Fan clutch R&R help needed (1 Viewer)

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Sep 10, 2016
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so I decided to replace my fan clutch and thermostat to attempt to address my hi engine temps. I've searched for a long while and can't seem to find a good thread on the best way to get the fan clutch out. I'd like to take the fan shroud off to give me better clearance to avoid toasting the radiator.

Questions:

Can I just loosen the bolts securing the metal and plastic lines overlying the shroud seen in the picture, push it out of the way, and lift the shroud up and out? The metal line is stiff and it feels like breakage is imminent....

Do most guys disconnect the radiator hoses as well? I thought I read this was a quick project.

Thanks!!

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I unbolted the shroud, pushed it back towards the motor, unbolted the fan, and took them out at the same time. That seemed to work pretty well for me...
 
I unbolted the shroud, pushed it back towards the motor, unbolted the fan, and took them out at the same time. That seemed to work pretty well for me...
Holy cow this was a pain. I have no idea how you would do it without releasing the upper rad hose from the radiator. This giant crescent shaped hose clip in pointing to gave me the biggest headache.... now how am I gonna get all this bs back in there....

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Take the upper hose off. You'll only lose about a cup of water, or you can remove a bit from the draincock at the bottom of the rad and take the hose off. Makes life a lot easier.
 
man, you take the air train off, from MAF to butterfly. Undo the four bolts where it attaches to the pulley with a hammer and a 12" wrench from under the truck, and pull the fan and clutch out as one piece from the top. No hose undoing, no shroud moving. First time sucks.
 
Late suggestion for removal, but for install place a protecting sheet of cardboard over radiator fins on back side.

I suppose you pulled fan clutch because it was spinning freely and/or wobbled loosely.
 
Late suggestion for removal, but for install place a protecting sheet of cardboard over radiator fins on back side.

I suppose you pulled fan clutch because it was spinning freely and/or wobbled loosely.
Thanks gents. I replaced fan clutch, thermostat, coolant exchange, and oil change today. Sucked pretty hard. I did the fan clutch because it seemed a little loose, at least comparable to video posted on this site of suspiciously free spinning fan. I tackled all this because I got up to 221 in line at Starbucks the other day when it was 104 outside. Thankfully it's only 102 here today.

Anyway I took the top rad hose off to get the shroud and fan and clutch out. I then dumped the coolant and oil, got the thermostat out, which looked pretty good, and then discovered the start thermostat gasket I got from advanced auto was a total pos. I then tried to Uber to the dealer, and the driver made me change my clothes before he'd let me in his car. Eventually I got a real gasket, came back, and took the air train from the butterfly to the maf free and pushed it up out of the way. This gave me enough space to squeeze the shroud in, then I squeezed the naked clutch in, then I attatched the fan. I have no idea how you could get the fan+clutch out with shroud in place, nor does it seem possible to get the shroud out with the fan clutch coming out. Restarting the car, I forgot to attach the maf and It ran like ass. Once i was sure everything was totally plugged in, I restarted, burped the system, and listened to a cacophony of awefull screeches and rattles that all eventually went away. Clutching my wallet tight and in tears, I decided to clean up and put the skids and engine cover back on. I will go for a test drive shortly.
 
Serp belt had coolant on it, so did pulleys, once coolant rubs off, noise goes away.
You can prevent this by rinsing the coolant off of everything with the garden hose once it's all put back together.
 
Man that makes me feel better! I lossend the serp just the slightest amount to get the clutch to spin so it would present the nutless bolts to me. All makes sense now.
 
It might not seem possible but it is. Someone else on here said it was. That's why I tried in the first place. I had the wrong one at one point. So I've done it 3 times now. Glad it all went ok for you.
 
It might not seem possible but it is. Someone else on here said it was. That's why I tried in the first place. I had the wrong one at one point. So I've done it 3 times now. Glad it all went ok for you.
Thanks man I gave it a good try just couldn't make it happen. I'm sure I'm missing something. If I have to do it again I'll pay someone to do it.
 
Well I can hear the fan blow like a boss now. Much more promenenet than befor. Still gets up to 210 ideling all day in 105+ heat. I guess I'll try a new rad cap next. Then I gotta tackle this gas smell in the cab/fuel boiling out the cap problem.
 
Swapping in a new radiator might be good. I replaced mine and saw a pretty decent drop, from 206 peak to 194 peak.
It was the last thing on my cooling system refresh. Nothing affected my temps until a new one was installed. Everything else is new. I wasn't buying the info that running above 200 is normal. It might be ok, but I don't believe it was meant to be.
 
Swapping in a new radiator might be good. I replaced mine and saw a pretty decent drop, from 206 peak to 194 peak.
It was the last thing on my cooling system refresh. Nothing affected my temps until a new one was installed. Everything else is new. I wasn't buying the info that running above 200 is normal. It might be ok, but I don't believe it was meant to be.
Probably the next move. Is there a decent weiteup for this somewhere? Any hot tips on installation to ease my pain?
 
It will be obvious once you undo the shroud and push it up against the engine pulleys to make room. Leave the fan assembled. Use brake clamps or soft vice grips on tranny cooler lines. Re use fluid if new. Have a foam surround solution before removal if you cannot re use yours. I sliced mine off and re used with spray adhesive. Tape it up and let it dry before install.
 
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It will be obvious once you undo the shroud and push it up against the engine pulleys to make room. Leave the fan assembled. Use brake clamps or soft vice grips on tranny cooler lines. Re use fluid if new. Have a foam surround solution before removal if you cannot re use yours. I sliced mine off and re used with spray adhesive. Tape it up and let it dry before install.
Cool thanks. I think I can make it happen. There's been enough time between the trauma of replaceing the fan and possible read replacement to feel good about it.

Dumb question: tranny cooler run coolant for tranny fluid? The last rad I replaced sent trany fluid through the rad and I plug with press on saranwrap and rubber bands.
 
Condoms over the trans cooler lines held on with rubber bands or tape works well too.
 

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