Finally back together, but trouble starting. (1 Viewer)

[pc4400]

Hi everyone! It's been a long time. I'll be moving soon, so I finally had an excuse to get the cruiser up and runner.

After a long sloooow rebuild, I finally have everything back together and am trying to start the cruiser.
I put gas in, fixed a few leaks and everything feels great. Engine turns over smoother than it ever did before. However, the engine will not stay on once I let go of the key (ignition). So my guess is electrical connection somewhere. I must say also, for some reason all lights stopped working. I checked all fuses and they look fine, and they did work only a month ago when I was testing. So maybe there is a fuse somewhere besides the fuse box??

Maybe you might see something in one of the images.

 

[pc4400]

Dam! Just tried again.
Engine only runs if I hold the ignition on, but I can't do that too long since it will burn up the points.

Any ideas?

 

[pc4400]

I was troubleshooting the fusebox, but notices my wiring diagram in my service manual only has 6 fuses, but my fuse box has 8 fuses. Am I looking at the wrong year manual?

 

[pc4400]

went through fuses, found one bad fuse (tail lights). Still can't get engine to stay on.
I tried slightly rotating the distributor and confirmed I have it in the best position.

Any ideas? Points or coil?

 

[JohnnyC]

Do you have a multi meter or test light

With the key in the run position do you have power to the coil?

 

[JohnnyC]

Diagrams:

Coolerman's Electrical Schematics and FSM File Retrieval

Thank you @Coolerman for the great resource

 

[bj40green]

Sounds to me that you have power to the coil when cranking but not when you release the key.
Look around the dropper resistor and check for voltage in the "on" position as JohnnyC said.

Rudi

 

[pc4400]

Do you have a multi meter or test light

With the key in the run position do you have power to the coil?

confirmed, 12VDC at the coil

 

[pc4400]

Sounds to me that you have power to the coil when cranking but not when you release the key.
Look around the dropper resistor and check for voltage in the "on" position as JohnnyC said.

Rudi

dropper resistor? thats the component on the side of the coil correct?
I will test for voltage on both sides of the resistor

 

[pc4400]

ok;
top terminal (connects to coil +, which leads to starter) gets 12VDC when starting

bottom terminal (connects to carb and to Black/Yellow wire (ign switch) gets about 9VDC before engine dies)

 

[pc4400]

wow

Diagrams:

Coolerman's Electrical Schematics and FSM File Retrieval

Thank you @Coolerman for the great resource

, all these years I never realized my Chiltons 66-74 manual was wrong. My manual doesn't show any differences for these years so I never bothered to look at Coolerman's files until now. Thanks a million!

 

[diogenese]

my guess is you have an open circuit dropper resistor or it has been wired up incorrectly.
What is the top connector/coil voltage with the ignition on?

 

[65swb45]

Mike

If your power lead to the coil does not show 12v with the key in the on position, something is wrong. There is a chance you are tapped into the exciter wire, which only has voltage in the start position. It is the same color as the coil lead (black/yellow stripe) which makes it more confusing. If the original leads are missing, A test light usually sorts this out fast enough. IIRC, the exciter wire didn't come in to play until '73, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

so the question is, does your stock wiring appear to have been tampered with?

Mark

 

[pc4400]

Mike

If your power lead to the coil does not show 12v with the key in the on position, something is wrong. There is a chance you are tapped into the exciter wire, which only has voltage in the start position. It is the same color as the coil lead (black/yellow stripe) which makes it more confusing. If the original leads are missing, A test light usually sorts this out fast enough.

so the question is, does your stock wiring appear to have been tampered with?

Mark

Tampered with? only by me.
Blew the engine and just dropped in the rebuilt F. Wiring hasn't changed. Took a million pictures before pulling the engine just to make sure everything went smoothly, but poop hapens.

 

[pc4400]

I dug up my original coil, Ill try swapping it in tomorrow to see if there's a difference. If the new coil is not rated at the original's voltage that COULD have something to do with this issue.
In the very least I could try running the same tests tomorrow with the original coil installed.

 

[pc4400]

Mike

If your power lead to the coil does not show 12v with the key in the on position, something is wrong. There is a chance you are tapped into the exciter wire, which only has voltage in the start position. It is the same color as the coil lead (black/yellow stripe) which makes it more confusing. If the original leads are missing, A test light usually sorts this out fast enough. IIRC, the exciter wire didn't come in to play until '73, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

so the question is, does your stock wiring appear to have been tampered with?

Mark

I couldn't find any exciter wire on mine, my rig is built in May of 72'.

 

[65swb45]

If there is no power in that wire in the 'on' position, what's the point of changing the coil? First things first.

Listen to me. I just had a guy tow his FJ60 into the shop on Friday from the OC for an inspection. When I was done looking it over, I asked him again why it was towed. He said it wouldn't start. We turned the key to the On position but didn't hear the fuel cut solenoid switch. Unplugged and replugged it a couple of times to confirm. He said it must be a faulty solenoid.

I said don't assume you have power.

I ran a jump wire to the battery. The solenoid clicked. Turned the truck over and it started.

 

[JohnnyC]

Are both coils for use with a ballast... Externally resisted ? The one that's on it now... Was it new?

 

[pc4400]

If there is no power in that wire in the 'on' position, what's the point of changing the coil? First things first.

Listen to me. I just had a guy tow his FJ60 into the shop on Friday from the OC for an inspection. When I was done looking it over, I asked him again why it was towed. He said it wouldn't start. We turned the key to the On position but didn't hear the fuel cut solenoid switch. Unplugged and replugged it a couple of times to confirm. He said it must be a faulty solenoid.

I said don't assume you have power.

I ran a jump wire to the battery. The solenoid clicked. Turned the truck over and it started.

Mark, I ran an 8 gauge jumper from battery pos terminal to the point of connection between the ignition wire and the coil positive. I got the engine to turn over, but that's all. I walked over to the ignition switch and in a few moments the engine is running smoothly!

I will still need to run an ohm meter on that wire to see if there is any resistance.

Thanks again Mark!

 

[65swb45]

Stay tuned.