F135 Progress (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CruisinMT
- Start date
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Yes but it is a pain to get it in there if I recall correctly. Why not drop it in with everything in place?
If you're going to bolt on the tranny after you mount the engine, put the fork in before you do the tranny. It's just a lot easier.
- Thread starter
- #24
I got everything in and hooked up, I have to to get e new brass fitting that goes to my oil port on the blovck i snapped it off yesterday. Other than that it is all ready to go just need fluids. I should hopefully have it running tomorrow night. Pictures to come.
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- #25
I got it up and running tonight pretty much first try. I do have one leak and would like to know how to fix it. THe rear bottom of my side panel is leaking pretty steady. I put gasket sealant on it too when I put it back together, I dont know what to do. Also I need a better headlight wiring schematic too if anyone has one.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
I'm no expert by any means, but did you use generic sealant, or the Toyota FIPG?
I've had amazing luck with the Toyota FIPG. I think you could build an entire vehicle out of the stuff.
Dan
I've had amazing luck with the Toyota FIPG. I think you could build an entire vehicle out of the stuff.
Dan
- Thread starter
- #28
I used a high tack gasket stuff. it was thin and i just painted it on both sides of the gasket. i loosened it up and tried to get some RTV in the problem area I will see if it holds up tonight when I go on it's first test drive maybe it will seal better after i run it for a while and get her good and warmed up.
- Thread starter
- #29
well I started her up at lunch and decided to take her to town only 3miles to work. Runs good but now the front half of the side panel is leaking I guess I will tighten the bolts up a little and see how it goes from there.
I am sure you are aware but be very, very careful when tightening those bolts. Turns out it doesn't take much to break 'em. I busted the head off the one in the very back middle position. "Fortunately" my engine was on it's way out so I had to rebuild the engine anyway - otherwise there was no way I was getting it out w/o pulling the block - not enough room back there to get an EZ Out into it, and it was broken flush with the block.
When I did mine I used a cheap replacement cork gasket and some RTV and it sealed up nicely. When you pull it off you might want to check it closely to make sure there is no old gasket or material still stuck on there keeping the new gasket from seating flush against the panel and/or block.
When I did mine I used a cheap replacement cork gasket and some RTV and it sealed up nicely. When you pull it off you might want to check it closely to make sure there is no old gasket or material still stuck on there keeping the new gasket from seating flush against the panel and/or block.
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- #31
I ran some RTV along the bottom seam. For some reason when I poulle dinto my driveway tonight it flooded out and died I couldn't get it started again but I didn't try very hard either. I still need to readjust my valves and Fine tune some other things, It did hiccup a little while driving. I'll get tot he rest of it tomorrow night. I'm ready to be done messing with it for a while.
Just caught this build up.. I recommend pulling the side cover off and clean up the gasket/cover with solvent/degreaser. Use a good quality permatex or the toyota sealant and follow the directions, if you don't seal this up good it will plague you forever..
Take a break, do it right.
Flooding.. is your float adjusted right..?
Just for fun, put a pressure gauge on there and check the oil pressure- make sure the distributor if fully engaged..
Take a break, do it right.
Flooding.. is your float adjusted right..?
Just for fun, put a pressure gauge on there and check the oil pressure- make sure the distributor if fully engaged..
Oh yeah, make sure your carb isn't icing up, if you butterfly valve sticks open then it won't heat the carb.
- Thread starter
- #34
It fired right up this morning, but ran a little rough I'm sure part of it has to do with my valves needing adjusted but my carb did have frost on it when i shut it off. I'm also pretty sure I have a cpl small leaks on my manifold. I just dont want to snap off one of my bolts. When tightening the manifold bolts should you work end to end or middle to end?
- Thread starter
- #35
i got to tinkering on my lunch break and got it running pretty smooth with an intermitant miss. My vacuum gauge shows a slight wiggle between 21 and 22 inches. i want it to be dead still though. i know my manifold bolts are pretty damn tight anywhere else I should look for a vacuum leak? I also noticed that my float level is a little above the line as well as my carb looked a little wet. Also does anyone have any tips on tightening the bolts that attach the down pipe to the ex manifold? Its a bitch to get at and those bolts are pretty old. TIA guys and I will take some pictures tonight since i haven't got any new ones up yet.
X2 on Kief's #32, if you haven't already.
If you use a cork gasket, give it a good oil rubbing before putting it back on.
Not sure how convenient it'd be to put new bolts back in the exh manifold where it hooks up to the down pipe. Got your donut gasket in?? If you break one of those bolts off, mmmm...
If you use a cork gasket, give it a good oil rubbing before putting it back on.
Not sure how convenient it'd be to put new bolts back in the exh manifold where it hooks up to the down pipe. Got your donut gasket in?? If you break one of those bolts off, mmmm...
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I don't know if it was a stock part, or just a common mod from the 'old' days but most of the F135 manifold sets I have come across have had long shouldered BRASS nuts to pull the flange up tight to the manifold. These seem to be easier to get a stubby open end wrench on, and less likely to damage the manfold studs.
As far the intermittent pulse between 21-22", that is one of the hardest pulses to eliminate. By the time you've reached 21, you've pretty much ruled out manifold leaks, so whatever method you used, just keep up on your scheduled retorque and move on.
Spot-on valve adjustment may require minor deviations from factory specs, especially with a different cam.
Glad this worked out for you, and glad I could help.
Best
Mark A.
As far the intermittent pulse between 21-22", that is one of the hardest pulses to eliminate. By the time you've reached 21, you've pretty much ruled out manifold leaks, so whatever method you used, just keep up on your scheduled retorque and move on.
Spot-on valve adjustment may require minor deviations from factory specs, especially with a different cam.
Glad this worked out for you, and glad I could help.
Best
Mark A.
- Thread starter
- #39
i got the side panel to stop leaking now I'm going to finalize my valve adjustments and figure out why my fuel level is so high in my carb. Can I get a new top gasket for my d-40 Carb from Napa or will I have to buy from someone on here?
