- Thread starter
- #1,621
Well, we are doing a work party on the 21st, there's always time for a zip around the block; although it won't make you pee your pants like yours will, or Chad's tow rig for that matter. That thing is a monster!
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The ol Dodge does scoot around nicely... Hopefully the drive helped ya! If you need another go around, just let me know. We'll hunt for a Prius to smoke out or something! 
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boots4 said:
Man... my daughter just qualified for state for track and of course it lands on that weekend. Unfortunately I am out for that weekend.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
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- www.cascadecruisers.com
Man, thanks for trying Mike... things are just too busy right now to get a day in the garage. Hopefully things will calm down in the next month or so.
- Thread starter
- #1,626
Update
Here are pics of the TPS sensor mount I made and the TPS I'm using for one of the inputs for my tranny controller. It was a while ago and I'll have to search my thread to see if I even mentioned what application I got the TPS from. I want to say it's for a GM Savanna Van in the 90s. I made the bracket adjustable and from looking at the pics I want to clean up the edges so it looks nicer but it does it's job now just the same.
It rotated the wrong direction for me so back then I drilled out the top so I could fit my "key" in it. The key is simply an allen wrench that fits in the bolt head that holds my throttle arm together. I then modified the other end to fit into the TPS with some filing.
Installed using the bolt holes for the AFC cover.
My steering box has been leaking quite a bit. I finally spent some time investigating instead of just filling the reservoir up. I pulled the box and not wanting to crack it open I found a potential problem with my ~AN fitting. I looks like it was bottoming out on the nut shoulder and not allowing the inverted flare to seal like it should so I grinded some material off the shoulder. The reinstall looked good and since the leakage markings made it look like that was the main culprit I convinced myself to reinstall the box and not crack into it to replace seals (I did get another autozone kit almost two months ago).
The ~AN is the fitting on the left. This is with the shoulder thinned.
When I tightened my hose I felt it get tight and then loosen up, turns out the nut split on the hose side. I ran to Portland Oil Filter Service the next day and had them whip up a new one. I reused the 90 and replaced the hose with one 4" shorter (other one was too long anyways) and replaced the straight end. $25 labor included and I was back at home putting it on.
I doused it with cleaner, pressure washed that side of the frame and let it run. I didn't see any leaks and was happy...for a day. It still leaks and I'll have to pull it back off to play again. Think I'll get another gallon of fluid and deal with it later. Besides I'm trying to see if I can find an fj80 box for a reasonable price locally. If not I'll reseal mine and try again.
Other stuff:
I hooked up with Creepersleeper to drive his truck (5.9 common rail) to get some ideas about shift points. I drove it around interested in light to mid throttle shift points and actually found it pretty helpful. I think he was starting to fall asleep and on our way back to his place he urged me to lay into it. Holy
That thing is quick! Now I've got boost envy and now I'm trying to figure out how to get my turbo project bumped up my list. Good thing I only hit it once because the affects are finally wearing off and I'm starting to believe Dora accelerates alright again.
Anyways, I learned that my shift points are really pretty good, it's just the line pressure (firmness) I want to adjust. Since the controller is tunable I see myself continuing to play with it for fun but it's pretty close right now. Since I have two tables I can run use one for experimentation and keep the current configuration on the other side. Again a laptop will be the ticket and Creeper offered to loan me one so I think I'll take him up on his offer since I've determined the optic drive is shot on mine and with it being old it's not worth fixing.
A couple weeks ago I noticed that my air filter had split across several pleats. I started some research on replacements and found these guys: R2C Performance Filters
I want to try them out and had a hard time finding any conicals online or locally from them so I called them up and we worked out a deal. It'll be here by next week and I'll continue my write up about it once it shows up but I'm pretty excited about it.
Here are pics of the TPS sensor mount I made and the TPS I'm using for one of the inputs for my tranny controller. It was a while ago and I'll have to search my thread to see if I even mentioned what application I got the TPS from. I want to say it's for a GM Savanna Van in the 90s. I made the bracket adjustable and from looking at the pics I want to clean up the edges so it looks nicer but it does it's job now just the same.
It rotated the wrong direction for me so back then I drilled out the top so I could fit my "key" in it. The key is simply an allen wrench that fits in the bolt head that holds my throttle arm together. I then modified the other end to fit into the TPS with some filing.
Installed using the bolt holes for the AFC cover.
My steering box has been leaking quite a bit. I finally spent some time investigating instead of just filling the reservoir up. I pulled the box and not wanting to crack it open I found a potential problem with my ~AN fitting. I looks like it was bottoming out on the nut shoulder and not allowing the inverted flare to seal like it should so I grinded some material off the shoulder. The reinstall looked good and since the leakage markings made it look like that was the main culprit I convinced myself to reinstall the box and not crack into it to replace seals (I did get another autozone kit almost two months ago).
The ~AN is the fitting on the left. This is with the shoulder thinned.
When I tightened my hose I felt it get tight and then loosen up, turns out the nut split on the hose side. I ran to Portland Oil Filter Service the next day and had them whip up a new one. I reused the 90 and replaced the hose with one 4" shorter (other one was too long anyways) and replaced the straight end. $25 labor included and I was back at home putting it on.
I doused it with cleaner, pressure washed that side of the frame and let it run. I didn't see any leaks and was happy...for a day. It still leaks and I'll have to pull it back off to play again. Think I'll get another gallon of fluid and deal with it later. Besides I'm trying to see if I can find an fj80 box for a reasonable price locally. If not I'll reseal mine and try again.
Other stuff:
I hooked up with Creepersleeper to drive his truck (5.9 common rail) to get some ideas about shift points. I drove it around interested in light to mid throttle shift points and actually found it pretty helpful. I think he was starting to fall asleep and on our way back to his place he urged me to lay into it. Holy
That thing is quick! Now I've got boost envy and now I'm trying to figure out how to get my turbo project bumped up my list. Good thing I only hit it once because the affects are finally wearing off and I'm starting to believe Dora accelerates alright again. Anyways, I learned that my shift points are really pretty good, it's just the line pressure (firmness) I want to adjust. Since the controller is tunable I see myself continuing to play with it for fun but it's pretty close right now. Since I have two tables I can run use one for experimentation and keep the current configuration on the other side. Again a laptop will be the ticket and Creeper offered to loan me one so I think I'll take him up on his offer since I've determined the optic drive is shot on mine and with it being old it's not worth fixing.
A couple weeks ago I noticed that my air filter had split across several pleats. I started some research on replacements and found these guys: R2C Performance Filters
I want to try them out and had a hard time finding any conicals online or locally from them so I called them up and we worked out a deal. It'll be here by next week and I'll continue my write up about it once it shows up but I'm pretty excited about it.
Last edited:
Looking good Mike. Sorry to hear about the troubles with the leaking box still. If you decide to just rebuild the stock box mine is available to play with so you dont have Dora down for too long.
Also if you decide to come down on the 21st to play with the Isuzu then we can take my laptop out and drive for a bit while you do some tuning. This way I can get excited and gain some more momentum to finish the truck. I would also like to see how you routed some of your exhaust too.
Talk to you soon.
clint
Also if you decide to come down on the 21st to play with the Isuzu then we can take my laptop out and drive for a bit while you do some tuning. This way I can get excited and gain some more momentum to finish the truck. I would also like to see how you routed some of your exhaust too.
Talk to you soon.
clint
- Thread starter
- #1,629
Update
Couple of things this round.
First I've been making some orders lately. One of them was for a Dynamic Timing Advance kit. The VE injection pump on my cummins has a timing advance function that increases timing with increased rpm. The little device that controls that has a limited travel distance, this kit merely gives it more space to travel allowing more range of timing advance. So what this means is that I can return the timing back to factory numbers for better low end and this kit allows more internal travel to allow more timing advance on the upper end where it's more useful. I heard about this on 4btswaps, did some research on the bomber sites and decided I wanted to run one so I picked one up from M & H Inc. - Dynamic Timing Device.
It's a pretty simple kit, just a spacer really but it costs $105 shipped. I'm hoping with this, hotter injectors, a fuel pin and more tuning that I'll be able to work that HE351VGT turbo I'm still planning on throwing on in the future. This kit goes under the KSB unit on the side of the IP.
Since I'm odd, I brought this with us on vacation this weekend in the thoughts I might have some free time to play on the truck. I did get a block of time and it was fun wrenching in perfect sunny weather at a beach house (beach front) with the sound/site of the ocean in the background. There was something peaceful and enjoyable about it.
Getting to the two little T-30 torx head screws was a little challenging due to the steering pump being right there but with a torx socket and my small 1/4" ratchet I was able to get in there and loosen them up.
This is what comes out, a spring and a shim. Some diesel fuel comes out but not much and it doesn't drain the pump or anything.
This is how it goes back together with the left side against the KSB and the right side against the IP. So left side starts factory shim, kit shim, factory spring, kit spacer and o-rings.
With some careful hands and no gloves because I needed the dexterity I got it all installed.
I re-timed my pump to 13.5 degrees and did some IP tuning. I gave it a little more power screw, adjusted the star wheel, adjusted the AFC, and the smoke screw. I started it up and it worked! That's always a nice result. We went to take it for a drive to the store and I was getting an error code on my tranny controller. Basically the TPS was not reading or it was intermittent. I'd take it off and rotate it and it would read voltage on the controller, I'd put it back on and it would just stay at zero when I moved the throttle. After some head scratching I figured out it was the way the TPS was mounting now causing the internal arm to not contact the wiper area when it was rotating due to it being pushed just far enough up. I found some perfect washers in my misc. spare parts in the truck and the first attempt was with tape. That didn't hold it well even for a temporary test so when we ran to the grocery store I found something that would be easy to mod but strong enough to keep some tension on the washers. As luck would have it there were even holes spaced just perfectly in it to use my existing screws.
Yup, a plastic 33 cent ruler.
It held well on our return trip home and fine this morning to work. I think I'll cut something out of aluminum to replace my ruler fix before I take it to any car shows.
The re-tune and timing kit gave me more grunt down low and more pull up top. The turbo responds faster and while I do get a puff it doesn't haze as much. We believe I'm now around 185hp and 395 ft lbs. Someday I'll have to put it on a dyno to get hard numbers. Probably not until after the turbo upgrade though.
A couple weeks ago I found my air filter split. I taped it to get a few more miles until I could do some research and get a new one.
I believe that it got a crease in it that made a weak point and with the motor rock I get on shutdown it eventually just split it. It must have be hitting the fender well the way I had it mounted just enough to create the stress and eventually split it. I did some reading to see if I could find anything else I wanted to try and so I went back to looking at the fluted donaldson style filter but at $100 plus for a universal I kept looking. Another Amsoil was going to be $70 plus. I per chance stumbled across R2C performance filters and started to research them. They are kinda new in the automotive performance market but have been around for many years supplying the military and dirt track guys.
R2C Performance
I couldn't find dimensions for their conical filters anywhere so I called them up and talked to Ed (I'll have to check my notes). He was confident, relaxed, and helpful and asked what kind of an application I was fitting one for. He liked the swap and asked for the space constraints where I was putting my filter so that he could get the biggest one in there. Since this was a new application for him he cut me a great deal and sold it to me for $50. When we got home it was on the front doorstep.
Part No. C010517
It's a dry conical and has these dimension:
7.25"(big end) x 5.34"(small end) x 9.5" overall length 4" inlet
I adjusted the intake piping to space the filter off the fender well better and I'll need to make some mods to my heat shielding so I took it out for now. The filter cage feels quite a bit stronger than my previous Amsoil filter so for durability I think this will hold up pretty well. Under the same tune I gained 2psi max boost on my turbo from better air flow. I haven't been wheeling in way too long but now I feel better about heading out with my engine protected.
The last thing I've ordered recently was a complete swap kit for the 14bolt from Ruffstuff. There were some things missing (diff cover), somethings to be exchanged (disc brake brackets) and some things to be returned (I bought the antiwrap plates but not the kit so the bushings, bolts, and additional plate need to go back). I also pick up another heim as a spare. The website is new and has a few little fixes needed but I talked to Dan and he's on it. When I opened up the box and found the different pieces I called and talked to Brian and he said he'd have the right parts send out the next day and a return label for the others. I understand there are hiccups from time to time and it's the how a company deals with making things right that makes it important.
I've redone my hood liner. I cut them out to fit in the recesses and glued them in. Visually I think it looks better and it still cuts the noise down.
So now I'll need to turn my attention to the axle, wheels and tires.
Couple of things this round.
First I've been making some orders lately. One of them was for a Dynamic Timing Advance kit. The VE injection pump on my cummins has a timing advance function that increases timing with increased rpm. The little device that controls that has a limited travel distance, this kit merely gives it more space to travel allowing more range of timing advance. So what this means is that I can return the timing back to factory numbers for better low end and this kit allows more internal travel to allow more timing advance on the upper end where it's more useful. I heard about this on 4btswaps, did some research on the bomber sites and decided I wanted to run one so I picked one up from M & H Inc. - Dynamic Timing Device.
It's a pretty simple kit, just a spacer really but it costs $105 shipped. I'm hoping with this, hotter injectors, a fuel pin and more tuning that I'll be able to work that HE351VGT turbo I'm still planning on throwing on in the future. This kit goes under the KSB unit on the side of the IP.
Since I'm odd, I brought this with us on vacation this weekend in the thoughts I might have some free time to play on the truck. I did get a block of time and it was fun wrenching in perfect sunny weather at a beach house (beach front) with the sound/site of the ocean in the background. There was something peaceful and enjoyable about it.
Getting to the two little T-30 torx head screws was a little challenging due to the steering pump being right there but with a torx socket and my small 1/4" ratchet I was able to get in there and loosen them up.
This is what comes out, a spring and a shim. Some diesel fuel comes out but not much and it doesn't drain the pump or anything.
This is how it goes back together with the left side against the KSB and the right side against the IP. So left side starts factory shim, kit shim, factory spring, kit spacer and o-rings.
With some careful hands and no gloves because I needed the dexterity I got it all installed.
I re-timed my pump to 13.5 degrees and did some IP tuning. I gave it a little more power screw, adjusted the star wheel, adjusted the AFC, and the smoke screw. I started it up and it worked! That's always a nice result. We went to take it for a drive to the store and I was getting an error code on my tranny controller. Basically the TPS was not reading or it was intermittent. I'd take it off and rotate it and it would read voltage on the controller, I'd put it back on and it would just stay at zero when I moved the throttle. After some head scratching I figured out it was the way the TPS was mounting now causing the internal arm to not contact the wiper area when it was rotating due to it being pushed just far enough up. I found some perfect washers in my misc. spare parts in the truck and the first attempt was with tape. That didn't hold it well even for a temporary test so when we ran to the grocery store I found something that would be easy to mod but strong enough to keep some tension on the washers. As luck would have it there were even holes spaced just perfectly in it to use my existing screws.
Yup, a plastic 33 cent ruler.
It held well on our return trip home and fine this morning to work. I think I'll cut something out of aluminum to replace my ruler fix before I take it to any car shows.
The re-tune and timing kit gave me more grunt down low and more pull up top. The turbo responds faster and while I do get a puff it doesn't haze as much. We believe I'm now around 185hp and 395 ft lbs. Someday I'll have to put it on a dyno to get hard numbers. Probably not until after the turbo upgrade though.
A couple weeks ago I found my air filter split. I taped it to get a few more miles until I could do some research and get a new one.
I believe that it got a crease in it that made a weak point and with the motor rock I get on shutdown it eventually just split it. It must have be hitting the fender well the way I had it mounted just enough to create the stress and eventually split it. I did some reading to see if I could find anything else I wanted to try and so I went back to looking at the fluted donaldson style filter but at $100 plus for a universal I kept looking. Another Amsoil was going to be $70 plus. I per chance stumbled across R2C performance filters and started to research them. They are kinda new in the automotive performance market but have been around for many years supplying the military and dirt track guys.
R2C Performance
I couldn't find dimensions for their conical filters anywhere so I called them up and talked to Ed (I'll have to check my notes). He was confident, relaxed, and helpful and asked what kind of an application I was fitting one for. He liked the swap and asked for the space constraints where I was putting my filter so that he could get the biggest one in there. Since this was a new application for him he cut me a great deal and sold it to me for $50. When we got home it was on the front doorstep.
Part No. C010517
It's a dry conical and has these dimension:
7.25"(big end) x 5.34"(small end) x 9.5" overall length 4" inlet
I adjusted the intake piping to space the filter off the fender well better and I'll need to make some mods to my heat shielding so I took it out for now. The filter cage feels quite a bit stronger than my previous Amsoil filter so for durability I think this will hold up pretty well. Under the same tune I gained 2psi max boost on my turbo from better air flow. I haven't been wheeling in way too long but now I feel better about heading out with my engine protected.
The last thing I've ordered recently was a complete swap kit for the 14bolt from Ruffstuff. There were some things missing (diff cover), somethings to be exchanged (disc brake brackets) and some things to be returned (I bought the antiwrap plates but not the kit so the bushings, bolts, and additional plate need to go back). I also pick up another heim as a spare. The website is new and has a few little fixes needed but I talked to Dan and he's on it. When I opened up the box and found the different pieces I called and talked to Brian and he said he'd have the right parts send out the next day and a return label for the others. I understand there are hiccups from time to time and it's the how a company deals with making things right that makes it important.
I've redone my hood liner. I cut them out to fit in the recesses and glued them in. Visually I think it looks better and it still cuts the noise down.
So now I'll need to turn my attention to the axle, wheels and tires.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
Good update Mike.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
whoa, nice hoodliner!! I need to do that... Got nothing over my turbo now... rain is steaming when hitting the bonnet!
Are you running the KSB to a hot lead or off of a t-stat?
- Thread starter
- #1,633
Mine was set up with a sensor on my intake plate so it's reading intake temperature, and yes I am running it. The sensor sends a signal until it reads 90F and then stops returning pump timing to normal.
Last edited:
I ask because I thought it was mainly for emissions on start up and advanced the timing/increased pressure and was hard on the pump over a long time - is that correct?
That IS a great write up Mike. See you in a couple of hours. BTW did you see Matt?
Thanks,
Clint
Thanks,
Clint
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Mike-where do you stand with the 14 bolt? I now have 3 of them and plan to run the DRW hubs on a SRW axle. 4x4 labs said they would help with the cutting and sleeving of the axle itself.
Anyway, all this auto trans stuff is like the teacher's voice on the old Charley Brown shows, and I'm looking forward to progress on your 14 bolt so I can copy.
Anyway, all this auto trans stuff is like the teacher's voice on the old Charley Brown shows, and I'm looking forward to progress on your 14 bolt so I can copy.
- Thread starter
- #1,637
I don't have a solid answer for you so I'll have to do some reading and get back to you to make sure I'm spreading the right info.
I've done some cutting and cleaning today on the 14 bolt. Everything has been removed (brackets, carrier, pinion) and the tubes are cut. My tubes look to be 3/8 and not 1/2 inch thick but I'm only going by eye. I'll take actual measurements for the update. I did measure the ID to start hunting for insert material and I'll be looking for something with it's OD close to ~2.80". I also trimmed the bottom. I wanted to do a shave but I'm starting to approach a time crunch for our OBCDR route 3 at the end of June and I'd like to have this under the truck for that trip. So hopefully in the next couple of weeks it'll be supporting Dora's weight.
Why don't you see if you can find a TPS off a Dodge Ram with the VE pump? It would be more factory like and reliable.
TPS with bracket, 91-93 dodge cummins | eBay
By the way sweet rig.
The DRW 14 bolt and the SRW 14 bolt are identical with the exception of the hubs themselves. The axle shafts are all the same.
IIRC it's only the Cab and Chassis 14 bolt that is physically narrower than the DRW or SRW axle.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I have a Cab and Chassis 14 bolt, and a SRW 14 bolt. Both are the same width and use the same shafts. They differ in the hubs, and in the placement of the backing plate bracket. On mine, the oil seal surface on the spindle is better on the SRW axle and I'm going to use the cab and chassis hubs to keep it a bit narrower overall. They also differ a bit on the spindle hardware, and I'm using the spindle nuts and key from the C&C which is nicer and easier to adjust.
I got the hubs rebuilt with new bearings(Timkin) and seals(Moog made in USA) (good price at AutoZone if anyone else is looking for USA Timkin bearings) last weekend, as well as the disc brake conversion.
Ruff Stuff sells a brake bracket to run the DRW hubs on the SRW axle. Pretty cool.
Mace-what are you running for a brake master on BOB?
Sorry about the hijack, but related!