Fiberglass cap removal

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Because water get trapped on the inside of the rain gutter and you cant see it it will rust bad. Take the extra time and buy a por15 kit that has the marine clean metal ready and the por 15 while the por is still tacky put your favorite top coat on. Your going through a lot of work not to do it right. Be sure to follow the por15 instructions to the tee. Youll be happy you did it.
 
Here is a pic of the work the boat fella did. I am taping it off to paint the drip rail....
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Still a little concerned about these... Guy just left the screws exposed. What is the 3M stuff to use in the drip rail?
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I used 3M paintable seam sealer on mine. Put it on, wet your finger and smooth it just like Latex caulk
 
I just took my top apart today so your thread is very helpful. Thanks for posting.
 
The four bolts remove the rear header bar from the gutter. The sides are bolted to the gutter separately. Other than that, the header bars over the front doors come apart by removing the bolts/screws from the vertical surface above the door... Then removing the sloped sheet metal from the door frame to reveal the bolts whic hold the header bar to the gutter.

Clear as Mud... Right.
 
Got it all back together and it doesn't fit worth a sh*t. Gaps in the rear liftgate....holes not lining up perfectly.......

I am going to have to probably take it apart and start over. I have tried to put it on a piece at a time on the 40 and it was suggested that I put the top together first and then put the top on the 40. AHHHHH its a love hate relationship and right now....well you know!
 
I would put the sides on the tub and start the bolts, but do not tighten any bolt until you have all parts together and all bolts installed...including the cap. You have to be able to shift things around to get the pieces together. Good luck...it's been a long time so far on this, taking your time now isn't going to be so bad. I wish my rain gutter and side panels were in as good of shape as yours were!

:cheers:

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