Builds Finally doing it, 4" lift on my LX (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
ride quality and flex don't have anything to do with a shock being remote res or not.
You want to focus on valving and shock diameter as well as compressed and extended lengths.
nlxtacy,
those OME L sport shocks look great. I think the ss is supposed to be quite good.
Good luck with your install! (sorry, not sure what you're talking about with the drilling)
What drill might that be?
90 degree right angle, guessing.
Maybe the hole for the big bolt when installing caster plates? Had to enlarge the hole to get bolt to fit on mine. (Slee plates)
if thats the case.
Joey has my plates which are different than all the rest. My plates require drilling new holes for the bolt positions on the axle bracket. This is done by using a Milwaukee right angle drill.
I thought maybe a 45 degree right angle drill
Bahahaha.
sailor
Jackass of all trades
Yeah an angle drill worked on my LT plates... Your rig looks great!
nice work with the jack stands! Be safe
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #319
Ok so now that I am home I figured I could right a little more...
I got to Peter's a little late but by the time I got there the ARB was ready to. So a couple squirts of flat black and it was installed in minutes. We started the lift at just about noon on the dot. Almost exactly three hours later the rear part of the lift was done!
I won't bore everyone with the step by step because there are just too many of those threads on here, but basically the rear end was jacked up and wheels removed. All we really did was unbolt everything and just replace in reverse. There was no rust anywhere so all the bolts came off with relative ease. The shocks came out, then the springs. The panhard we kept attached because I didn't get the new links in time. Oh well. Another weekend. The rear upper and rear lower control arms were swapped out. LANDTANK's control arms I knew were beefy, but they are so much bigger and heavier than stock that you will noticeably gasp because the new control arms feel sold and probably three times the weight of stock. Ridiculously stout. These are just not going to bend. Sway bar was an easy affair.
So the sway bar options for the rear...
The stock sway bar links are adequate, I suppose, but they are really rinky-dink considering everything else on the truck is so over built. Now Slee's solution is to use a new drop mount that takes the same bent metal bracket but making it longer, but it reuses the stock link. I really liked it and though it was the way we were going to go with it. That was until we brought out LANDTANK's HD extended sway bar links. There was no decision. It was very obvious that the HD extended links were overbuilt and just looked right. Happy with that decision. The OEM sway bar link are very thin. In fact just removing the bar was all it too to bend the bracket. No way I was going to reuse it.
Everything else just bolted into place. I kept the plastic shaft covers on the OME L shocks because I figured I would be turning around and selling them pretty soon.
So just a few questions for the rear:
A) What is the best way to handle the LSPV? Drop the valve or raise the connector at the axle? I think both have easy solutions but not sure what is the accepted method.
B) I noticed that the e-brake is fairly taught and it now makes so pretty tight turns now. Is there anything that is supposed to be happening with the e-brake?
Some pics before:
I got to Peter's a little late but by the time I got there the ARB was ready to. So a couple squirts of flat black and it was installed in minutes. We started the lift at just about noon on the dot. Almost exactly three hours later the rear part of the lift was done!
I won't bore everyone with the step by step because there are just too many of those threads on here, but basically the rear end was jacked up and wheels removed. All we really did was unbolt everything and just replace in reverse. There was no rust anywhere so all the bolts came off with relative ease. The shocks came out, then the springs. The panhard we kept attached because I didn't get the new links in time. Oh well. Another weekend. The rear upper and rear lower control arms were swapped out. LANDTANK's control arms I knew were beefy, but they are so much bigger and heavier than stock that you will noticeably gasp because the new control arms feel sold and probably three times the weight of stock. Ridiculously stout. These are just not going to bend. Sway bar was an easy affair.
So the sway bar options for the rear...
The stock sway bar links are adequate, I suppose, but they are really rinky-dink considering everything else on the truck is so over built. Now Slee's solution is to use a new drop mount that takes the same bent metal bracket but making it longer, but it reuses the stock link. I really liked it and though it was the way we were going to go with it. That was until we brought out LANDTANK's HD extended sway bar links. There was no decision. It was very obvious that the HD extended links were overbuilt and just looked right. Happy with that decision. The OEM sway bar link are very thin. In fact just removing the bar was all it too to bend the bracket. No way I was going to reuse it.
Everything else just bolted into place. I kept the plastic shaft covers on the OME L shocks because I figured I would be turning around and selling them pretty soon.
So just a few questions for the rear:
A) What is the best way to handle the LSPV? Drop the valve or raise the connector at the axle? I think both have easy solutions but not sure what is the accepted method.
B) I noticed that the e-brake is fairly taught and it now makes so pretty tight turns now. Is there anything that is supposed to be happening with the e-brake?
Some pics before:
