Fed up with your crappy 80 series battery mount? LCP has a fix

[sunrk]

I concur with the other poster that for the re-jigged fusible link setup a proper bulkhead/firewall type feedthrough stud is probably going to be better long-term than a bolt using the battery box substrate to take the clamping load. But that's a neat solution all the same. I'm running Northstar AGM-27F batteries so not sure how they compare to what's called 'group 31'. I use a doubled-up battery bar clamp as a relay bar in front of my starting battery:

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I've re-done the battery terminals and cabling a bit since this pic.



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I've re-done the battery terminals and cabling a bit since this pic.



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[80t0ylc]

I concur with the other poster that for the re-jigged fusible link setup a proper bulkhead/firewall type feedthrough stud is probably going to be better long-term than a bolt using the battery box substrate to take the clamping load. But that's a neat solution all the same. I'm running Northstar AGM-27F batteries so not sure how they compare to what's called 'group 31'. I use a doubled-up battery bar clamp as a relay bar in front of my starting battery:

pic page

I've re-done the battery terminals and cabling a bit since this pic.



Craig.

Craig, no disrespect intended, but why do you have those relays mounted to that unsecure battery hold down clamp? Even doubled up, it still needs to be moved when the battery is removed. Usually you want to mount relays or their bases to a permanent type of location. The stresses to the wiring alone, every time you shift or move that clamp is asking for electrical gremlins that most blokes would like to keep away from. Just asking....

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Lots of different ways to handle the bad design from Toyota. Some have different ideas on what makes them personally comfortable not to say its right or wrong. What we offer is a solution with a proven track record at a reasonable cost with no surprises going forward.

See my sig below

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I concur with the other poster that for the re-jigged fusible link setup a proper bulkhead/firewall type feedthrough stud is probably going to be better long-term than a bolt using the battery box substrate to take the clamping load. But that's a neat solution all the same. I'm running Northstar AGM-27F batteries so not sure how they compare to what's called 'group 31'. I use a doubled-up battery bar clamp as a relay bar in front of my starting battery:

pic page

I've re-done the battery terminals and cabling a bit since this pic.



Craig.

A group 31 is larger than a 27f in both size and amp hours. Many guys use a group 31 rather than duals given them more usable power without the drama associated with dual batteries. Pictured below is the tight fit you get group 31 without the ability of using the factory hold down.

 

[Will Van]

View attachment 1811048
All kits now come with a cap

There is a template for where and what size to drill the holes.

I just received my kit. Unfortunately it didn't come with the template or the rubber grommet to cover the positive post connection outside the battery box.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I just received my kit. Unfortunately it didn't come with the template or the rubber grommet to cover the positive post connection outside the battery box.

See post #1 or web page for template. The idea to supply positive post cap was an after thought and made after your hold down was send out (see post #12). Sorry but available at ACE for .25 I can refund the cost if you like.

 

[scrowley]

ooooh I like the fuse link connection. Theft just occurred. Thanks for the idea.
Great solution on the battery hold down. Defiantly a flaw by yota...At least for trucks banging around on the trail.

 

[Zor]

Super easy install. I put a 34/78 Optima in today, which would not work using the stock battery hold down. I’m still in the middle of making heavier and longer cables, but progress is progress. Thanks for making it easy @LandCruiserPhil.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Super easy install. I put a 34/78 Optima in today, which would not work using the stock battery hold down. I’m still in the middle of making heavier and longer cables, but progress is progress. Thanks for making it easy @LandCruiserPhil.

View attachment 1814261

Looking forward to seeing this build through

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Works with all batteries and all sizes

Clean install of an Optima

Install by @Zor

 

[sunrk]

No disrespect taken, but with a N70 size battery there isn't much room for it to move in the tray, altough yes the factory hold-down method is a little, umm, strange. The fender wall side clamp does secure to the body metalwork though so it's not all sillyness. it's only the inside clamp on each battery tray that is clipping to the tray itself. It wouldn't have taken Toyota much work to make that part of the tooling to make the trays have a lot more thickness on the inside (closest to radiator) side.

Here's a pic I took just today of one of the Northstar AGM-27F's (N70 dimensions) in the main battery position from a more straight-on angle (and you can see the re-worked negative terminal setup that I've done - pos is still not yet done):

pic page

The relay bar mounts directly in front of the bar that actually is clamping the battery down and bolts to the same j-bars.

Phil, does your new product suit N70 size batteries or only smaller ones (as shown in some of the pics)? I'm very interested in the idea of re-arranging the fusible link setup though and found I have a Blue Sea firewall pass-through but it's a pretty chunky item. If the material of the battery tray itself is used for securing something it would need to use nylock nuts if they're rated for the heat level that's present in the engine bay. Just a suggestion of course.

Craig.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Hi Craig, I tried to answer your question see post #24. Ill try again

The set up can run up to a group 31 larger than a group 27. Because of the size of the group 31 you cannot use the factory hold down. Below is the largest battery you can run in an 80 series and also a much smaller Optima. Our kit will work with ALL the batteries you can get in the factory tray.

Group 31

Optima

Group 34

Also room for a washer bottle with all size batteries

 

[kilmarkid]

Great design Phil. Just installed mine and finally a solid battery after the factory hold down bit the dust years ago. Been using 2 15 inch hose clamps around the back of the box and the front of the battery with so so results for years.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Great design Phil. Just installed mine and finally a solid battery after the factory hold down bit the dust years ago. Been using 2 15 inch hose clamps around the back of the box and the front of the battery with so so results for years.

Thank you! Happy we were able to help

FWIW hose claps are better than bungee cords

 

[sunrk]

I'm in the process of fixing up a tradie's type trailer which has a solar panel/regulator and N70 size battery in a tray inside. This new bracket seems like the optimal way to go as I can sit the battery in a plastic tray and bolt it and the battery straight to the floor of the trailer. I don't know if Phil has confirmed his kit fits n70 size batteries yet so if it does I want to get one for the trailer and then I can think about how to mod my battery clamp setup in the 80.

Craig.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I'm in the process of fixing up a tradie's type trailer which has a solar panel/regulator and N70 size battery in a tray inside. This new bracket seems like the optimal way to go as I can sit the battery in a plastic tray and bolt it and the battery straight to the floor of the trailer. I don't know if Phil has confirmed his kit fits n70 size batteries yet so if it does I want to get one for the trailer and then I can think about how to mod my battery clamp setup in the 80.

Craig.

Bracket works with all 7" wide batteries

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Sorry for the short delay in shipping. Tons in stock

 

[cody c]

Looks good, but I'm not enamored with the thru bolt for the fusible link.

I think a proper bulkhead feed thru would be betterer

Something like:

Cole Hersee 46211-R Battery Feeder Stud Red

cheers,
george.

Thats a cool $9.39 bulk head piece, but you don't need an insulator for a plastic bulkhead, I'm guessing that's made for sheet metal penetrations. And it has no benefit in protecting the head of the screw from touching other metal components than LCP's product. Actually the brass bolt conducts better probably but isn't even as strong. It also protrudes out further as well..

You just like that thing cause it looks cool don't you??? Haha.. Happens to me sometimes too.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thats a cool $9.39 bulk head piece, but you don't need an insulator for a plastic bulkhead, I'm guessing that's made for sheet metal penetrations. And it has no benefit in protecting the head of the screw from touching other metal components than LCP's product. Actually the brass bolt conducts better probably but isn't even as strong. It also protrudes out further as well..

You just like that thing cause it looks cool don't you??? Haha.. Happens to me sometimes too.

View attachment 1885772


Hey LCP, what amperage is the fusible link rated for? Same as factory (whatever that is)?

Not sure of the factory links rating but looking at the wires they are much less than the 50A available with our jumper.

As for the above bulk head fittings, like many mods there are many options. Our set up has been in use for several years without issue on several 80 so we run it and sell it with confidence.

 

[cody c]

Not sure of the factory links rating but looking at the wires they are much less than the 50A available with our jumper.

As for the above bulk head fittings, like many mods there are many options. Our set up has been in use for several years without issue on several 80 so we run it and sell it with confidence.

I edited my post, I thought for a minute your red jumper was a replacement fusible link for part of that setup.