F(Z)J80 v8 (1 Viewer)

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1 QUESTION
WHY DID U CUT AND TRUN THE KNUCKLE ?
 
1 QUESTION
WHY DID U CUT AND TRUN THE KNUCKLE ?


FIX CASTOR! :)



I have a major OCD problem. Never an issue accept when I am in a hurry. Oh well, let the OCD flow any ways.


front axle parts all cleaned up, painted and ready to install. I wire brushed all this stuff, brutal task on the die grinder, and then primed and painted. New OEM inner axle seals and knuckle wiper/seal. Bearings all seem fine after cleaning, same for seals. Cut down the steering arms to get rid of the arms behind the axle I no longer need.

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Just got this sucker yesterday, it is massive.

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Had hoped I could maybe fit it like this

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doesn't really work though

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So I yanked my battery and tray and am going to have to move it. Only place I really have to move it is to the bed where my 2nd battery is going. My main battery has been kind of weak when it is cold so I bought a new Odyssey for my main. Been wanting to clean up my wiring for awhile anyways, guess this will be the time. Any ways, here is how I am mounting the massive 4" air box. By the way, this is the size recommended by the manufacturer of the air box, Unique Metal Products or UMP.

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Going to keep my MAF and it is 3.5" Air box is 4". So I ordered up a few more fittings to plumb this sucker. The ole Chevy v8 should breath well with this thing!

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Cheers
 
Front axle is all back together. Like I say OCD slows me down. All the cleaning and painting really slowed me down. Ended up not having to buy any new bearings or seals for the soupy side. Just lot's of cleaning, bearings and seals all seemed ok. All parts cleaned individually and painted individually. Steering stops welded back on the axle too. New brakes in front too with 100 series pads. I am working on the Y-link now, should have that done tonight.

Next up is Jason's bumper. I will be starting on that tomorrow. Friday a buddy is coming over and will stay the night. We will see if we can bang out the platform in the back Friday night and Saturday morning. He is a carpenter by trade so it should go fast.

Doubt I will get to test drive it until next week. With the battery all torn out I just don't feel like putting it all back in for a test drive and then tear it all back out again. Ordered up some battery terminal splitter post things, whatever you call them. Rather than run all my wires to the back where the main battery is going I think I will just run a hot and ground up to the engine bay and pick everything up that way. Way easier and faster.

Got a handful of little things to do in the next week but the air box, platform in back and bumper are my focus and bigger jobs now.

Cheers
 
happy

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Y-link dramas

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Perhaps Jose didn't have any issues because he is not at 4.5* of caster. Obviously I have issues. Ordering up the GM offset tres in about 6hrs.

Cheers
 
Front axle is all back together. Like I say OCD slows me down. All the cleaning and painting really slowed me down. Ended up not having to buy any new bearings or seals for the soupy side. Just lot's of cleaning, bearings and seals all seemed ok. All parts cleaned individually and painted individually. Steering stops welded back on the axle too. New brakes in front too with 100 series pads. I am working on the Y-link now, should have that done tonight.

Next up is Jason's bumper. I will be starting on that tomorrow. Friday a buddy is coming over and will stay the night. We will see if we can bang out the platform in the back Friday night and Saturday morning. He is a carpenter by trade so it should go fast.

Doubt I will get to test drive it until next week. With the battery all torn out I just don't feel like putting it all back in for a test drive and then tear it all back out again. Ordered up some battery terminal splitter post things, whatever you call them. Rather than run all my wires to the back where the main battery is going I think I will just run a hot and ground up to the engine bay and pick everything up that way. Way easier and faster.

Got a handful of little things to do in the next week but the air box, platform in back and bumper are my focus and bigger jobs now.

Cheers


Wish I had some time to come up and wrench and burn some wire with you. Coming along nicely.

J
 
happy

10931315_10200173309333391_3970276489550578577_n.jpg



Y-link dramas

10923549_10200173309693400_419802918373188095_n.jpg


10931447_10200173310093410_434907219274163322_n.jpg


10923502_10200173310373417_2723556552748416494_n.jpg


Perhaps Jose didn't have any issues because he is not at 4.5* of caster. Obviously I have issues. Ordering up the GM offset tres in about 6hrs.

Cheers

Would any of the aftermarket panhards give you the needed clearance?
 
Purely curiosity and not that I'd ever be doing one, but on the C&T, do you have to worry about the knuckle balls going back on in a perfectly straight line with one another? Maybe the knuckle housing takes care of very minor mis-alignments from the axle housing to knuckle balls.

Maybe I missed something, what's wrong with the stock air filter can?


Awesome progress though, jealous of the trips you take :cheers:
 
Would any of the aftermarket panhards give you the needed clearance?


Maybe, I am thinking about raising the panhard 2" on the axle side. That would help a lot and perhaps also help with the handling.

Ordered the offset 1-ton GM tres this morning along with the RS y-link adapter. So that will move it 3/4" forward.

Between the two, I think it will no longer be an issue.

Cheers
 
Why did you not bother to replace the seals on the soupy side? Seems like cheap insurance to me.


Who says I didn't?

Inner axle seal changed to OEM, both sides. I had a cheapo auto parts store mini truck seal in there which is why it went soupy. I also put in new knuckle wiper/seal, both sides. All other seals were cleaned and inspected, no signs of damage. Whole outer front axle was rebuilt about 25k ago. The cheap mini truck seal is the only reason it got soupy, it lasted a year anyways. Why waste money on parts when they are not needed?

Cheers
 
Purely curiosity and not that I'd ever be doing one, but on the C&T, do you have to worry about the knuckle balls going back on in a perfectly straight line with one another? Maybe the knuckle housing takes care of very minor mis-alignments from the axle housing to knuckle balls.

Maybe I missed something, what's wrong with the stock air filter can?


Awesome progress though, jealous of the trips you take :cheers:


Sure, it should all be straight. Thing is I didn't, and most people don't when doing a c&t, remove the knuckle ball. So it really doesn't have much chance to move up or down or whatever. It certainly can a little if the cut is huge or you are not careful. I don't know what camber is supposed to be on an 80 but I took a vertical reading on the knuckle when assembling and also on the disc rotor. One side is 88.5 degrees and the other is 88.7 degrees, don't think they are supposed to be 90* because then it would have no camber and I am very close to the same on both sides so I am happy with it.

As far as caster, yes being exactly the same on both sides would be ideal. Pretty hard to do with the axle under the truck. I got it within .10-.20 of an inch. That pretty good if you ask me. Right around 4.5 on both sides give or take.1/.2" which is about .2/.3 of a degree. So one side may be 4.2 and the other 4.5. No biggie and won't know for sure until it gets aligned.

I never had a stock air filter can. All it had when I got this truck is a super cheesy K&N clamped to the stock Chevy intake. It is/was really really ghetto. And on top of that, one of the chevy intake tubes is crushed so I get a crap seal on it.

Cheers
 
<snip>Why waste money on parts when they are not needed?

Cheers

Because you drive an 80, and that's what 80 owners do.:p

If you're interested in trying a stock 80 series airbox, I have one that I'd make you a good deal on. It's from a '93. Lemme know.:)
 
b
Because you drive an 80, and that's what 80 owners do.:p

If you're interested in trying a stock 80 series airbox, I have one that I'd make you a good deal on. It's from a '93. Lemme know.:)


haha no doubt! Been doing that since I got this sucker. In fact another box of Toyota parts just showed up 10 minutes ago.

Thanks for the offer but no time for that. Leaving to Baja in one week. I think I have a 62 air box around I could try to modify. Rather than screw with all that though I just bought the UMP 4" canister. I spent 3-4hrs looking for a Donaldson and just ended up confused so said screw it and went with the expensive UMP. Fittings to plumb it just showed up so hope to be working on that today.

The UMP is massive, my buddy said, what is that for a 600hp v8!? Heh, might work on one with that much hp but UMP lists this 4" x17.5" long by 8" dia for 250hp motors and this is what UMP told me I should use for a v8. Everything else they said would be restricting. In take on the Chevy is 4" and stock intake tubes are all 3.5" so 4" makes sense to me.

Cheers
 
Alrighty, so for the y-link I ordered up from RS the off-set GM tres. I also ordered up there off-set y-link adapter for the offset tres. This will push the tre 3/4" forward. Last bit is I got their "Cure" fitting for stopping tre roll. I also just spoke to my fab buddy at length, going to move the panhard 2" up on the axle too, this should also help a lot if not fix any clearance issues. Also help the roll center a lot.

That is my plan, 2-day air on the RS parts so will be seeing those on Saturday.

Cheers
 
Make sure to keep your drag link and panhard as parallel as possible to avoid bump-steer. If you move the panhard up and don't make a corresponding change to the drag link it may cause noticeable issues that can be scary on the street...
 
Make sure to keep your drag link and panhard as parallel as possible to avoid bump-steer. If you move the panhard up and don't make a corresponding change to the drag link it may cause noticeable issues that can be scary on the street...


Ya I am pretty familiar with drag link angle and bump steer. You probably can't tell in my pics but the panhard is about 1" (maybe more) lower than the draglink. So I got room to move it up and not mess with the angle much.

Cheers
 
So got the rough in on the platform in the back done, that was about 2am last night when I took the above picture. We built it out of 1/2" AC and 1x2. Glued and biscuted it all. It is really stout and only weighs about 15lbs, maybe 20lbs. Just barely enough room in the battery boxes for two batteries and wiring. Couldn't really build the batt box to suit the batts, had to build it to suit the space available. Luckily it will just barely work.

Got my air box mount all fabbed up and test fitted and now painted. It is a done deal and ready to install the air box.

Tonight planning to work on the platform in the back a bit and also get my rear bumper sanded and painted. RuffStuff new tres just showed up today so also will be working on that.

More pics to come!

Cheers
 

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