Final consensus on oil filter (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter Herrett
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Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I have read a few stories on Wix and Fram filters failing causing engine failures, a couple on this site. Afterwords, they would not stand behind their warranty.
There was also a pretty comprehensive review on oil filter several years ago on GM Truck Central. I switched to the Mobil 1 filters as a result. But may go back to Mr. T. Also have the 90 filter adapter on mine and love it!
There was also a pretty comprehensive review on oil filter several years ago on GM Truck Central. I switched to the Mobil 1 filters as a result. But may go back to Mr. T. Also have the 90 filter adapter on mine and love it!
The 90* filter adapter makes sense for this reason: When doing an oil change, you can fill the filter up with oil and screw it on without dumping oil all over the place. Filling the filter with oil reduces the interval of no oil in pump system during the 1st startup after the oil change. Yeah it's not a big deal, but it helps to be kind to your engine. I don't have the 90* adapter but instead run an Amsoil remote dual full flow & bypass filter housing that situates the filters as if they were on the 90* adapter. The bypass filter alone holds about a qt of oil that increases the capacity for an oil change.
Here's the OEM filter position with hoses attached to an adapter:
Filters sit behind the driver's side custom mudflap:
Another custom mud flap (easily removable for oil changes) is seen beneath the filters for projectile protection. Bypass filter on left and full flow on right. The connecting hoses can also be seen:
Here's the OEM filter position with hoses attached to an adapter:
Filters sit behind the driver's side custom mudflap:
Another custom mud flap (easily removable for oil changes) is seen beneath the filters for projectile protection. Bypass filter on left and full flow on right. The connecting hoses can also be seen:
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Buy one and report back
The filter casting is mounted to an 'L' shaped bracket with 4 bolts. This bracket is mounted to the wheel well with 4 more bolts. I pulled up the carpet near the dead pedal to accomplish this. The only other pic is a poor one that shows the hose routing between the engine and filter casting. Hoses run along frame between upper DS shock mount and tranny dipstick. This location was a second attempt at it. 1st attempt the filters were mounted under the driver's seat horizontally and was obviously not the best choice when it came time to change filters.
I was an Amsoil distributor for a short time back in the 1980's and had catalogs, so was familiar with their products. I believe you can still get the remote mounting kit. I'm no longer up to date with Amsoil other than using their oil and filters in my 80. I also use their synthetic gear oil and ATF.
I installed this setup 25 yrs ago, within a year after I bought the rig used, with 125K mi. Currently there's 299K+. I sent in samples for the 1st 5 yrs and was getting 15K to 25K miles between oil changes. I'd change just the filters every 5K, keeping the same oil. That was back when it was used as a DD. For the last 15 yrs, it hasn't been a DD and I've been changing both filters and oil every 5K, just to be safe. With the local 4 season climate, condensation can mix with the oil and attack bearings even with the low usage it gets now. Yes, the oil stays cleaner looking longer, but with the experience of past sample results I know when to do the oil maintenance. The engine still runs like new, except for a noisy oil pump. The oil pressure is still solid. I need to do a 300K engine maintenance - gaskets, hoses, minor oil leaks, etc... injectors if necessary and take care of the oil pump. At that time I'll get an oil sample analyzed. Yes I know it's more expensive to run Amsoil at this schedule, but the trade off is I expect the lower end to still be solid with good compression and reasonably tight bearings for the mileage.
FWIW there is a good video on youtube about a diesel Powerstroke engine that had a similar dual filter set-up installed when the vehicle was just a month old, then driven for ~900,000 miles (with frequent oil changes) until a lifter failed. When they tore that engine part they found the main bearings to have almost no wear. The failure of the lifter was determined to be due to metal fatigue of the pin bearings for the roller and not related to lubrication.
Dave's Auto now sells his own version of that "Insane" filter for Diesels, not cheap but better than buying a new engine:
Dave's Auto now sells his own version of that "Insane" filter for Diesels, not cheap but better than buying a new engine:
I've had bad luck with fram and K&n. Fram for letting the top end dry out over night and rattle on startup and k&n not sealed up unless you really crank that thing on(comes off with a screwdriver though). No issues with moble1 or oem. Some people like using an acdelco filter that is supposed to be big and good. No experience.
I have done a lot of research on Fram because of all the different reports, ranging from "it destroyed my engine" to "they are awesome". The first thing I have learned is that a lot of different brand filters look the same on the inside. The Fram Extraguard and Toughguard are completely different filters than the Ultra Synthetic and Synthetic Endurance. Youtube search for the videos testing the filters and cutting them open. The lengths some of these guys go to is incredible.
First thing I want to say is that I have a 3FE which has the filter completely upside down. The drain back valve has to be good for this application because all the oil draining out of the filter causes oil starvation on start up. I originally tried the Wix line and had the valve train noise for the first few minutes of operation. The NAPA line at that time was the Wix filters. Gold, Platinum, it did not mater. I then tried the Fram Ultra synthetic because it has a great looking drain back valve. It looks like an upside down funnel instead of a flat donut. I then tried the Synthetic Endurance because the filter media is higher quality and the case is a lot thicker. I use either of those 2 now but I prefer the Synthetic Endurance. Both keep the valvetrain quiet at start up.
First thing I want to say is that I have a 3FE which has the filter completely upside down. The drain back valve has to be good for this application because all the oil draining out of the filter causes oil starvation on start up. I originally tried the Wix line and had the valve train noise for the first few minutes of operation. The NAPA line at that time was the Wix filters. Gold, Platinum, it did not mater. I then tried the Fram Ultra synthetic because it has a great looking drain back valve. It looks like an upside down funnel instead of a flat donut. I then tried the Synthetic Endurance because the filter media is higher quality and the case is a lot thicker. I use either of those 2 now but I prefer the Synthetic Endurance. Both keep the valvetrain quiet at start up.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Its a simple chunk of metal. No moving parts.
If it "malfunctioned", really only due to operator error. Or, the filter attached was at fault
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Do the hoses drain when the filter is removed? Or when the engine is sitting?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Early tpyota 2H diesel engines had a centrifugal oil filter set up ( some LandRover and Isuzu diesels used them too i believe) people have adapted these to other engines with good results in terms of extending oil change intervals and keeping oil cleaner by removing finer particles
I would have to say yes they do. When I crack the filters loose, there is excess oil that flows out other than what’s in the filters. So I would have to say yes to that. Not so when the engine is sitting though, but how would you know? There’s never been any excessive noise.
