bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Where are you measuring from? Beginning of tape??
F to 2F questions
- Thread starter Cgn1976
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- Thread starter
- #22
Beginning of tape to the inner most, big pully groove (3 groove pully)
- Thread starter
- #23
I'll see if I can get a better image later today.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Do you still have your F engine? Are these mounting brackets on the engine from your old F or did they come on the 2F?
- Thread starter
- #25
I have the F and those brackets. These are the ones from the 2 f
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Wondering if there’s any kind of a difference
- Thread starter
- #27
Was thinking that. Pulled the passenger side off and compared and it looked pretty close, but I'm thinking I'll pull both and see.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I'd measure off the face of the pulley. Use a framing square across the face and measure it like that. See if it makes a difference.
- Thread starter
- #30
Thx pighead.That gives me a little confidence. As some of you might recall, I'm pretty green! First engine swap. I just don't know what to expect or when to throw up the bat signal.
Been thinking these new rear motor mounts have larger bolts that the originals, which means there's less room to shimmy the stud around the hole to change the overall allignmemt. Thinking about pulling the rears out, making the hole a tad bigger. With the extra clearance around the stud, I bet I could get it a lot closer anyway.
Could very well be, i forget. 2F seems to have bigger bolts everwhere
- Thread starter
- #32
I probably wasn't very clear when I described how I measured it. I did use the face of the pully so the end of the tape was on a solid surface. I brought out my straight edge to make sure the surface I was measuring to was flat, which it was. Hard to tell in the picture because it juts upwards a little but on the plane I was measuring to it was flat. No doubt things are off center a bit. I guess my question is how far out of "true" is OK. The farther it gets, the more the drive shaft will be on an angle. It's obviously designed to handle angle changes, but I have to assume the more true the better.
I'll go do it again with a tape mark on one side so you can really see the difference. pic to follow
- Thread starter
- #33
Pics. I realize the angle makes it look bad on the 3rd pic, but its about 3/16" different. That 3rd pic is from the other side of the pully
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Did you hook up the trans already?
- Thread starter
- #35
Not yet. I'm waiting for a new pilot bearing to show up. I can see the back of the bell housing is out of true too. One corner is slightly farther back than the other. It's gonna push the trans to one side just a hair.
Can you not put in a few washers between the back motor mount and the bellhousing to move the back of passenger side of the engine over a little? The bolts that thread into the bellhousing are long and will easily accomodate a few washers. I'd have all the motor mounts bolts loose, align the engine with any necessary washers and then start tightening it down and checking to maintain alignment.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
If ol’ 120mm was here, he’d tell you it wasn’t rocket science. Now would be the time for someone to pick up his slack.
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- Thread starter
- #38
Rocket science this is not. But with my level of experience here, it might as well be.
I guess the initial question boils down to a few things:
1. How far off can it be and still be safe. Don't want undue pressure on the transfer case, drive shafts, axels etc...
2. Is there a difference between the F and 2F mounts that would cause this. (I'm aware the bolts to the engine are larger). What I've read and can see is they are the same.
3. What is the best method to get it square.
As far as washers go on the rear mounts, I'm not convinced that's gonna work. In the rear, the new aftermarket mounts have larger bolts than what I pulled out. So much larger that they are pretty much an exact fit with the holes through the frame bracket. The old ones had maybe an 1/8" around them in any direction. That meant on one side the bolt could shift forward an 1/8" and the other side back an 1/8". I'm guessing would pretty much account for the issue. If I added washers to one side of the rear mount to the motor it would push that side over, but the opposite side would have no way to give way other than to press the motor mount rubber over to one side, because again, the stud through the frame bracket has zero slack. Seems like that would just be putting undue pressure on that mount and wear it out faster.
Takes me back to drilling out these frame bracket holes a little bit to give a similar amount of slack around the outside as the original studs had around them. It's not like they didn't have a certain amount of play from the factory. Gonna try that today if I have some time. Then the question will be is there enough play in the front mounts to allow the shift from the back. I suspect there will be because those new front mounts use the same size bolts as the ones that came out so there will be the same amount of play. If not, I guess I'll try going to the original F mounts, after I reem out the engine bolt holes of course.
keep ya posted
I guess the initial question boils down to a few things:
1. How far off can it be and still be safe. Don't want undue pressure on the transfer case, drive shafts, axels etc...
2. Is there a difference between the F and 2F mounts that would cause this. (I'm aware the bolts to the engine are larger). What I've read and can see is they are the same.
3. What is the best method to get it square.
As far as washers go on the rear mounts, I'm not convinced that's gonna work. In the rear, the new aftermarket mounts have larger bolts than what I pulled out. So much larger that they are pretty much an exact fit with the holes through the frame bracket. The old ones had maybe an 1/8" around them in any direction. That meant on one side the bolt could shift forward an 1/8" and the other side back an 1/8". I'm guessing would pretty much account for the issue. If I added washers to one side of the rear mount to the motor it would push that side over, but the opposite side would have no way to give way other than to press the motor mount rubber over to one side, because again, the stud through the frame bracket has zero slack. Seems like that would just be putting undue pressure on that mount and wear it out faster.
Takes me back to drilling out these frame bracket holes a little bit to give a similar amount of slack around the outside as the original studs had around them. It's not like they didn't have a certain amount of play from the factory. Gonna try that today if I have some time. Then the question will be is there enough play in the front mounts to allow the shift from the back. I suspect there will be because those new front mounts use the same size bolts as the ones that came out so there will be the same amount of play. If not, I guess I'll try going to the original F mounts, after I reem out the engine bolt holes of course.
keep ya posted
I wouldn’t overthink this slight variation from square. All of us with lifts have much greater driveline angles and only the most extreme angles demand any mitigation.
