Builds Family haulin'

[chicago]

Hey Boots..
This may seem like a REALLY DUMB QUESTION....
For your t case shifters...is that pretty easy to fab up and set up.
For some reason, Im a little intimidated by that part of this process.
Did you use the factory 203 shifter plate?

Thanks...
And any tips you might be able to dole out, Ill take!
Yours came out very NIIIIIIZZZZE!


Keith

 

[boots4]

It's not hard to make your own shifters/linkage but since there are a couple things going on it may take more than one shot to get it where you want it.

My most recent setup incorporates the tips I'd suggest. Use flat plate for the shifter lever rod connections and then weld on the round stock angled how you want it (round stock IMO looks better in the cab). It's easier to drill holes in plate and allows more clearance than round stock down where it's tight. If you can get knobs before then you'll know the clearances needed between the shifters and not have to rework them like I did. Definitely pony up for some rod ends the first time. The connection with them is much more solid and they allow for fine tuning for lining up the levers by lengthening or shortening the rod. I'll have to measure my pivot to rod connection on the shifters because that affects the effort needed and the distance of the throw on the shifter.

You might get your base set up and make one experimental shifter with different holes that allows you to test out what changing the distance from the pivot point does. That way you can find the throw that you like and one that fits in your space constraints.

I wanted to put my shifters in the stock location on my 60. That determined where the base needed to be and make it strong! Use 1/4" if you got it and do some gusseting. I've got mine mounted to my tranny. I got longer bolts for the tranny pan so I'd have some "studs" sticking up to get a nut on (holes go all the way through the lip where the tranny pan mounts). There was also a tapped hole I utilized and that's what determined the shape of my mounting base plus clearance for the levers. Again, my second base was much much sturdier than my first.

I wanted the shifters to be out of the way as much as possible when DD and hwy use so I set them up with them all forward. This will determine if you mount the rod connection to the shifter on the top side of the pivot point or the bottom side. My H/L are on the top and my 2/4wd is on the bottom to get all the levers forward. For my pivot point I just used a grade 8 bolt with the shifters rotating on the shoulder part and not the threads. I use a double nut method to set a preload and then lock it there, much like wheel bearings. I used to have a support piece that runs from the pivot bolt to the hole on the base below it. The bolt is strong enough without the extra support so I left if off this time and that's why there is a third nut on the pivot bolt.

Overall you want to eliminate play in the levers, the base, and the connections so that all the effort goes to actually moving the collars inside the cases. There will be some internal play that you can't eliminate but for the parts that you build, you can. That will make engagement easier, crisp, and more direct.

On a side note, if budget weren't a concern I'd be interested in setting up a cable setup to see the difference. Brokenparts has a slick cable system but it's not setup yet so once he gets his complete I hope to get a chance to feel the difference between the rod linkage vs the cable linkage.

 

[brokenparts]

what are you talking about? It's set up....


























Just happens to be on my work bench.

 

[boots4]

True, I should have been more specific. Besides, it'll handle a little differently under the truck than on the bench. ;p

Quick question, does it allow you to choose which side of the shifter pivot you can hook up your cable?

 

[Dirtgypsy]

what are you talking about? It's set up....


























Just happens to be on my work bench.

your work bench has lower gears than my truck....



build date?

 

[chicago]

Boots!
Thanks for the response!
I guess Ill just have to get to that point before It will really make sense. I get the basic jist of it though.
I like the heim joints though. That seems like it would allow for more adjustability.

Ill post up too as I go!

 

[brokenparts]

True, I should have been more specific. Besides, it'll handle a little differently under the truck than on the bench. ;p

Quick question, does it allow you to choose which side of the shifter pivot you can hook up your cable?

 

[boots4]

Thanks, that does answer my question. The cable ends can only attach to one spot on the shift lever. For me this means if I were to use that exact setup my H/L shifters would be thrown back and my 2/4wd would be thrown forward during normal driving (H-H-2wd). Since I'd rather have all the levers forward when normal driving I'd have to modify where the cable end connects to the shifter to be above the pivot point of the shifter for my two H/L shifters.

 

[92bruiser]

This is one of my favourite buils on Mud, I enjoy reading about what you keep doing to your cruiser.

Warren

 

[boots4]

update

Thanks 92B.

This is mostly for Cruiserdrew as he requested pics of the 14bolt that came out of the stepvan. I yanked it and put it on some jacks and it's been there ever since. It's got dually hubs which gives me 63" wms and all the stepvan stuff I've read leads me to believe it's a 4:10 ratio inside but I haven't pulled the cover to look yet. It still has the monster heavy drum rotors.

This is what is stamped on the housing.

For cruiser time I've noticed that my block heater wasn't working. With it being cold Dora is unhappy and starting isn't as smooth as it used to be. I think cylinder 3 is getting worse. I checked connections to the heater and found nothing and then I checked connections to the plug and found one of the wires out of the terminal so I cleaned it up, put it back in and screwed it down. This morning's starting was the normal 1 chug and start.

I checked the power connections to the tranny control box with a voltmeter and found nothing loose or out of place but the indicator won't light up correctly when selecting the knob through the gears so I'll continue to investigate. The tranny is running warmer than the old tranny which isn't a big deal in the cold but I'll want to look into it when it warms up, maybe I've simply got the cooler lines hooked up backwards. So far the new system is working out pretty well and I am liking it.

I found the swagelok valve that I'm using for a line lock to be leaking. So I took off the lever (just an allen head set screw) to look underneath. There was a swagelok guy here at work in the summer time and I told him I was using one of their valves. I told him it would slowly leak down pressure and he said to take off the lever and tighten up the disc to seat the ball valve a little better. He said they wear over time that to keep their performance just tighten them up. You can see the disc with two holes in it. I'm positive there is a much better tool and a specific tool but I just used some c-clip pliers and tighten it down. Before the lever had very little resistance and now it's tighter. It's now a little tighter than when I first installed this and the leak stopped.

The city got some snow yesterday and I took Dora out for a spin. Traffic was crazy and there was one particular hill that was giving a few cars some problems. I ended up pulling someone out of the way and up the hill to get her on her way. I went back to pull some others that were stuck but they cleared out before I got back so I just went home.

My next project to focus on will be the steering system. New Tie rod, ends (still need to order these and might have to wait a paycheck or two), reseal the steering box, reseal and valve mod to the steering pump.

Also hoping to get some time over at Brokenparts' place this next month to get his rig ready for Moab.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks for that. What you have is not a 14b pick-up dually axle. That would have a 72 inch spacing. It's also pre-88. You have the highly desirable cab and chassis axle that should have a 63 inch spacing. This is the one that will interchange shafts with the single rear wheel axle that is so common. This one is desirable because of the offset hubs, and the 3.5 inch axle tube diameter. It makes a better swap into a Cruiser than a SRW axle or the 14bolt true dually axle.

Anyway, that's the one to have, and can be reworked as shown by Freds40 to run in your 60. I have one of these exact axles. I just got really nice disc brake mounts from RuffStuff. You got lucky there. The disc brake conversion is very straight forward.

 

[boots4]

Thanks for the info, sounds like I'll hold onto it.

 

[brokenparts]

Thanks 92B.

This is mostly for Cruiserdrew as he requested pics of the 14bolt that came out of the stepvan. I yanked it and put it on some jacks and it's been there ever since. It's got dually hubs which gives me 63" wms and all the stepvan stuff I've read leads me to believe it's a 4:10 ratio inside but I haven't pulled the cover to look yet. It still has the monster heavy drum rotors.

This is what is stamped on the housing.

For cruiser time I've noticed that my block heater wasn't working. With it being cold Dora is unhappy and starting isn't as smooth as it used to be. I think cylinder 3 is getting worse. I checked connections to the heater and found nothing and then I checked connections to the plug and found one of the wires out of the terminal so I cleaned it up, put it back in and screwed it down. This morning's starting was the normal 1 chug and start.

I checked the power connections to the tranny control box with a voltmeter and found nothing loose or out of place but the indicator won't light up correctly when selecting the knob through the gears so I'll continue to investigate. The tranny is running warmer than the old tranny which isn't a big deal in the cold but I'll want to look into it when it warms up, maybe I've simply got the cooler lines hooked up backwards. So far the new system is working out pretty well and I am liking it.

I found the swagelok valve that I'm using for a line lock to be leaking. So I took off the lever (just an allen head set screw) to look underneath. There was a swagelok guy here at work in the summer time and I told him I was using one of their valves. I told him it would slowly leak down pressure and he said to take off the lever and tighten up the disc to seat the ball valve a little better. He said they wear over time that to keep their performance just tighten them up. You can see the disc with two holes in it. I'm positive there is a much better tool and a specific tool but I just used some c-clip pliers and tighten it down. Before the lever had very little resistance and now it's tighter. It's now a little tighter than when I first installed this and the leak stopped.

The city got some snow yesterday and I took Dora out for a spin. Traffic was crazy and there was one particular hill that was giving a few cars some problems. I ended up pulling someone out of the way and up the hill to get her on her way. I went back to pull some others that were stuck but they cleared out before I got back so I just went home.

My next project to focus on will be the steering system. New Tie rod, ends (still need to order these and might have to wait a paycheck or two), reseal the steering box, reseal and valve mod to the steering pump.

Also hoping to get some time over at Brokenparts' place this next month to get his rig ready for Moab.

Whenever your ready brother... Just dont let me near those spring perches on the 14 bolt! I'm scared of spring perches!

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Hey Mike thread is looking great.. Haven't checked in in a long time, truck is looking great and all the Rubicon footage is awesome..!

 

[boots4]

Thanks,


Didn't do much this week. I did enlist the help of my neighbor to replace some wire and solder some connections thinking that might help with the tranny control box indicator and t.converter lock up. No luck. I'm really studying the relay used to power the control box and provides grounds, but I'm having a hard time justifying its need. It seems like a terminal block and a fuse would better suit what I want from it so I may just remove the relay (I did test it and it was good). He just had it wired oddly the way it was hooked up or I may have missed something so I'll do some more thinking about it.

I did an oil change including filter.

Spent a day at Brokenparts place mostly hashing out his gameplan for the tranny/tcases crossmember. I did get to cut a hole in his floor. Hoping to help get him ready to wheel Moab this year.

I also swapped the tranny cooler lines which I think was why the new tranny was running warmer than the last one. The top port is the out and the lower port is the return on the 4L80 vintage '96. The fluid was running cooler-heat exchanger-back to tranny. This meant the heat exchanger had the last say and was actually heating up the tranny fluid before it went back in. By swapping now I'm going heat exchanger-cooler-back to tranny which allows the cooler to do the last bit of cooling. Glad it was something simple.

 

[boots4]

After watching a bunch of youtube vids and talking to a couple friends I just finished registration for Cruise Moab 2010. Here are my choices for trails in case anyone from here is going and wanted to join up on a run.

Thursday
First Choice: Behind the Rocks
Second Choice: Golden Spike
Third Choice: Hells Revenge

Friday
First Choice: Moab Rim
Second Choice: Hells Revenge
Third Choice: Gold Bar Rim

Saturday
First Choice: Golden Spike
Second Choice: Poison Spider Mesa
Third Choice: Hells Revenge

 

[jeffsclan]

Here is a suggestion for your Moab trails. You could start on Poison Spider, instead of coming back down the way you go up you can connect to Golden Spike. Stay on that and it turns into Gold Bar Rim. Its an awesome run that will take most of the day. We did this a few years ago, got a late start (10ish) and made it back just before dark. We we lucky and had no break downs and a 2 rig group. We did run into a group of Jeeps at Golden Crack. They were coming in from Gold Bar and were just freaked out about how rough it was. They were all pretty much stock, I think one was a rental. One had a winch and helped to others over the crack. Funny thing is they told us we weren't going to make it out by dark. Later that night we ran into them at the same restaurant. They just couldn't believe it but there is no other way of the mesa.I have no doubt that your rig could walk those trails easily, and probably make better time. We did stop to look at the scenery as well. If I can make it I would love to see your rig in person.

 

[boots4]

We've got friends and family on both sides of the point and we're planning on coming out a couple days before the event to hang out. If you don't make it to the event I'll be in the area if you want to see Dora in person before we head down to Moab on Tuesday.

 

[jeffsclan]

Thanks Boots, That would be cool. I just need to see when it gets closer.

 

[boots4]

update

I've spent the last couple of weeks wrestling with the tranny control box. It was shifting but the LED wasn't working nor was the t.converter lock up. I took out the relay and wired it up and then I lost all shifting capability and had weird combinations on the display. Then I tried more wiring combinations.

I just kept running into walls where I couldn't get the full functionality out of the box. I took the boxes apart (I have a spare box that came with the tranny, basically version 1 and version 2) and traced lines, checked resistance, check continuity and checked volts. I changed my grounding and sourced 12v+ from a different circuit and still no luck. I ran out of ideas so I questioned a friend at work who knows way more about electronics than I do to see what he thought. He took home the spare box to do some testing. All this time Dora has been down because I couldn't get the box to activate the solenoids in the tranny. I thought I had the board inputs and outputs mapped out but after my friend did some testing he found a difference. There are 6 leads to/from the board: E1-E6. He found that E1 was 12v+ and E5 was the board -. I had only one of those right. He said with that he got the indicator to light on the correct number but that's as far as he got. That gave me just enough info to try out some new ideas. I ran power to the board and then tested for volts on the other leads on each switch position. Once I finished that I found a pattern that matched which solenoids were activated to shift the tranny. Lead E3 was for shift solenoid A and E4 was for B.

Shift pattern for the tranny.

1st A-on B-off
2nd A-off B-off
3rd A-off B-on
4th A-on, B-on

E6 is the output to the tranny for the lock up solenoid but still to this day I don't know what E2 does. I tried giving E2 + and then - and both caused more problems so for now E2 and E6 are unhooked meaning I have no lock up operational.

Back of the board

Front of the board

The connector

The frustrating thing is that we know what we need to do in order to get the tranny to shift and to engage the lock up but however this board was designed/modified is making it difficult to figure out so my friend says he'll make me a new one and will design it differently. He is ordering parts this week and hoping to get it put together in a week or two. So for now I'm DD it and the indicator minus the top bar is also functioning, just no lock up.


My old belt tensioner was making lots of noise screeching and was deflecting too much causing my belt to jump the pulley after it. My 8-groove belt was now a 5-groove belt. I finally got a new one ordered for cheap and was surprised to see it is decent quality.

New tensioner on the left, old on the right

Dayco part number. As a precaution I filed the edges of the pulley since I could feel a lip with my finger. I installed it with a new belt and no more jumping and no more screeching.

I've been leaking more coolant from a hose connection on my lower port (block side). The clamp was tight so I decided to take it off and add a lip to the port to give the hose something better to seal against. I made it by welding a bead around the edge and then grinding/filing it down.

Dora also got a well need bath. The small projects continue.