Are you saying you don't like the 80 anymore? Are you saying you should have built a 60 from the get-go?
I agree, you should have
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Are you saying you don't like the 80 anymore? Are you saying you should have built a 60 from the get-go?
I agree, you should have
Are you saying you don't like the 80 anymore? Are you saying you should have built a 60 from the get-go?
I agree, you should have
At the time i built it the 80 I was the right project for me. But now every morning on the way out of the house I look at the 80 and try to picture a way to get bigger tires on her and can't see a solution unless I start over.
Mikes truck is begging for rockwells with 40 spline overson shafts, an np205/203 and 47"s (54's?)
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
just remove the body .. keep everrything else ( drive train, axles, frame etc ) and make a tube body ( I'm pretty sure you will do domething fantastic ) and that's it ..
I will love to see that ..
hijack over ..
Still hijacking....
My body is getting so trashed now anyway....
The other issue is the drivetrain. The gearing of the 80 will be insufficient with 47" plus tires. I think the 80s tcase is at least as strong as an atlas but I only have 3.1 gears. Toyboxes arnt going to hold. I can't go lower in the diffs than 586 without getting even weaker r&p. Perhaps 300m 35sp shafts.....
The sad truth is that on the dusy trip I fell in love with mikes truck and less in love with my 80. Those classic 60 lines and all that Huge power, consistent crawl, sexy sound, and that beefy rear end. she's a hot machine. All she needs is s tire job and she'd be my dream boat. Sigh
Hijak done
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
But, that huge rear of the 60 is also a major damage collector. I certainly understand the desire for a new project, though.
Why not swap a modern chevy small block into the 80, use a GM transmission and Atlas, and run the tires you have?
If your that anxious to ditch the axles in your 80, I'd like the front one.
Hopefully, Boots is still posting in this thread
Why not swap a modern chevy small block into the 80, use a GM transmission and Atlas, and run the tires you have?
If your that anxious to ditch the axles in your 80, I'd like the front one.
Hopefully, Boots is still posting in this thread
But, that huge rear of the 60 is also a major damage collector. I certainly understand the desire for a new project, though.
Why not swap a modern chevy small block into the 80, use a GM transmission and Atlas, and run the tires you have?
If your that anxious to ditch the axles in your 80, I'd like the front one.
Hopefully, Boots is still posting in this thread
the small block yes. ive almost finished putting together the new dry sump ls3 for the buggy and one of them 500hp monsters would be fun in a heavy 80-but i think 300hp/500lbft of cummins grunt would make for a better trail truck. a 4 speed atlas or 3 speed stak would be nice too-my dad has a 3 speed stak in his new rig and it lets you do everything.
but that sort of power and bigger tires on a heavy 80 (or 60) will likely start eating even one-tons.
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big blocks are better. 
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Dusty .. you need to open a new thread so we can debate your new project idea .. ! 
Last hijack .. you drive train with a tube minimal body will put so much less stress over all your drivetrain and axles .. you will make a better hp by pound offroad plataform that way ..
Last hijack .. you drive train with a tube minimal body will put so much less stress over all your drivetrain and axles .. you will make a better hp by pound offroad plataform that way ..
- Thread starter
- #1,530
update
Maintenance slapped me in the face last week. Dora's morality was in question since she was handling loose and wouldn't respond directly. I thought the passenger side wheel bearing might be getting loose since I was recently in it. So I got the jack, tested it and no wiggles. Figured I might as well test the driver side and it wiggled quite a bit. I reset the preload and gave it just a little more. Well a little more with a breaker bar turned out being a lot more! The next morning I was commuting to work and was only a couple miles from home when it felt like I'd just stomped through a big puddle. It slowed me down and I knew exactly what it was. I pulled over to check it and the hub was hot but didn't seem like it would fall off so I limped it home at 15-20 miles and hour on the side of the road with my flashers on. Grabbed the car and headed to work.
I tore it down on my day off and found the damage. Pulling the hub revealed some chunky material inside.
Found some more on the back of the hub.
The rotor was not spinning vertical anymore and rubbed on the caliper.
The outer bearing came off without a problem but the spindle shows a little extra heat but nothing real concerning.
The inner bearing is the one that failed. I had to "persuade" the rotor off of the spindle (you can still see the wheel seal behind the race on the spindle). The cage was demolished and rollers started falling to the ground. These in the pic are welded to the race. I thought I might be able to salvage the spindle but my hammer, chisel and grinder attempts were futile. I ended up hurting the spindle trying to remove the race so it was going to need replacing.
Got a hold of Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters and got a knuckle rebuild kit for the driver side along with new koyo trunion bearings and new koyo wheelbearings for both sides. Since I recently replaced the passenger side trunion bearings I'm going to call this as an axle rebuild. I was running chinese crap bearings in there and wanted better quality. The first rebuild kit I got was before I knew anything and since I stress my parts with heavy wheels and such I wanted better stuff to roll on. I also grabbed some rear axle seals since one of those is leaking. Not sure how motivated I am to replace it since I plan on swapping in the 14 bolt I've been holding onto this year anyways.
Noticed what looked like the birf hitting the inside of the ball but didn't see anything on the birf themselves.
Got the grinder in there for a little clearance.
This was the driver side inner bearing's outer race.
This was the passenger side inner bearing outer race. It was starting to roll rough and when I wiped the spindle I got some metallic flakes in the grease so I'm glad I also replaced the passenger side wheel bearings.
For preload I tightened the inner nut down until the rotor would not spin, loosened it, hand tight until I couldn't spin, and then gave it a 1/6th. Driver side tab washer and outer nut went on good but the passenger side keep spinning the tab washer, chewing off the spindle keyway tang on the tab washer and spinning the inner nut screwing up my preload. I munched three tab washers doing this. After the first I cleaned up the nut faces from all grease thinking it was causing a problem. The last one I got as tight as I could before the tab washer looked like it's tang was going to give. I don't think it is enough so I'm sure I'll be back into it to at least test it.
I also got sick of having to fish out snapped lock-out bolts so on an errand I stopped by the hardware store and picked up some flange head bolts 6M x 1.00 in a 16 length.
So I got it back on the road and it was tracking better but the brakes were mushy and it pulled driver side when braking. Bummed and out of time I parked it for the week. I looked at her this week and found some more things. Wiggle tested both sides but the wheel bearings were tight. The front circuit brake fluid was pretty dark so with the help of
I flushed through both calipers. Then I had her push on the brake with the system powered and I found what looked like three pistons on my passenger front side caliper not working. Also looks like one piston from the driver rear is not actuating. So the front driver is working and pulls the truck to the left because the passenger side is not equalizing the braking action. Seems like they froze/stopped working all of the sudden but maybe I lost one piston at a time to where it wasn't noticeable and I got used to it. Like maybe the pads are just getting old and need replacing. I looked at how this stresses the rotor and on the passenger side it tries to push it out meaning it's pushing against the wheel bearing and their preload, maybe even loosening things up over time. Anyways I also found my passenger side tie rod TRE extra sloppy allowing the alignment to change and probably help accentuate the pull to the left. I would rather have more play in the steering wheel than have the wheels in and out of alignment so I swapped the bum TRE to the passenger side drag link and will replace it.
I really missed driving her last week so I brought her to work and am planning more space for braking when driving. I had to find a new, closer location for welding supplies and ended up finding a great one. One of the guys behind the counter started asking about the truck and that lead to the hood popped and a quick start up to hear her run. He's been wanting to put a 4bt in his power wagon.
Maintenance slapped me in the face last week. Dora's morality was in question since she was handling loose and wouldn't respond directly. I thought the passenger side wheel bearing might be getting loose since I was recently in it. So I got the jack, tested it and no wiggles. Figured I might as well test the driver side and it wiggled quite a bit. I reset the preload and gave it just a little more. Well a little more with a breaker bar turned out being a lot more! The next morning I was commuting to work and was only a couple miles from home when it felt like I'd just stomped through a big puddle. It slowed me down and I knew exactly what it was. I pulled over to check it and the hub was hot but didn't seem like it would fall off so I limped it home at 15-20 miles and hour on the side of the road with my flashers on. Grabbed the car and headed to work.
I tore it down on my day off and found the damage. Pulling the hub revealed some chunky material inside.
Found some more on the back of the hub.
The rotor was not spinning vertical anymore and rubbed on the caliper.
The outer bearing came off without a problem but the spindle shows a little extra heat but nothing real concerning.
The inner bearing is the one that failed. I had to "persuade" the rotor off of the spindle (you can still see the wheel seal behind the race on the spindle). The cage was demolished and rollers started falling to the ground. These in the pic are welded to the race. I thought I might be able to salvage the spindle but my hammer, chisel and grinder attempts were futile. I ended up hurting the spindle trying to remove the race so it was going to need replacing.
Got a hold of Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters and got a knuckle rebuild kit for the driver side along with new koyo trunion bearings and new koyo wheelbearings for both sides. Since I recently replaced the passenger side trunion bearings I'm going to call this as an axle rebuild. I was running chinese crap bearings in there and wanted better quality. The first rebuild kit I got was before I knew anything and since I stress my parts with heavy wheels and such I wanted better stuff to roll on. I also grabbed some rear axle seals since one of those is leaking. Not sure how motivated I am to replace it since I plan on swapping in the 14 bolt I've been holding onto this year anyways.
Noticed what looked like the birf hitting the inside of the ball but didn't see anything on the birf themselves.
Got the grinder in there for a little clearance.
This was the driver side inner bearing's outer race.
This was the passenger side inner bearing outer race. It was starting to roll rough and when I wiped the spindle I got some metallic flakes in the grease so I'm glad I also replaced the passenger side wheel bearings.
For preload I tightened the inner nut down until the rotor would not spin, loosened it, hand tight until I couldn't spin, and then gave it a 1/6th. Driver side tab washer and outer nut went on good but the passenger side keep spinning the tab washer, chewing off the spindle keyway tang on the tab washer and spinning the inner nut screwing up my preload. I munched three tab washers doing this. After the first I cleaned up the nut faces from all grease thinking it was causing a problem. The last one I got as tight as I could before the tab washer looked like it's tang was going to give. I don't think it is enough so I'm sure I'll be back into it to at least test it.
I also got sick of having to fish out snapped lock-out bolts so on an errand I stopped by the hardware store and picked up some flange head bolts 6M x 1.00 in a 16 length.
So I got it back on the road and it was tracking better but the brakes were mushy and it pulled driver side when braking. Bummed and out of time I parked it for the week. I looked at her this week and found some more things. Wiggle tested both sides but the wheel bearings were tight. The front circuit brake fluid was pretty dark so with the help of
I flushed through both calipers. Then I had her push on the brake with the system powered and I found what looked like three pistons on my passenger front side caliper not working. Also looks like one piston from the driver rear is not actuating. So the front driver is working and pulls the truck to the left because the passenger side is not equalizing the braking action. Seems like they froze/stopped working all of the sudden but maybe I lost one piston at a time to where it wasn't noticeable and I got used to it. Like maybe the pads are just getting old and need replacing. I looked at how this stresses the rotor and on the passenger side it tries to push it out meaning it's pushing against the wheel bearing and their preload, maybe even loosening things up over time. Anyways I also found my passenger side tie rod TRE extra sloppy allowing the alignment to change and probably help accentuate the pull to the left. I would rather have more play in the steering wheel than have the wheels in and out of alignment so I swapped the bum TRE to the passenger side drag link and will replace it. I really missed driving her last week so I brought her to work and am planning more space for braking when driving. I had to find a new, closer location for welding supplies and ended up finding a great one. One of the guys behind the counter started asking about the truck and that lead to the hood popped and a quick start up to hear her run. He's been wanting to put a 4bt in his power wagon.
Last edited:
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ah... you missed a perfect opportunity to swap in a d60.
Glad you got it figured out.
Glad you got it figured out.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
ah... you missed a perfect opportunity to swap in a d60.
you bad influence .. remember those days where Toy axles was good choice ..
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na, if I were a bad influence I would have told him to step up to rockwells.
- Thread starter
- #1,534
update
If I got slapped in the face last week, this week I got kicked in the nuts.
So I'm pretty much doing a brake overhaul. Bought a passenger front and a driver rear caliper, ordered some EBC pads for the front and will run some generics out back, swapped all caliper flex lines to stainless braided with the plastic protective covering, and picked up a new master cylinder. Only thing I didn't/won't be getting are rotors. I'll just do a redneck resurfacing with my sander.
Also found that I had the front and rear brake circuits hooked to the wrong side of the master so I'll be redoing some fittings. Not sure how I missed that one but maybe I'm thinking a little clearer this time.
While I was painting the new calipers I figured I might as well change out that rear axle seal that is leaking. It would also give me an opportunity to check on the bearing surfaces on my poly axles. Of course I had parked in the exact perfect spot to deny me from removing my driver side axle.
I had a feeling I should have moved it just a little further back when I parked it when tearing into this whole thing but I didn't follow the prompting so I had to do some two steps back stuff and move it back so I could pull out the axle. I had to disassembly the aussie locker to get to the C-clips to remove the axles.
The reason I wanted to check on them is because Poly Performance had a bad batch of axles get out to the public where the bearing surface was not properly hardened and this was around the time I bought mine so I've been a little nervous ever since I found out. Upon first glance it looked like the axles were fine but as I spun them over I got the kick... Yup, I got some from the bad batch. So now I have to yank everything apart, separate my rotors from the axles, pull the third, and wash everything down since there are now metal flakes floating around in hypoid sauce. I'm in contact with Poly and aside from some shipping label issues (which actually got resolved as I've been putting this together) it's going smoothly to get them replaced. I'm dealing with Kurt and he said he pulled a pair and put them next to his desk that are ready to ship back to me once they get mine so turn around wait should be minimal. Still sucks to have the truck down but my sweet is used to this now and doesn't flinch anymore.
Here are the damage pics I took. Looks like I caught them somewhat early.
Driver side is the worst.
Different lighting
Passenger side didn't look bad at first glance but I found evidence it was only a matter of time and that it was starting to go.
I'll be replacing the axle bearings and have bought stock in brake cleaner spray cans so I can wash down the third and the inside of the axle housing. Diff gears don't show any damage and the bearings are still smooth so that's a good thing about catching this early since little metal is floating around. I certainly wanted to slap my 14bolt under it now but unfortunately I'm just not quite there. Well, when I sell the cruiser axle at least I can be confident that everything is in good order.
If I got slapped in the face last week, this week I got kicked in the nuts.
So I'm pretty much doing a brake overhaul. Bought a passenger front and a driver rear caliper, ordered some EBC pads for the front and will run some generics out back, swapped all caliper flex lines to stainless braided with the plastic protective covering, and picked up a new master cylinder. Only thing I didn't/won't be getting are rotors. I'll just do a redneck resurfacing with my sander.
Also found that I had the front and rear brake circuits hooked to the wrong side of the master so I'll be redoing some fittings. Not sure how I missed that one but maybe I'm thinking a little clearer this time. While I was painting the new calipers I figured I might as well change out that rear axle seal that is leaking. It would also give me an opportunity to check on the bearing surfaces on my poly axles. Of course I had parked in the exact perfect spot to deny me from removing my driver side axle.
I had a feeling I should have moved it just a little further back when I parked it when tearing into this whole thing but I didn't follow the prompting so I had to do some two steps back stuff and move it back so I could pull out the axle. I had to disassembly the aussie locker to get to the C-clips to remove the axles.
The reason I wanted to check on them is because Poly Performance had a bad batch of axles get out to the public where the bearing surface was not properly hardened and this was around the time I bought mine so I've been a little nervous ever since I found out. Upon first glance it looked like the axles were fine but as I spun them over I got the kick... Yup, I got some from the bad batch. So now I have to yank everything apart, separate my rotors from the axles, pull the third, and wash everything down since there are now metal flakes floating around in hypoid sauce. I'm in contact with Poly and aside from some shipping label issues (which actually got resolved as I've been putting this together) it's going smoothly to get them replaced. I'm dealing with Kurt and he said he pulled a pair and put them next to his desk that are ready to ship back to me once they get mine so turn around wait should be minimal. Still sucks to have the truck down but my sweet
is used to this now and doesn't flinch anymore. Here are the damage pics I took. Looks like I caught them somewhat early.
Driver side is the worst.
Different lighting
Passenger side didn't look bad at first glance but I found evidence it was only a matter of time and that it was starting to go.
I'll be replacing the axle bearings and have bought stock in brake cleaner spray cans so I can wash down the third and the inside of the axle housing. Diff gears don't show any damage and the bearings are still smooth so that's a good thing about catching this early since little metal is floating around. I certainly wanted to slap my 14bolt under it now but unfortunately I'm just not quite there. Well, when I sell the cruiser axle at least I can be confident that everything is in good order.
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Ouch man, at least you arent the only one thats having the axle issue with PP.
So how was the truck braking with the front and rear circuits backwards? What is the difference at the mc between front and rear circuits?
Thanks for humoring my questions
So how was the truck braking with the front and rear circuits backwards? What is the difference at the mc between front and rear circuits?
Thanks for humoring my questions
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Lame!you should just convert to a 14 bolt now and then you could resell the PP axles as brand new!.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
when was the bad batch of PP axles . .? I got mines about dec 2008 or jan 2009 ..
- Thread starter
- #1,538
Ouch man, at least you arent the only one thats having the axle issue with PP.
So how was the truck braking with the front and rear circuits backwards? What is the difference at the mc between front and rear circuits?
Thanks for humoring my questions
Pressure is still pressure. Once I get it back on the road I'll tell you if there was a difference which I think there will be although with better pads and functional calipers I expect to see better braking anyways. I think the rear circuit on this MC keeps a little residual pressure which could explain faster wear on my front pads and maybe some handling traits with slightly dragging brakes. We'll see.
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- Thread starter
- #1,539
Lame! you should just convert to a 14 bolt now and then you could resell the PP axles as brand new!.
Get me a job where you work so I can have more funding for my project like you do.
- Thread starter
- #1,540
The axles affected were for semi-float only. The full-floaters don't have this issue. I bought my semi-floaters on 5/19/09 before my Rubicon trip. Mine had the typical sign of a failing axle seal so if you got leakers, it might be bad news.