F/R Lockers not engaging (1 Viewer)

[tyranny2k]

My truck has been getting built and I took it for an extended trip with mostly road and some logging and 4x4 tracks. I discovered the lockers won't engage. Blinking lights on the dash. Im going to do some more investigating, but wondering about Aisin vs Toyota vs Dorman if I need to replace. Aisin seems to be least expensive, Dorman mid range cost and from the dealer Toyota, very expensive. Thoughts? Has anybody used these?

 

[COYS]

I bought OEM Toyota locker actuators b4 I knew about the Aisin alternative which is simply missing the fancy Toyota bubble wrap. I recall they're stocked at rockauto.

 

[tyranny2k]

I bought OEM Toyota locker actuators b4 I knew about the Aisin alternative which is simply missing the fancy Toyota bubble wrap. I recall they're stocked at rockauto.

So Aisin does build the Genuine Toyota Part. I assumed so since they are a Toyota company and build much of their driveline parts. Do we know if Dorman is simply repackaging Aisin parts? Thanks!

 

[COYS]

So Aisin does build the Genuine Toyota Part. I assumed so since they are a Toyota company and build much of their driveline parts. Do we know if Dorman is simply repackaging Aisin parts? Thanks!

Dorman has nothing to do with Aisin or Toyota.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Why would you just replace before trying to fix? They probable just need a good cleaning and exercising. Also are you getting the center diff to lock with light on and abs light showing.

 

[tyranny2k]

Why would you just replace before trying to fix? They probable just need a good cleaning and exercising. Also are you getting the center diff to lock with light on and abs light showing.

I’ve done some snooping and yes the center does light up. I was able with a bit of forward and back driving in a dirt lot to get the rear to engage. Front wouldn’t. If I have time I’ll get it up on stands and try and see what’s going on. Might just end up at the shop due to time. Just wanted to know my options if new is needed.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Awesome the front and rear are easily accessible and a 1 hour job each to take out, clean, grease and install sometimes front will lock up if you try driving up a obstacle such as a curb while it’s blinking and same going down. Worth a shot.

 

[tyranny2k]

Awesome the front and rear are easily accessible and a 1 hour job each to take out, clean, grease and install sometimes front will lock up if you try driving up a obstacle such as a curb while it’s blinking and same going down. Worth a shot.

Awesome the front and rear are easily accessible and a 1 hour job each to take out, clean, grease and install sometimes front will lock up if you try driving up a obstacle such as a curb while it’s blinking and same going down. Worth a shot.

Thanks oregon & COYS. Appreciate the guidance. Yeah, I've gotten under there and looked. Looks pretty straight and easy to remove, check the magnets etc. Just have few things going on. Might just back burner the whole issue for a bit. Not planning anything requiring the lockers in the immediate future. 4W low should suffice.

BTW, if you've done this job. Are there any tips on remove and install. Is it all supposed to be in the unengaged position to remove and then reinstall?

 

[jonheld]

BTW, if you've done this job. Are there any tips on remove and install. Is it all supposed to be in the unengaged position to remove and then reinstall?

It's all available in the Toyota Factory Service Manual.

80-series

FJ80, FZJ80 and related models

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jbstrong01]

Hope to get a reply quickly. I just test drove a 1997 FJ80, 280k mi and super clean frame and motor has some leaks to be expected. Took it to my guy who runs a killer Toyota build shop who built my GX470 (profile pic). The 3X lock was not working. When I was having it inspected at the shop we were locking it and the front and rear were blinking on dash but never went solid. As we drove it at idle speed, it lurched like it was trying to lock but couldn't. Strangest thing I have ever felt and didn't want to blow anything up. Diagnosing could be time consuming and costly. It's a project truck for sure but that cost may make it a no go. Guy wants 15k. I am thinking 6k.

Any thoughts?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Engage LO range, Turn the dial to lock FR & RR, and drive slowly in a figure 8.

If they are working, they'll both lock before you complete a figure 8.

If you do it on a paved surface, the drive-ins will bind up, and it'll want to drive straight ahead, you'll have to fight the steering.
Take it easy, do it slowly to test and no harm will be done

 

[mudgudgeon]

Guy wants 15k. I am thinking 6k.

Good luck getting that deal to fly

 

[jbstrong01]

Thank for the reply, I will do the figure 8 and see. I have a rock crawler Jeep Wrangler so I am familiar with the feel of locked axles on pavement ... which you should never do ... so I will start digging in. BTW, I picked up the truck not $6k but under $10k. I am a noob on the LC but will be documenting the journey on my YT channel.

Here it is ...

 

[mudgudgeon]

I have a rock crawler Jeep Wrangler so I am familiar with the feel of locked axles

Toyota lockers have very coarse locking mechanisms. It takes a decent amount of differential movement to get them aligned sometimes, a figure eight will give you the differential rotation across the front and rear diffs
If you're used to ARBs or other lockers, this might take a bit of feeling out and getting used to

 

[Sarmajor]

The switch that operates to confirm that the diff is locked is a reverse light switch that is used in many Toyota gearboxes. The switch contacts get dirty. The diff lock could be engaged and still have the flashing light if the switch contacts are dirty.
The best thing to do is to put the truck in low range or operate the CDL switch to lock the Center diff lock.
Jack up a front and rear wheel and engage both fr and rr diff locks. Rotate the raised wheels until they lock.
This should confirm the operation of the mechanisms and confirm the status of the indicator switches.
You can clean the switch contacts by switching some real load with them. I think George had a method using a current limited power supply and operating the switch to short out the power supply. Important that it is a current limited supply. A 9 volt battery will also work.

 

[IdahoDoug]

I wouldn't sweat it. This sounds like classic lack of use and will resolve itself by repeatedly trying to lock them. Be sure you understand the system - F/R only lock when the center light is illuminated steady. Find a dirt lot and do the figure 8s. If you got the rear to lock, it will now lock more readily by exercising it a few times. The front is more stubborn but will also lock for you with exercise. It's a well known issue and you got a great price. Once you get them freed up, just do what many of us do. A couple times a year cycle them to keep the actuator from gumming up. Nice find!! And welcome to Mud.

 

[Mrtwooooo]

First thing to check, like others have said, is that the center diff is locking. Listen for the actuator in the transfer case to cycle and then watch for the center diff lock light on the dash. If that light is not on then the axle locker actuators will not even move and all you will get is blinking lights.

On the center diff… if you hear the actuator cycle but never get a center diff lock light on the dash then it’s usually the switch in the transfer case is either bad or needs to be cycled a lot. The switch only confirms the diff is locked.

 

[jbstrong01]

Thanks all, I am going to get to that in a week or so. Have a few leaks to take care of but need to clean it all first to really get a sense of what needs to be done. Just noticed the center diff speedo is leaking so I am getting that o-ring and then cleaning it all to make sure leak is gone. Step-by-step reno!

 

[jbstrong01]

First thing to check, like others have said, is that the center diff is locking. Listen for the actuator in the transfer case to cycle and then watch for the center diff lock light on the dash. If that light is not on then the axle locker actuators will not even move and all you will get is blinking lights.

On the center diff… if you hear the actuator cycle but never get a center diff lock light on the dash then it’s usually the switch in the transfer case is either bad or needs to be cycled a lot. The switch only confirms the diff is locked.

So the engine work with all the leaks is done. Looks amazing, runs 10X better! Now on to the locker issue. Took it out to a dirt lot and went like this:
1. "N"
2. Shift to "L"
3. "D" - No center diff light
4. Figure 8's both ways and going in and out of 4L and turning knob to lock both front and rear, they only blink

My T-case is not locking at all (which is why the lights only blink, '97 so my center diff light is left of center on panel and not lighting up. I can see it when the sun hits it just right but no red light. Probably cycled it 20 times with my son timing it. Nothing.

Brought it home, pulled Transfer Case Switch - Part #84222-12010 and cleaned it thoroughly along with both m/f sides of the plug. Took it out and still nothing. I am assuming the switch is bad so I ordered another from Toyota ($70) and will at least get that ruled out.

What is next???

 

[Mrtwooooo]

So the engine work with all the leaks is done. Looks amazing, runs 10X better! Now on to the locker issue. Took it out to a dirt lot and went like this:
1. "N"
2. Shift to "L"
3. "D" - No center diff light
4. Figure 8's both ways and going in and out of 4L and turning knob to lock both front and rear, they only blink

My T-case is not locking at all (which is why the lights only blink, '97 so my center diff light is left of center on panel and not lighting up. I can see it when the sun hits it just right but no red light. Probably cycled it 20 times with my son timing it. Nothing.

Brought it home, pulled Transfer Case Switch - Part #84222-12010 and cleaned it thoroughly along with both m/f sides of the plug. Took it out and still nothing. I am assuming the switch is bad so I ordered another from Toyota ($70) and will at least get that ruled out.

What is next???

With the engine off and you shift to Low range can you even hear the center diff lock actuator cycling? you'd probably also hear a relay click under the dash also.

Hate you spend $70 on that switch. its the same thing as a Reverse/ backup switch.

If you still want to test the lockers you can jump the two terminals inside the plug for the transfer case switch that you're replacing. That will make the center diff lock light come on and you can then try and cycle the axle lockers.