Fan Clutch Bad? (3 Viewers)

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So pull it out and add more fluid or drain some fluid out?
I live in the Northeast. All winter long the clutches never open and the clutch is constantly sprayed with road salt. That condition can corrode the temp spring and prevent the operation of the clutch. Only solution is a new clutch.

Not sure what you should do
 
Any other thoughts on what I should check?
From a native Phoenician - as I mentioned before, check your airflow coming in the front, and consider replacing your Radiator if there's any hot or cold spots.

You're already running way too hot, and the summer heat is just getting started. A TYC-1918 may be in your future...
 
From a native Phoenician - as I mentioned before, check your airflow coming in the front, and consider replacing your Radiator if there's any hot or cold spots.

You're already running way too hot, and the summer heat is just getting started. A TYC-1918 may be in your future...
Sorry Longduck,
Not to discount your feedback. You helped me out with some emissions info a couple years back when we moved here.

Radiator, condenser and other coolers (oil and trans?), are all clean. The radiator is only a few years old, which I'll admit means nothing really. But if the fan clutch doesn't solve it, then yes a radiator is next one the list.

Thanks for the reply!

Randy
 
Definitely do the Fan Clutch before the Radiator, regardless. Go in order of lowest cost and complexity rather than fire the parts cannon,
 
I could not hear my fan clutch on start up and my A/C was not even coolish when idling in the sun. Threw an ASIN clutch in this week and I can hear the fan on every startup and the A/C blows cool when idling. I went with AISIN FCT-004, off of amazon, no mods, under $100 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00829HAV8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
 
Definitely do the Fan Clutch before the Radiator, regardless. Go in order of lowest cost and complexity rather than fire the parts cannon,
Fan clutch on order.
 
I live in the Northeast. All winter long the clutches never open and the clutch is constantly sprayed with road salt. That condition can corrode the temp spring and prevent the operation of the clutch. Only solution is a new clutch.

Not sure what you should do
Ohio, bought brand new orange clutch just last year.
 
Elaborating on the foam radiator seal - this is delivered with OEM radiators and is nothing more than foam tape stuck to the radiator such that when you install it, the foam butts up against the radiator surround, and compresses a bit to ensure that no hot air can get pulled from the backside of the radiator to the front in certain vehicle speed conditions.

The AZ contingent are firm believers in using this foam stripping along all 4 sides to seal the radiator to the support as it helps to force the frontal airflow through the radiator, prevents air from being spilled off the sides or bottom, and prevents recirculation of the hot air from the engine bay to the front side of the radiator at the top. Some may think that air coming in the front doesn't matter - but when it's 120F - every little bit helps to keep the engine running cooler.

While it can be added with difficulty after your radiator is installed, it's far easier to install the strips on the radiator first, then install it, as it creates the best seal around the edges. Again, Toyota radiators come with the strips pre-installed. Aftermarket radiators (TYC-1918, in my case) had to add it myself. Foam tape of the right size is available at Home Depot or Lowe's at nominal cost, just be sure you get enough to cover all of the front-facing surfaces where it meets the support.
 

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