Fiberglass cap removal

[flaa1a]

Does the rear lift window need to be removed to take the cap off my top? I have a 72 so I don't have the barn doors like most of the write up threads on this topic have. I am going to put a new headliner in and perhaps resurface outside. Gutter looks to be in good condition. Top on the outside is really sun beat and chalky feeling.

All the bolts on the sides are out and only one snapped. I feel lucky about that, cap seems to be hanging on in the back.

 

[flaa1a]

Some pics

 

[huminajumina]

There are 4 bolts that are on the inside of the rain gutter that thread into the header that the hinges mount to. So take those bolts out & the hatch & header will stay in place.

 

[flaa1a]

Are they pretty small? I think I see/felt them. A real bugger to get to? And these actually are rust unlike all my other ones!

 

[huminajumina]

I think they are M6 it's a 10mm socket, if you have any rust in the gutter you'll more than likely find out here, all of these bolts sheared off on mine . Put some PB or WD40 on them.

 

[flaa1a]

There are four bolts whose heads are on the inside of the gutter. They kind of match where the ones on the side are. But there are also some other ones.... I think those need to come out too!?

 

[Living in the Past]

I have removed those bolts with a offset boxed end wrench. I'm in AZ so not a expert on removing rusted bolts but when I am trying to remove them I use a little oil on them. If they break free I keep adding a little oil and then tighten, then loosen until I get them out. On bolts like the sides I use another nut to clean the exposed thread before trying to remove the bolt. Again using a little oil. Found the bolt will break free only to lockup and snap off after getting on the crap from expose thread into the fixed nut. I take it you are leaving the front door headers in place or did you take them to remove? On the rear header make sure you don't have another bolt on each side of the header that bolts to the end of the sides. I haven't done this in a while but I believe there are a couple of bolts that go into a flange off the header that bolt to the top of the sides. The drip rail has a larger hole so these do not have to be removed. But like I said there may be one that does need to be removed.

 

[flaa1a]

Yeah... This 40 has been in Kansas for another three years. It's prior 37 years where in Arizona so not too much rust at all. Those offset wrenches sound like the ticket. Is it a 10 mm also? Out on the road going to doc so can't check!

 

[huminajumina]

I am pretty sure all of them are 10mm, any of the bolts in the gutter need to come out in the back, I think only 4 are bolted in from the top, the rest bolt in from the bottom on the sides and go around to the doors, if you look at my build thread I just re-did my gutter some of those pix may help you locate all of it.... (Link is in my signature)

 

[flaa1a]

Not too bad! Guess I will be buying that 300 gasket!

 

[flaa1a]

Took my top in to local boatbuilder. He was excited to get it! He was looking forward to doing something "different".

Here are some snaps of how it looks now. Looks like maybe home jobbed the front visor on with some rivets. The don't look too good and looked to be filled with silicone around each one.

I will update this post as work is being done. Yeah I am not doing it myself, but I wanted to leave the fiberglass work to the pro.

 

[Fast Eddy]

The boat guy is going to finish it with gelcoat? Bravo! That's how it should be.

This thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/734769-fj40-weatherstripping-guide.html says you can use garage door weatherstripping from Home Depot as a cheap alternative to the $300 seal.

 

[flaa1a]

So since this is my summer "big project"....well big money anyway....I was wondering about the sides of the top. There is NO big rust in the space where the weatherstripping would go that is between the tub and sides of the top...but it does seem to be rough and sandy like maybe surface rust is there. Should I hit that with some spray "rust killer" and then shoot it with some paint? Even though no one will see it, I hope to not take the top apart again when I get it all back together. I have new OEM weatherstipping that fits between the tub and sides. I also bit the bullet and got the cap to top 300 dollar piece. But I got it fo like 228 from one of the vendors....

Spray or not worry?

 

[Fast Eddy]

If it's rust under paint the rust killer and paint over it won't help. Evaluate how much time and money you want to continue for this phase. If it worries you, sand one small section down to metal and see what's under there. It's not a bad spot for patched paint since the top covers it. You have to be careful not to let the project turn into a full repaint.

 

[flaa1a]

Alright! I told the boat guy I was in no hurry because I would rather store my cap in his giant warehouse as opposed to my garage. I am getting it back next week.

In the mean time he popped the visor off and since it is off I am going to clean it up and paint it. When he puts it back on with rivets should I have him cover those rivets? How are they on other tops? Exposed? Siliconed? Just want to do it right? I am talking about the white (discolored as or may be) resting on my windshield....

Thanks for the help!
Randy

 

[flaa1a]

Also got my porch art off the porch and on the 40. The correct year hood sans the dints from the "forgot to hook the hood hooks" incident.

 

[flaa1a]

Anyone? On a time crunch here? Please ?

 

[Chamba]

Exposed, covered/sealed with silicon. The same silicon used to seal the rain gutter seam and rivets.

And if you're on A1A (or anywhere near it), be sure to seal it very well!

 

[cruiserpilot]

So since this is my summer "big project"....well big money anyway....I was wondering about the sides of the top. There is NO big rust in the space where the weatherstripping would go that is between the tub and sides of the top...but it does seem to be rough and sandy like maybe surface rust is there. Should I hit that with some spray "rust killer" and then shoot it with some paint? Even though no one will see it, I hope to not take the top apart again when I get it all back together. I have new OEM weatherstipping that fits between the tub and sides. I also bit the bullet and got the cap to top 300 dollar piece. But I got it fo like 228 from one of the vendors....

Spray or not worry?

My advise with any kind of thing you are going to cover up, make sure you protect it. If you are not sure about the top 'rough' stuff, then sand it down to metal to see what you have. This is a very small area, and can be done quickly. Then mask around it, good primer, then paint it again. You are lucky, that red is easy to get at an automotive paint supply place, and you could get one or two spray cans made up. Then hit it with 3-4 coats. Then when you bolt the cap back on, you know it's protected. If the paint isn't a great job, no worries, no one will notice. Just get it protected properly. FWIW, looks good now, you have a nice rig there. Very rare to pull something apart in Canada that looks that good to start with.

 

[flaa1a]

Thanks!!! I appreciate the help! I am excited to get it all back together and will post pics!
Randy