 for 4?

I ask because a member here donated a set of 130k mile leafs from a 62. I'd like to get above 31.5" rear and level it at about where you are.

OME AAL, local re-arch, poly bushings and the MAF stuff. Those two prices I asked you for above are simply to see how much it's going to cost total.... I'd like to get close to 35" FTG so I can put my 33x10.5's and not have the suspension bottom out at every bump.

 

[gregnash]

If you replaced the front small manifold bolt with a new replacement Toyota bolt, the replacements are a tad longer than the originals. It could be possible now with a shaved manifold and side of head that the new bolt bottomed out before fully clamping the manifold.

Maybe not. But something to consider.

See JimC's comment below on Beno's thread:
What's a Parts Guy to Do??

Link 2:
What's a Parts Guy to Do??

huh interesting information and I did not check which bolts were supplied to me. I will have to remove that bolt and compare to old since I still have it. Other interesting one is that in the second link it shows a manifold gasket with a marker for F <-----. I don't believe that I saw that on mine, but really should only go on one way correct?

 

[gregnash]

Thats what I figured. The prices seem fair.

Did the springs pins come in a set of 4 for $40 and also, how much were the hangers? Was it $95 for 4?

I ask because a member here donated a set of 130k mile leafs from a 62. I'd like to get above 31.5" rear and level it at about where you are.

OME AAL, local re-arch, poly bushings and the MAF stuff. Those two prices I asked you for above are simply to see how much it's going to cost total.... I'd like to get close to 35" FTG so I can put my 33x10.5's and not have the suspension bottom out at every bump.

Yeah it was a "set" so four of the pins... the shackles were different as the front is a different size than the rear so those were ordered in two sets. I don't remember if it was a "kit" that came with the acceptable shackles or not.

 

[Output Shaft]

I don't know if the gasket can be flipped accidentally and still sort of fit. Or if it even matters. I also don't know if all the manifold gaskets had that F marking. Maybe kits didn't have it.
If you got the gasket from Beno, maybe he has one handy and can take a look.

 

[gregnash]

I don't know if the gasket can be flipped accidentally and still sort of fit. Or if it even matters. I also don't know if all the manifold gaskets had that F marking. Maybe kits didn't have it.
If you got the gasket from Beno, maybe he has one handy and can take a look.

@beno Onur care to weigh in? Is there a Forward/Front marking on all exhaust manifold gaskets? Or is kind of like the Engine Gasket Kit where the Head Gasket is slightly different but still works none-the-less.

 

[HemiAlex]

Yeah it was a "set" so four of the pins... the shackles were different as the front is a different size than the rear so those were ordered in two sets. I don't remember if it was a "kit" that came with the acceptable shackles or not.

Did you stagger the lengths of the shackles or is the width different?

Pardon all the questions, but you think the way I do and you didn't spend $1600 on a lift kit, so I'm all ears!

 

[OGBeno]

@beno Onur care to weigh in? Is there a Forward/Front marking on all exhaust manifold gaskets? Or is kind of like the Engine Gasket Kit where the Head Gasket is slightly different but still works none-the-less.

All OEM exhaust/intake gaskets will have the arrow and the "F".

I do not have any experience with the after market iterations.

 

[gregnash]

All OEM exhaust/intake gaskets will have the arrow and the "F".

I do not have any experience with the after market iterations.

@beno Is the manifold gasket like the head gasket where there really is only one way it can be installed?

 

[gregnash]

Did you stagger the lengths of the shackles or is the width different?

Pardon all the questions, but you think the way I do and you didn't spend $1600 on a lift kit, so I'm all ears!

Sent response to PM.