Fan clutch solves overheating (1 Viewer)

[landtank]

quite a few people have opted to have me set up the clutch. I imagine they figure it's a small price to pay to get expected results. What they have done is have Dan ship the clutch to me directly and then I ship the finished clutch out to them.

But if you are confident with what I posted you can do it yourself. I recently got an e-mail from someone who did just that and it fixed his overheating problem. So it is possible to do it yourself.

 

[Tools R Us]

When you refer to the "earlier style clutches", do you mean the same Toyota p/n that came from the factory on FZJ80s?

Yes.

... The factory fill appeared to be at least as viscous as the fresh silicone fill, if not slightly more so...

The old fluid is not so much about the "viscous" as it is about loosing it's unique ability to shear. Old, dead fluid needs to be cleaned out and replaced.

Has anyone here rejuvenated and/or adjusted their original style FZJ80 clutch?

I have done a couple of changes on them with good results. Brother Brian has been running one for a year without issue.

 

[psfpilot]

Tools R Us,
Thanks for the answers. How much silicone did it take to refill the old style clutch? With your experience, would you feel comfortable refilling it with straight 10,000 cst, versus a blend of 6,000 & 10,000 cst? Also, did you use a solvent to clean out the old fluid, or did you just drain it via gravity?
-Jon

 

[greauxpete]

I drained and filled my clutch last night (no timing change).
I drained it using a heat gun to thin out the fluid
and get it out quicker (and as best I could). Took about 20 minutes.
Then I filled it with 2 tubes of 10,000 Cst fluid.
2 tubes seemed to fill it up more than enough.
(Of course there was probably still some of the old stuff in
that I could not get out).

 

[psfpilot]

How much silicone to re-fill old style clutch?

I put approximately 3/4 of a 2oz. bottle of hobby store 10,000 wtg silicone in the clutch, after draining out most of the old fluid. The old stuff, as seen in the attached pics, was honey colored; the new was clear/opaque.

Both halves have reservoirs. The front half is drainable when the triangular vents are opened by twisting a screwdriver inserted into the external thermostat. The rear half has three holes that are always open. I refilled the rear reservoir by squirting silicone into one hole until it began to flow out of the other two holes.

Tools R Us, or anyone else with experience with these thermostats:
How much silicone is needed to properly fill this style of thermostat? I don't have a baseline because I had previously added silicone without determining how much was in the front and rear halves.


External view showing the external thermostat:_________Front half of clutch:

Rear half of clutch:

Hobbytown.com silicone, $10:

 

[treehugger]

njm

 

[treehugger]

4x4

 

[psfpilot]

Bump for post #225

 

[landtank]

I've only taken the blue clutches apart, so no help here, sorry

 

[Tools R Us]

I have filled them with about 1.5-1.7oz with good effect. I doesn't matter where you put it in the clutch, it will be pumped into the front reservoir when the motor is started.

 

[alia176]

I have filled them with about 1.5-1.7oz with good effect. I doesn't matter where you put it in the clutch, it will be pumped into the front reservoir when the motor is started.

I filled mine up with 36 mL (two tubes) of 6,000 CST and now she won't unlock at high RPMs. I can hear the "roar" at 75 mph or at 2,800 rpm. 36mL = 1.2 oz. Did I put in too much?

When I emptied the old stuff, I'd approxmiate that less than 1/2 of a tube (18mL) came out. Perhaps I should empty some out tomorrow. If it wasn't such a PITA to remove the fan...

 

[psfpilot]

Alia176,

Did you insert something into the slits so the front half was able to drain? I found that it sealed quite well while closed, and had to insert a small nail into the slit to hold it open so the front half could could drain. There was a considerable amount in the front half that I didn't notice until I forced the slits to open with a small standard screwdriver inserted into the coils of the external thermostat.

I found it a snap to remove the fan by using a rubber mallet on a box-end combination wrench to get the nut removal started on the fan/water pump pulley's nuts, and then I used the same 12mm wrench to remove the two bolts holding the top of the fan shroud so it could be moved away from the radiator enough to wiggle the fan/clutch assembly up and out between the radiator and the fan shroud. It now takes me about 5 minutes to remove it and 5 to reinstall it.

 

[alia176]

Well, I heated up the whole thing with a heat gun and that opened up the slits. I was hoping that it drained itself while cooling down but maybe the slits closed too quickly. Thanks for the heads up on that. That may explain why I didn't see a lot of fluid coming out!

For some reason, my fan shroud is trapped by the battery tray so it's quite difficult to space it out as you stated. Since I'll be revisiting this again tomorrow, I'll see if I can make this work w/o breaking the battery tray!

thanks.

 

[psfpilot]

Mine's trapped by the battery box as well, but I had just enough space at the opposite corner to pull the fan out.

 

[alia176]

Mine's trapped by the battery box as well, but I had just enough space at the opposite corner to pull the fan out.

I've got another battery box on the opposite corner as well Maybe tomorrow, I'll just remove the loosen the aux battery box and see if that will afford some space.

Thanks.

 

[landtank]

I usually sit the clutch on the mounting flange over night and this gets the oil to drain out of the front of the clutch. Then after I open the clutch up I sit the base on it's side on the rim of a small plastic container for about an hour. That usually gets enough out so two tubes works great.

 

[alia176]

Ahh, gotcha.

Thanks.

 

[psfpilot]

I usually sit the clutch on the mounting flange over night and this gets the oil to drain out of the front of the clutch. Then after I open the clutch up I sit the base on it's side on the rim of a small plastic container for about an hour. That usually gets enough out so two tubes works great.

landtank, are you talking about the old-style clutch? Mine had the slits sealed tightly enough that I don't think it would drain at all unless the slits are manually held open.

 

[landtank]

landtank, are you talking about the old-style clutch? Mine had the slits sealed tightly enough that I don't think it would drain at all unless the slits are manually held open.

No the blue one. That's the only one that I've opened up.

 

[Tools R Us]

It's a pain to get all of the fluid out of the old style clutches, the blue hub's are much easier to deal with. I prop the valve open, put the clutch half's open side down in a flat pan, spaced up off the bottom with nuts, sockets etc and heat in the oven at 150f or so, allow it to cool and sit overnight. I find the hub side to be the hardest to get most of the fluid out, find that propping so that it can set open side down and standing up, like it sits installed in the truck and alternating back and forth a couple of times gets the most out.

The first one that I did, I measured what I got out, IIRC slightly under 1.5oz. But how much was in the rags, on the tools, pan, etc? Unfortunately it's not an exact science and probably not a problem to leave some of the old and mix with the new, just the fill amount will need to be less. When the hub side is mostly empty the hub to casting will spin almost free, if there is resistance, fluid dampening feel there is still fluid in it.

I usually spin them up on the lathe and make sure they release before installing. But never gave it much thought, if one is too full it's easy to pop it off and suck some out. Didn't think about the dual battery setup that would make it a pain.