Failed emissions, poor idle, high in hydro carbons, temp spikes (1 Viewer)

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After a drain & fill the engine slowly purges all the trapped air over a few weeks and the overflow tank coolant level will continue to slowly drop during that time. Normally that would be a cause for alarm- but it in this case it's normal.

So you can't use the overflow tank coolant levels in the morning as an indicator of lost coolant until all the air is out - and that can take a long time.

Draining and changing coolant never helped an engine run cooler. Personally I wouldn't do that until the loss of coolant was determined. It will just create another unknown variable.
 
After a drain & fill the engine slowly purges all the trapped air over a few weeks and the overflow tank coolant level will continue to slowly drop during that time. Normally that would be a cause for alarm- but it in this case it's normal.

So you can't use the overflow tank coolant levels in the morning as an indicator of lost coolant until all the air is out - and that can take a long time.

Draining and changing coolant never helped an engine run cooler. Personally I wouldn't do that until the loss of coolant was determined. It will just create another unknown variable.
So you're just saying to top it off in the rad, and the overflow tank? How much will I lose when I pop the thermostat housing off and replace that guy?
 
Is ok to change the thermostat. You'll lose all the coolant in the big rad inlet hose and that air gap will purge to the radiator on start up (but won't get recirculated). If the radiator end of the inlet hose is released first, you can drain it into a container without spilling too much.
 
Is ok to change the thermostat. You'll lose all the coolant in the big rad inlet hose and that air gap will purge to the radiator on start up (but won't get recirculated). If the radiator end of the inlet hose is released first, you can drain it into a container without spilling too much.
Oh okay, cool. I'll do that. Thanks! Any tips for burping the system?
 
The main thing, with 2F's anyway, is to have the truck on an uphill slope
to try and get the radiator cap to be the highest point in the entire system
then, after it's most of the way full, start the truck with this attached to
the radiator and keep it full with coolant until all the air bubbles have
burped out. I think you should turn the heater on as well.

That link is just a general "see what I'm talking about" link...
I didn't check to see if that particular one works with our radiators.
Others may have a specific company to suggest for our application.
 

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