Factory roof rack removal

[boombapslappy]

Took my OEM rack off today. No issues, but did have water collected on the passenger side middle foot, rear bolt. All 11 other locations were dry. Not rusted, just a half inch of water. Mine was Torx40 as well.

Never really intended to take it off, but have a couple of interior projects that need done and I can't get it in the garage. Tried 18psi and lifting the garage door as high as it will go with no luck.

 

[boombapslappy]

I'll add, this is off the Cruiser, not the LX. My 2000 Cruiser has three attachment points on either side. The 8x1.25x20mm bolt works well. I added a stainless washer, a rubber washer, and silicone. I have not bothered to order covers yet. I may put the rack back on so I'll wait until I make that decision.

My LX has two attachment points on either side. While I have not tried to remove the rack, I did lift one of the covers and it was much easier to remove than on the cruiser. On the Toyota, I had to use a small flat screwdriver to lift an edge. After that, it came out with a tug once I got a finger under it. The LX cover came off, what could be considered, a little too easily.

 

[Swampdawg1]

Like many others, I have a rack with 3 connection spots on each side. The rack was easy to remove, but the center foot had water in both sides and the bolts will not come out. I have been trying with an extractor with no luck yet.

Pretty sure I am going to have to cut them off. My intent with removing the rack was to check for leaks and add silicone to the bolts to eliminate the rack in my continual quest to trace down my leaks (really hoping to avoid windshield replacement). I was planning to put the rack back on once I added silicone. My question is: has anyone reinstalled the OEM rack with 6 connection points and just left the center feet out completely? I know this will make it weaker, but my thought is that if the cross bars are placed more close to the ends, the load capacity may not be as badly compromised.

 

[HelthInsXpert]

For that center section if you have a rusted bolt, instead of an extractor take a Chisel or drift (as sharp as possible). Hold at a 45 degree angle to the face of the bolt and hit it with a heavy hammer. It will bite into the bolt face and eventually start turning. This is how I take off the big lock nut on the axle hubs also without buying an $80 socket that I will never use for anything else.

 

[Swampdawg1]

For that center section if you have a rusted bolt, instead of an extractor take a Chisel or drift (as sharp as possible). Hold at a 45 degree angle to the face of the bolt and hit it with a heavy hammer. It will bite into the bolt face and eventually start turning. This is how I take off the big lock nut on the axle hubs also without buying an $80 socket that I will never use for anything else.

I'll give this a shot later today, thanks

 

[nakman]

I'll give this a shot later today, thanks

If that doesn't work, what I'd probably do next is just get a cheater bar and break the bolt. then remove the rack piece and drill out the broken bolt ultimately cleaning up the hole with a tap. I've got a video on this if you've never done it before... not that difficult of a job to restore those threads to workable again.

 

[Swampdawg1]

If that doesn't work, what I'd probably do next is just get a cheater bar and break the bolt. then remove the rack piece and drill out the broken bolt ultimately cleaning up the hole with a tap. I've got a video on this if you've never done it before... not that difficult of a job to restore those threads to workable again.

Unfortunately the “bolt” is actually a screw that takes a Torx bit so I can’t really get any purchase on it.

 

[nakman]

Unfortunately the “bolt” is actually a screw that takes a Torx bit so I can’t really get any purchase on it.

So you already soaked this with PB Blaster right? You should be able to get a torx driver that mates to your socket set. Push down super hard when you twist it so it doesn't slip in there and strip it out. But if you strip it, not a big deal as that wallered out hole is perfectly on center for your drill. Once you drill through the head of the bolt you should be able to lift the part off, then deal with the rest of the rusty bolt.

 

[Swampdawg1]

So you already soaked this with PB Blaster right? You should be able to get a torx driver that mates to your socket set. Push down super hard when you twist it so it doesn't slip in there and strip it out. But if you strip it, not a big deal as that wallered out hole is perfectly on center for your drill. Once you drill through the head of the bolt you should be able to lift the part off, then deal with the rest of the rusty bolt.

Yeah I let it soak overnight and will try it again this afternoon. I have the Torx driver but the screws are badly stripped. I may have to try as you said

 

[Live to Ski]

Try impact tool thingy (where u hit it w a hammer)?

 

[Swampdawg1]

Try impact tool thingy (where u hit it w a hammer)?

I just wound up cutting the damned things off.

 

[GTV]

Doing a roof rack delete. Read some threads, got my 75557-60010’s and found these huge gaps up front. WTF? What to do now... Put the rack back on or continue with removal and leave these gaps open until I figure out what is going on here? I *think* either the roof molding or the windshield side moldings have been cut?

 

[GTV]

Ok, so I'm an idiot that missed the few posts in this thread pertaining to my exact issue. Thought this was gonna be simple so I breezed through it

So, which parts need to be longer to close the gap? Is it:

$150 each, ouch
75534-60021
75533-60031

Or: $83 each and I bet I bought $60 of covers for nothing
75505-60020
75506-60020

 

[Swampdawg1]

Ok, so I'm an idiot that missed the few posts in this thread pertaining to my exact issue. Thought this was gonna be simple so I breezed through it

So, which parts need to be longer to close the gap? Is it:

$150 each, ouch
75534-60021
75533-60031

Or: $83 each and I bet I bought $60 of covers for nothing
75505-60020
75506-60020

I’d go with the black duck tape.

 

[LXKevin]

[

 

[hoser]

Ok, so I'm an idiot that missed the few posts in this thread pertaining to my exact issue. Thought this was gonna be simple so I breezed through it

So, which parts need to be longer to close the gap? Is it:

$150 each, ouch
75534-60021
75533-60031

Or: $83 each and I bet I bought $60 of covers for nothing
75505-60020
75506-60020

It looks like the $150 ones were cut short by a windshield installer? Usually, they don't terminate that abrupt.

 

[GTV]

It looks like the $150 ones were cut short by a windshield installer? Usually, they don't terminate that abrupt.

I thought it was cut as well until I looked back at post 193. Not just me.

Could you do me a favor and measure how far back your windshield molding goes from the top of the windshield? From the pic your windshield molding definitely looks longer than mine but the roof molding may be longer as well.

 

[DIFF LOCK]

I thought it was cut as well until I looked back at post 193. Not just me.

Could you do me a favor and measure how far back your windshield molding goes from the top of the windshield? From the pic your windshield molding definitely looks longer than mine but the roof molding may be longer as well.

Resuscitating an old thread. First, thanks for the guidance throughout this process; it made it super easy. I have a 2004 with three mounting points per side and non-Torx head bolts (req'd a 12mm socket). Here are pics for reference. All bolts backed out easily. All my moldings are in-tact and seem to be the correct length, so looking to pick up some new bolts to reseat in the holes and then six 75557-60010 covers to close things back up. Lastly, I'll need to clean up the paint where the rack mounts sat for 17 years.

 

[DIFF LOCK]

Just an update.

I ordered stainless steel M8-1.25 x 20mm button head socket cap screws for their lower profile and combined these with rubber washers to fill in 10 of the 12 threaded holes. A 5mm allen wrench is what you'll need to tighten them down. For the remaining two holes (middle mounting point, forward-most hole), they're threaded, but nothing seems to actually thread in fully. I just so happened to have something on-hand that I thought "what the hell, I'll try it" and it worked like a charm. They're Honda part # 91560-SZW-003, CLIP, DOOR LINING. Seriously, they work so good that I almost wish I just bought 12 of them and used these instead of screws. Fitment was great (tight and secure!), they're low profile for clearance purposes, and they have enough of a head on them that you could easily remove them with a trim removal tool if you ever decide to go back to the OEM roof rack.

Link to button head socket screws on AMZN.

 

[nakman]

I would worry that the plastic will crack and get brittle in the sun, it will also shrink in the cold. It might work well today but I don't think that's a good long term fix if your goal is to just plug those holes. The rubber washers & bolts should be much more long term.