Factory E- Locker Troubleshooting (1 Viewer)

[Box Rocket]

Was in Moab over the weekend. I engaged my rear locker a number of times during the weekend and engaged the front locker twice. The first time it worked just fine. The next time I was on the waterfall on Gold Bar Rim and got my rear bumper wedged on a rock at the bottom of the obstacle and couldn't back up. The rear tires didn't have a lot of traction so I engaged both lockers so the front could pull the truck off the rock, but it wouldn't engage. Ended up winching about 2' to get the bumper off the rock and then drove the obstacle just fine.

I have never had any issues with the factory e-lockers so I've never had to mess with them. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet, but I am looking for suggestions on where to start, or what the the possible problems could be. Might help speed up the process when I get into the garage and start troubleshooting. Any ideas from those who have dealt with the elockers?

 

[b16]

Did you try it again when on the ground? Doesn't one wheel need to slip for it to engage?

 

[Box Rocket]

Did you try it again when on the ground? Doesn't one wheel need to slip for it to engage?

Yes I did. Also in the video you can see I had 3 of the 4 wheels spinning. Did that a few times trying to get it to lock before winching.
But technically, no a wheel doesn’t need to be spinning for it to engage.

 

[FJBen]

The electric motor basically turns a cog that loads up a spring that allows it to push the collar over to lock the diff. The spring is there because the "cogs" or teeth don't always line up. That's why usually slipping the rear tire, or driving in an arc on flat ground allows it to lock.

When the rear doesn't lock, the front won't lock. The front is able to lock while the rear is still trying to lock. It won't however lock by itself without the rear energizing first. Thanks for the reminder @ppc

usually the rear gets all mucked up with road gunk and works slower and slower as the grease gets bad and then it won't lock.

Possible Electrical issue:
motor bad
wiring bad

You can test with a 9v battery on the leads to see if the electical motor is spinning or not with it still on the rig. Don't hold the power to it very long or else you will burn up the motor.

Great picture from mud:

You can also jack up the rear end and spin one tire to see if it with make it lock. You can manually move the shift fork as well to make sure nothing is bound up there. Sometimes that grease in the acuator gets hard and needs cleaned out.

Here's picture of the "cogs" that need to line up for the shift collar to slide over. Makes sense on why you need to slip the tires or drive in an ARC. I would lock before obstacles on my 80 so I didn't get stuck in a spot where they wouldn't line up.

Ironically I've had more issues with factory E-lockers than ARB's...go figure. They were due to the actuators going bad. I don't believe you can buy the actuator separately either.

 

[Box Rocket]

The electric motor basically turns a cog that loads up a spring that allows it to push the collar over to lock the diff. The spring is there because the "cogs" or teeth don't always line up. That's why usually slipping the rear tire, or driving in an arc on flat ground allows it to lock.

When the rear doesn't lock, the front won't lock.

usually the rear gets all mucked up with road gunk and works slower and slower as the grease gets bad and then it won't lock.

Possible Electrical issue:
motor bad
wiring bad

You can test with a 9v battery on the leads to see if the electical motor is spinning or not with it still on the rig. Don't hold the power to it very long or else you will burn up the motor.

Great picture from mud:

You can also jack up the rear end and spin one tire to see if it with make it lock. You can manually move the shift fork as well to make sure nothing is bound up there. Sometimes that grease in the acuator gets hard and needs cleaned out.

Here's picture of the "cogs" that need to line up for the shift collar to slide over. Makes sense on why you need to slip the tires or drive in an ARC. I would lock before obstacles on my 80 so I didn't get stuck in a spot where they wouldn't line up.

Ironically I've had more issues with factory E-lockers than ARB's...go figure. They were due to the actuators going bad. I don't believe you can buy the actuator separately either.

Thanks for this response. very helpful

 

[ppc]

"When the rear doesn't lock, the front won't lock."

That is not a true statement. Only the center needs to be locked and confirmed before either rear or front can attempt/energized to lock. Due to the mechanics of the dash switch front can't be locked independently. The front can lock with the rear still attempting to lock.

 

[FJBen]

"When the rear doesn't lock, the front won't lock."

That is not a true statement. Only the center needs to be locked and confirmed before either rear or front can attempt/energized to lock. Due to the mechanics of the dash switch front can't be locked independently. The front can lock with the rear still attempting to lock.

You are correct it just needs to be energized to lock and the front will lock. Not sure why I forgot that. I remember my 80's would only lock the front and the rears would stick. Good catch! I will fix that!

However it seems strange that neither locked engaged. is that correct @Box Rocket ?
Do you have a CDL switch?

 

[landcrshr]

The diff-lock ECU has a time-out feature where if it doesn't see that the actuator has moved, it will cut power to the actuator motor after about 6 seconds. The switch then needs to be cycled again. Just something to keep in mind while trouble-shooting. HTH.

 

[OREGON85]

Cruiser Outfitters has actuators à la carte. $325 for front, $475 for rear.

 

[Box Rocket]

You are correct it just needs to be energized to lock and the front will lock. Not sure why I forgot that. I remember my 80's would only lock the front and the rears would stick. Good catch! I will fix that!

However it seems strange that neither locked engaged. is that correct @Box Rocket ?
Do you have a CDL switch?

No the rear seemed to lock just fine, just not the front. Yes I have a CDL switch and it was locked

 

[FJBen]

No the rear seemed to lock just fine, just not the front. Yes I have a CDL switch and it was locked

Yeah I would start with testing the actuator then with a 9v and feeling if it's bound up. The front is much finer splined and always seems to engage quicker. The rear locking means the CDL and back to switch is probably OK. Possible actuator or wiring harness to actuator or maybe sensors on actuator bad.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Good chance unless you have extended your actuator vents lines they have been contaminated. In my case it was from washing the 80 too much. Either way you should extend your actuator vents lines once you are operational again.

 

[Box Rocket]

Good chance unless you have extended your actuator vents lines they have been contaminated. In my case it was from washing the 80 too much. Either way you should extend your actuator vents lines once you are operational again.

I'll check those too. Thanks

 

[RFB]

thank God for this post I replaced fr/rear elockers simply because front did exact same, after replacement same thing still.