Factory roof rack removal

[Luckymudder]

pictures are in no particular order. i was able to take the rails off with a torx t40. i thought it was a t35 for a second, but it was a t40. was really very easy. hardest part was lifting off the covers to get to the bolts. my bolts were not rusted or nasty at all.
i bought new bolts from ace hardware and got a metal washer and fiber washer on there, and used some blue rtv. called toyota, the rectangular access covers are not sold separately from the gutter trim assembly. you have to buy the whole thing at like $110 each. until i figure something besides dropping $220 for four access covers, blue painters tape will do! going to get my roof painted white within the month to address blistering clear coat and to subtly trick it out.

Thanks everyone for their advice!

 

[Dwight S]

Order four of these and snap them in. They should work.

75557-60010 - Moulding Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Moulding (7555760010) For Your

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

 

[LARRYG36]

Heres how I had to take of the center mounts because the screws were rusted.

 

[Dwight S]

Heres how I had to take of the center mounts because the screws were rusted.View attachment 2053851View attachment 2053852View attachment 2053853

You’re not the only one who had to come up with extreme measures to remove that center leg and bolts. I drilled around the bolt heads and pried it up. Once I had the plastic leg out of the way, I could put vice grips on the bolt and twist it out.

 

[gatormark91]

Heres how I had to take of the center mounts because the screws were rusted.View attachment 2053851View attachment 2053852View attachment 2053853

The bolt head metal is really soft, and they are not torqued very tight. Just drill into them with a drill bit and hit them with an EZ-out. I've done two racks this way, rusted to hell bolt heads, no issues

 

[Luckymudder]

Toyota got these in in less than 24 hours. Project complete!

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Do any of you who removed your rack have still have it handy?

Specifically, the 3 legged, long version roof rack that mounted at the most forward mount (A), abeam the sunroof and the two rear most mounts (C&D)

I currently have the stock ‘07 LX rack that only has two legs and mounts to the second (B) and fourth (D) mounting points but am in need of longer rack.

 

[bouncylexus]

Fellas-

The rubbery-plastic-ish bottom foot on the roof racks... is it the same on the LX to the LC? Also, anyone have the Toy PN's for this? I need the 4 corners if it's the same and in black.

Painted my LX feet and they look great in terms of color but in general the parts are old and decrepit.
View attachment 679994

Did you find the part number for these?

 

[Luckymudder]

Fab up some aluminum angle and forget about OEM sun rotted plastic.

 

[nothappening]

I thought I would throw mine into the mix. My middle section was slightly different than what I had seen posted, and was just a normal bolt instead of Torx. The middle was not attached via a keyhole of sorts, it simply had a plastic cover that I popped off and revealed the one bolt:

The small channel that is left exposed, I remember reading that it is not necessary to do anything with that exposure as it is not a point of leaking. The passenger side molding is not seated as well as the driver's side, would this be any cause for concern? It's not flapping in the wind, but near the top it does protrude a bit more than the driver's side:

 

[Pskhaat]

Middle sections of my 06. On both sides the fore holes (though threaded) simply don't accept any of a myriad of 8mmx1.25 bolts.

Are these holes threaded differently?

 

[Pskhaat]

Middle sections of my 06. On both sides the fore holes (though threaded) simply don't

Snow is coming . Anyone else have a problem with these holes?

 

[civil offroad]

@Pskhaat Have you tried putting a tap through the hole? Ive had a couple bolts like that where Ive needed to get the tap in there to get the threads realigned. Also, place some silicone on the treads just for good measure. Good Luck

 

[nothappening]

Snow is coming . Anyone else have a problem with these holes?

I had one bolt that was an absolute bitch to get back in. I think I know what you're referring to and I feel fortunate that I was able to get it started back on the threads. I think you may have to go down the road @civil offroad suggested.

 

[pili]

Posting here because this seems like the best thread...a little confused by all the different variations.

I have an 03 LX with the shorter rack...would like to swap in a longer version off a LC to bring the front load bar forward, making a more stable mount for my RTT. Can't justify an aftermarket rack right now with all of the other things that need doing.

In theory, I should be able to just cut the gutter, opening the space for the front most bolts, and pop on a longer 3 point oem rack? Is this correct?

 

[jlm43]

Just wanted to add a little to this old thread. I recently removed my own rack and it went relatively smooth due to the info here. One thing I did differently was to slide the cover strip forward to remove it. The first step was to pick up on the back until the clip either unclips or breaks free from the roof. Then, while I was sliding it forward, I’d release the retaining clips as they became visible in the open slots. Here are some pictures of the clips so you know what you’re dealing with.

 

[jlm43]

Adding a little more rather than starting a new thread. Not liking the gutter gap and not wanting to spend $25 on plastic cover strips, I decided to make my own strips. I cut some strips from .032” aluminum, roughly 1” by 17”, covered them in shrink wrap, slid them in place and adhered them with some sealant. Overall, I think they came out pretty good.

 

[boombapslappy]

Took my OEM rack off today. No issues, but did have water collected on the passenger side middle foot, rear bolt. All 11 other locations were dry. Not rusted, just a half inch of water. Mine was Torx40 as well.

Never really intended to take it off, but have a couple of interior projects that need done and I can't get it in the garage. Tried 18psi and lifting the garage door as high as it will go with no luck.

 

[boombapslappy]

I'll add, this is off the Cruiser, not the LX. My 2000 Cruiser has three attachment points on either side. The 8x1.25x20mm bolt works well. I added a stainless washer, a rubber washer, and silicone. I have not bothered to order covers yet. I may put the rack back on so I'll wait until I make that decision.

My LX has two attachment points on either side. While I have not tried to remove the rack, I did lift one of the covers and it was much easier to remove than on the cruiser. On the Toyota, I had to use a small flat screwdriver to lift an edge. After that, it came out with a tug once I got a finger under it. The LX cover came off, what could be considered, a little too easily.

 

[Swampdawg1]

Like many others, I have a rack with 3 connection spots on each side. The rack was easy to remove, but the center foot had water in both sides and the bolts will not come out. I have been trying with an extractor with no luck yet.

Pretty sure I am going to have to cut them off. My intent with removing the rack was to check for leaks and add silicone to the bolts to eliminate the rack in my continual quest to trace down my leaks (really hoping to avoid windshield replacement). I was planning to put the rack back on once I added silicone. My question is: has anyone reinstalled the OEM rack with 6 connection points and just left the center feet out completely? I know this will make it weaker, but my thought is that if the cross bars are placed more close to the ends, the load capacity may not be as badly compromised.