False floor for 200 series (1 Viewer)

[highfructose]

I don’t think this has been covered...

id like to add a false floor to the rear of my 200 series land cruiser (lx570) comparable to what I think the drawer systems bolt to.

I don’t want a drawer system because I want the full third row to be accessible. However, I want a bunch of d rings or tie downs all over the floor so I can strap my tool box, recovery gear, etc.


I don’t want to get in an accident and having my few heavy items flying around the car whacking my family in the head.

does anyone that has done a custom drawer system have advice? Thickness of the plywood, measurements, etc?

thanks

 

[CharlieS]

Goose Gear makes a plate. Several 'mud members have home built similar designs.

Land Cruiser 200 Plate System 2008+

With the Goose Gear Land Cruiser Plate Systems you can now easily install and remove Goose Gear Modules with simple hand tools. This system requires the removal of the rear factory carpet kit. Does not require cutting or drilling of any part of the vehicle. Once the plate is installed you now...

www.goose-gear.com

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I too want to retain the 3rd row seat, and add some tie downs. I just bought an aluminum truck box (only 30" x 12" x 9.5"h). It lines up nicely with the height of the 3rd row seat. Ideally it would be 38" long, but I couldn't find one exactly that size. Currently I have it strapped to the 2 harness points, but I have a few ideas for a more permanent fixture:

1) Use an 80/20 aluminum profile cut to 48" to bridge the two harness points in the rear (I'll probably have to add two new harness points, because I don't think the factory ones will be long enough for the height of the aluminum frame)

2.) Use a track system like the Erickson "O-track" to bridge the two harness points in the rear.

In either case, I might also consider adding a few more mounting points on the track or bar at the same time. May also consider a steel product in place of aluminum for added strength and piece of mind.

 

[highfructose]

Goose Gear makes a plate. Several 'mud members have home built similar designs.

Land Cruiser 200 Plate System 2008+

With the Goose Gear Land Cruiser Plate Systems you can now easily install and remove Goose Gear Modules with simple hand tools. This system requires the removal of the rear factory carpet kit. Does not require cutting or drilling of any part of the vehicle. Once the plate is installed you now...

www.goose-gear.com

That is interesting.

does anyone know if I am right to assume the goose gear plate uses the 3rd row seat anchors, thereby eliminating the possibility of using the 3rd row?

I will email them as well.

Basically, and I don’t know if this is possible, I want a floor that uses some of the anchor points in the back without forbidding the use of the 3rd row...so the floor would either need to be thin enough that the third row still can clamp down...or cut in such a way as to not affect the mounting points for the third row on the floor

 

[CharlieS]

I assume (but can't verify) that you could just cut a hole where the third row mounts go on whatever you fabricate. I have rear cargo boxes (Landshark Reef), not a plate, so can't really say.

Hopefully some of the folks that have build home made versions of this style of plate will reply.

 

[highfructose]

I too want to retain the 3rd row seat, and add some tie downs. I just bought an aluminum truck box (only 30" x 12" x 9.5"h). It lines up nicely with the height of the 3rd row seat. Ideally it would be 38" long, but I couldn't find one exactly that size. Currently I have it strapped to the 2 harness points, but I have a few ideas for a more permanent fixture:

1) Use an 80/20 aluminum profile cut to 48" to bridge the two harness points in the rear (I'll probably have to add two new harness points, because I don't think the factory ones will be long enough for the height of the aluminum frame)
View attachment 2574148
2.) Use a track system like the Erickson "O-track" to bridge the two harness points in the rear.

In either case, I might also consider adding a few more mounting points on the track or bar at the same time. May also consider a steel product in place of aluminum for added strength and piece of mind.

Would you happen to have a link to the tool box you ended up using?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Would you happen to have a link to the tool box you ended up using?

It's from Princess Auto in Canada:

https://www.princessauto.com/en/30-in-aluminum-truck-box/product/PA0008489718

Harbor Freight in 'merica is like Princess Auto in Canada.

 

[sdnative]

Would you happen to have a link to the tool box you ended up using?

I know not exactly what you are looking for, but I used this toolbox in my 80, and I assume it would fit in the 200 as well. Still would allow use of one seat.

Truck Boxes

Offering the best in security, nothing is getting into a WEATHER GUARD® truck tool box

www.weatherguard.com

 

[highfructose]

Update:
Goosegear plate requires removal of 3rd row. So it’s not possible to put the plate in and still be able to use the seats.

 

[sdnative]

There is a thread somewhere about storage solutions behind the 3rd row seat. Maybe some ideas in there?

 

[CharlieS]

Update:
Goosegear plate requires removal of 3rd row. So it’s not possible to put the plate in and still be able to use the seats.

So use the concept, and adjust the execution to meet your needs. Ultimately, it is a sheet of plywood attached to the floor, not a terribly complex project.

Here is one example I found in a SEARCH: user @eatSleepWoof made a platform out of 3/4" ply for lashing gear down. You could adjust the size to fit around your seats (like the shape of an OEM cargo mat) and adjust by anchoring to different points (like where the factory tie down anchors are attached, for example). Cut out holes appropriate to allow the latching legs on the 3rd row seats to pass through. You could use a factory cargo mat as a template.

Builds - eatSleepWoof's '14 LX

Back in the saddle and looking good!

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Folks on this forum have taken the base plate idea further than I have, by making cut outs for the 3rd row seat hardware/latches. That allows for the seats to still be useable, as they essentially latch "through" the baseplate. That would give OP everything he's looking for.

 

[highfructose]

Folks on this forum have taken the base plate idea further than I have, by making cut outs for the 3rd row seat hardware/latches. That allows for the seats to still be useable, as they essentially latch "through" the baseplate. That would give OP everything he's looking for.

did they use the 3rd row floor hardware to bolt the base plate down but leave some area for the seat hardware to fit in?

or did they leave the 3rd row hardware completely open and bolt it down some place else?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

did they use the 3rd row floor hardware to bolt the base plate down but leave some area for the seat hardware to fit in?

or did they leave the 3rd row hardware completely open and bolt it down some place else?

You'd have to find those posts and see. I don't remember the details.

 

[highfructose]

You'd have to find those posts and see. I don't remember the details.

I probably should have googled myself but I was at work...

I think I found the build you’re referencing though

My drawer/fridge slide mod

Purchased the rig with dual ARB drawers. Loved the fit and finish but 3rd row is too valuable and the fridge was too high. I sold them off and started making plans for a different setup which would allow for relatively painless install/removal depending on my needs. I could have built my own...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I probably should have googled myself but I was at work...

I think I found the build you’re referencing though

My drawer/fridge slide mod

Purchased the rig with dual ARB drawers. Loved the fit and finish but 3rd row is too valuable and the fridge was too high. I sold them off and started making plans for a different setup which would allow for relatively painless install/removal depending on my needs. I could have built my own...

forum.ih8mud.com

That's one of them, yes. I think there's at least one more variation floating around here somewhere.

 

[highfructose]

I think this might fit in the space behind the third row. I’d lose full recline on the third row and I’d need to cut the corners of the box to go around the 3rd row “hinges” though.

 

[mthomp6]

check this post: False floor fridge install - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/false-floor-fridge-install.1055512/#post-12395154

 

[highfructose]

the hatch is 48” wide, the depth to the seat bracket is 12”, and the height is 9” or so with the rear seats folded down.

I think this 48x12x10 box might be the perfect fit to bolt to the rear tie downs and maximize storage while still keeping access to the third row.


Lund 74448FM Black 48" Aluminum Diamond Plated Full Lid Flush Mount Box Amazon product ASIN B009VZX8W2

 

[highfructose]

Pardon the mess in the truck...I just threw everything out of the way to test fitment.

my overarching goal was to be able to “strap down” equipment into the back of the 200 without losing useability of the 3rd row.

I may have found an easy solution for storage behind the 3rd row.

It appears to be a 48” aluminum side mount truck box from various manufacturers (craftsman, kobalt, better built) is close to a perfect fit for storage in the back of a 200 behind the third row. Even with 4 max trax on top of it, you still have full recline of the 3rd row.

I think I’ll be able to bolt this down by drilling holes in the bottom of it and screwing it directly into the rear most tie down d rings (hopefully). I’ll probably velcro my recovery straps and soft shackles to the open space on the outside at the bottom of the box, drill some mounting points into the lid for my max trax, and explore a means of bolting my hilift to the top of the max trax.