Fan clutch solves overheating

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

landtank said:
FYI: I just didn't wildly adjust that control disk, I can repeat this over again.

This adjustment that you made... do you think it's a matter of the oem setting was not adequate for your cooling needs or that it was improperly set when manufacturer? I'm assuming the first, and that others could make similar adjustments if they needed more cooling.

:beer:
Rookie2
 
Rookie2 said:
This adjustment that you made... do you think it's a matter of the oem setting was not adequate for your cooling needs or that it was improperly set when manufacturer? I'm assuming the first, and that others could make similar adjustments if they needed more cooling.

:beer:
Rookie2

If you read those other data point threads where everyone is posting to evaluate where the truck should run you'll see high temps everywhere.

I think that in the name of fuel economy Toyota adjusts these clutches to be just enough to avoid serious issues and the gauge was made to hide the obvious fluctuations from that decision.

Right now I'm trying to get a hold of CDan to get some 3000cst oil from him as I believe that the clutch is low on oil as well. I've read several articles on the web and think I can apply what they are doing on the older clutches to our newer style.

Adjusting the timing is quite simple but does require some time to get the clutch assembly up to a stable temp on the kitchen stove.

When I get the oil level sorted out and a trip in 2 weeks under my belt to check MPG numbers I'd be comfortable working with a few people on further testing. I just don't want to let this out and F-up 30 or 40 fan clutches.

As another data point I let the truck idle for 10 minutes and saw no movement in temp and also a drive around town with rock stable temps. It's 84* in the shade right now.

My AC is dead and is going into the shop to be fixed. This won't happen until the 10th at the earliest. I have a leak at the compressor where the high pressure line attaches and don't have the tools to repair it myself. This is something that has been coming on as last year it needed a charge to get it back up.
 
I just bought an Imperial replacement from CSK ($59, no tax or shipping charges). Here are comparison pix of stock '93 and the Imperial.

93Aisin_vs_Imperial1a.jpg


93Aisin_vs_Imperial2a.jpg


The Imperial unit is smaller. It's made in the USA by Hayden.
 
I notice that the Imperial branded Hayden clutch housing is screwed together and the Napa distributed Hayden clutch housing is riveted together.
 
Last edited:
Those look like bolts in the pictures above.
 
I'm comparing the Napa Hayden pictured in posts 110 & 111 to the Imperial pictured in post 143. I did update my comment to correct that it is the Imperial that is screwed together, and the Napa Hayden is not, I had incorrectly swapped the two.
 
looks like we are on track for a fix of the OEM Aisin blue hub unit

:beer:
 
RavenTai said:
looks like we are on track for a fix of the OEM Aisin blue hub unit

:beer:


Okay, sorry, I missed several specific things ...

Is the "fix of the OEM Aisin Blue Hub"

1. Replacing it with the Hayden unit,

2. Filling it up with one of the three thicknesses of silicone oil,

3. Weighing it while comparing to the weight of a perfectly full or perfectly fixed hub?

Thanks, I'm somewhat slow this morning! :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Okay, sorry, I missed several specific things ...

Is the "fix of the OEM Aisin Blue Hub"

1. Replacing it with the Hayden unit,

2. Filling it up with one of the three thicknesses of silicone oil,

3. Weighing it while comparing to the weight of a perfectly full or perfectly fixed hub?

Thanks, I'm somewhat slow this morning! :cheers:


landtank said:
Adjusting the timing is quite simple but does require some time to get the clutch assembly up to a stable temp on the kitchen stove.

When I get the oil level sorted out and a trip in 2 weeks under my belt to check MPG numbers I'd be comfortable working with a few people on further testing. I just don't want to let this out and F-up 30 or 40 fan clutches.

As another data point I let the truck idle for 10 minutes and saw no movement in temp and also a drive around town with rock stable temps. It's 84* in the shade right now.

Shawn it looks like Rick is onto something and he will tell us more and test some things on other trucks when he is confident of his results. sounds like the fix may be adjusting the valve in the clutch. engaging the clutch at a lower temperature will have a negative effect on gas milage so getting the a good ballanced setting will be important

Rick, let me know when you want me to test something,
 
RavenTai said:
Rick, let me know when you want me to test something,


Actually the temps up here aren't cooperating. It was supposed to be 90+ but it's only 76*.

RavenTai I would love to have you help me with this at this point. Since you live down south you could get more real time data faster than I'll be able to.

For anybody else who would like to help out here send me a PM. People who have a good history of their performance and have something more than a stock gauge would be great.

At this point all I've done is advance the timing of the clutch. It's a pretty simple procedure and easily reversed as long as the original position is scribed before moving.
 
turbocruiser said:
Okay, sorry, I missed several specific things ...

Is the "fix of the OEM Aisin Blue Hub"

1. Replacing it with the Hayden unit,

2. Filling it up with one of the three thicknesses of silicone oil,

3. Weighing it while comparing to the weight of a perfectly full or perfectly fixed hub?

Thanks, I'm somewhat slow this morning! :cheers:


Sorry for the confusion, it's just this thread has taken a few turns along the way. Originally my mind set was to trash the Blue clutch in favor of a better aftermarket one. But with some proding from Tools R Us I decided to see what was going wrong with the OEM clutch.
 
oops,

I did not think It would be this fast, I just got off a 7 day work strech and I am about to go into another. It will be a week or possibly two before I can help.

I will PM you when I have some time to work on this. we certainly do have reliable testign conditions right now, it was 97 yestrday with high humidity, we have had a couple days in the low 100's
 
in the mean time I need to place an order with Dan, should I add some oil to that order also? witch viscosity? and how much?
 
RavenTai said:
in the mean time I need to place an order with Dan, should I add some oil to that order also? witch viscosity? and how much?

It might be a little early to order the oil. Right now I'm just trying to get the timing thing worked out. I have 2 bottles of oil coming in and should have some feel as to what is needed by next weekend.

I'm writing up a pdf proceedure so if you PM me inculde an e-mail address so I can send it to you.
 
Well, I did a 450 mile trip this weekend. I was fully loaded with the roof rack on for camping. I have the new fan clutch on per the earlier posts. The temps were in the mid to low 90's and against a major head wind. On some pretty long hill climbs with the A/C on, I still had some mild overheating. Just to the point where the guage moved and the A/C kicked off momentarily. No where near as bad as before new clutch, but still an issue. The biggest hit came when climbing the Austin Summit, westbound. Because of the curves, the speeds dropped to 40ish mph. The other occasions were brief and recovered quickly everytime. So big improvement, but not a total fix. The PO had the thermostat replaced, I'm not sure if it was OEM or not. They did use new Toyota Red. So that may be my next route.

Jack
 
UPDATE AC is working

I managed to figure out what I was doing wrong on the AC last night so today I went out and charged the AC system and got it going.

It's currently 84* out

I let the truck idle for 10 minutes in the sun with the AC on at medium fan speed.

I saw no signs of the temp gauge moving at all.

Using a digital thermometer I was seeing AC vent temps of 52*F


2 people have e-mailed me for the Tweak instructions so hopefully we will have some more data coming in on this soon.
 
Last edited:
Has anyone compared the aftermarket to factory thermostat? I am wondering if the disk on the back is the proper size and/or spacing to fully close the bypass? If it allows it to leak, that would greatly affect cooling.
 
Tools R Us said:
Has anyone compared the aftermarket to factory thermostat? I am wondering if the disk on the back is the proper size and/or spacing to fully close the bypass? If it allows it to leak, that would greatly affect cooling.

I actually saw better more consistant cooling when I went from the Stant back the the OEM T-stat .
 
landtank said:
I actually saw better more consistant cooling when I went from the Stant back the the OEM T-stat .

That's what I am wondering, if the bypass disk on the stant isn't sealing properly. It would open and look good in a hot water test, but allow hot coolant to bypass in service causing cooling inconsistency?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom