F/R Lockers not engaging (1 Viewer)

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jbstrong01 said:
So the engine work with all the leaks is done. Looks amazing, runs 10X better! Now on to the locker issue. Took it out to a dirt lot and went like this:
1. "N"
2. Shift to "L"
3. "D" - No center diff light
4. Figure 8's both ways and going in and out of 4L and turning knob to lock both front and rear, they only blink

My T-case is not locking at all (which is why the lights only blink, '97 so my center diff light is left of center on panel and not lighting up. I can see it when the sun hits it just right but no red light. Probably cycled it 20 times with my son timing it. Nothing.

Brought it home, pulled Transfer Case Switch - Part #84222-12010 and cleaned it thoroughly along with both m/f sides of the plug. Took it out and still nothing. I am assuming the switch is bad so I ordered another from Toyota ($70) and will at least get that ruled out.

What is next???
Click to expand...
Was the ball in the center of the back side of the switch moving in and out ?
 
Mrtwooooo said:
With the engine off and you shift to Low range can you even hear the center diff lock actuator cycling? you'd probably also hear a relay click under the dash also.

Hate you spend $70 on that switch. its the same thing as a Reverse/ backup switch.

If you still want to test the lockers you can jump the two terminals inside the plug for the transfer case switch that you're replacing. That will make the center diff lock light come on and you can then try and cycle the axle lockers.
Click to expand...
TBH there are sounds under this truck that could be multiple things. :) I just ordered the switch, $27!! I owe you a beer/scotch! So that will rule the switch out. Could be electrical? I will try the engine off to see if I hear the actuator, will LUK in a bit. I also just looked at my battery and the PO has a POS in it. Gotta go get the correct battery, windows and starting are slow. Wondering if it has enough power to even run any switches.
 
jbstrong01 said:
Yes, the ball was moving fine cleaned it off. Just ordered the new reverse switch for $30 so ruling it out.
Click to expand...
If you read that thread I posted above and follow the troubleshooting you will be successful.
 
Parts Cannon!
 
Fj80oregon said:
If you read that thread I posted above and follow the troubleshooting you will be successful.
Click to expand...
Man that's a big read! Went through it and here is where we are. TBH I am admitting that I am a noob on the FZJ80 so this is where I goobered! :) I hope this helps others in their testing on the Transfer Case / CDL. What I learned by reading IH*MUD and another site was the T-Case has a total of THREE of these sensors, TWO on the rear of the T-Case (Back of LC) and ONE on the front (Front of LC) above the drive shaft.

  1. The image that says A/T P when jumped shows the A/T P light on the dash. This sensor is the easiest to get to and on the back of the diff on the gas tank / driver side ('97 LC)
  2. The image with the "check mark" that says actuator when jumped made the actuator MOVE!!!! I cycled it about 10 times. Cleaned the sensor as well - no dash light on this when jumped
  3. The image that says T-Case & Dash LTS when jumped makes the center diff and ABS lights come on on the dash. This sensor is in the front /passenger side of diff. I plugged the sensor back in and manually pushed the ball etc in and the lights did not come on. To I am hopeful the new sensor will get me closer.
This tells me the following ... I am a knucklehead for not knowing my front from my back. BUT the A/TP lights on dash work! AND my actuator works! AND my dash lights work!!! So by process of elimination it SHOULD be the sensor on the actuator and/or the center-diff/ABS lights.

When I jumped the actuator and it worked both my son and I yelled like we just found gold!!!

20221107_180153.jpg


20221107_175828.jpg


20221107_182735.jpg
 
jbstrong01 said:
Man that's a big read! Went through it and here is where we are. TBH I am admitting that I am a noob on the FZJ80 so this is where I goobered! :) I hope this helps others in their testing on the Transfer Case / CDL. What I learned by reading IH*MUD and another site was the T-Case has a total of THREE of these sensors, TWO on the rear of the T-Case (Back of LC) and ONE on the front (Front of LC) above the drive shaft.

  1. The image that says A/T P when jumped shows the A/T P light on the dash. This sensor is the easiest to get to and on the back of the diff on the gas tank / driver side ('97 LC)
  2. The image with the "check mark" that says actuator when jumped made the actuator MOVE!!!! I cycled it about 10 times. Cleaned the sensor as well - no dash light on this when jumped
  3. The image that says T-Case & Dash LTS when jumped makes the center diff and ABS lights come on on the dash. This sensor is in the front /passenger side of diff. I plugged the sensor back in and manually pushed the ball etc in and the lights did not come on. To I am hopeful the new sensor will get me closer.
This tells me the following ... I am a knucklehead for not knowing my front from my back. BUT the A/TP lights on dash work! AND my actuator works! AND my dash lights work!!! So by process of elimination it SHOULD be the sensor on the actuator and/or the center-diff/ABS lights.

When I jumped the actuator and it worked both my son and I yelled like we just found gold!!!

View attachment 3162287

View attachment 3162290

View attachment 3162291
Click to expand...
***********UPDATE********* 11.09.2022*****************

So here is where we are a LOT of good and a bit of bad. Going to write it all out so hold on ...

I ordered the part thanks to the post above at HALF the price from Amazon.
  1. Got under the truck and put it in for the TCase & Dash lights pic and NOTHING ... totally bummed.
  2. Whilst under there and talking to my son in the driver seat who was working the "N", "D" & "L" to see if the lights would work he said, "check the others."
  3. So I put the switch in the Actuator, plugged it in and still nothing. Now I am bent thinking this is going to cost me a ton of time and effort and $$.
So we tested all the wiring by jumping all three wires above, A/T P, Actuator, TCase & Dash Lights. The jumping test worked on all three. So by process of elimination there could only be a total of 9 combinations (3 sensors x 3 separate issues =9 total cases)
  1. I took the front two switches out of the TCase, plugged them in and manually pushed them. New switch for TCase & Lights - WORKS, this proves the wiring and switch work. Put that back in and mark with paint pen.
  2. Take actuator switch out, plug it in and manually push it in ... NOTHING! No noise, dead.
  3. Take old TCase/Light switch and test that on the wiring pushing it in manually and BAM!! Actuator works!!! Put that back in and mark with paint pen.
  4. Take the A/T P switch out and manually test it (In "N", "D" or "P" and in HIGH, not low) and it WORKS.
  5. This tells me that all wires and switches are functioning.
Now this is where you want to punch a wall. All switches are tested and proven to work. All lights work on dash when the key is on but engine is NOT running.
  1. Put it in "N" switch to "L" and the damn thing does nothing (insert game show FAIL music here) now I am at a total loss. Figure we'll just stop for the night.
  2. Get back in it about 30 min later and figure I'd test it. Turn key on put it in "N" switch to "L" and the damn thing does nothing A-F'ing-ghen!!!!
  3. THEN I STARTED it and put it in "N" switch to "L" and the damn thing shows me the Center diff light and ABS light ... HOLY SH*T did this just work! Called my son to show him the lights.
  4. Then it was time to exercise the diffs in the dirt. Took about 30 minutes of it and now EVERYTHING locks up!!! Still a little fickle but will do it every day to exercise it.
  5. HAPPY CAMPER
So here is what I would recommend:
  1. Unplug each switch and jump the wires to test them
  2. Plug in the switch and manually push the indicator in and watch dash lights, if they go on, the dash lights and wiring and switches are good to go
  3. Mark everything so you know you touched it and it's been tested and it works.
  4. IMHO just buy the two front switches from Amazon, at $27ea it's peace of mind.
  5. The switch on the back of the diff that lights up the A/T P I think I found the part # (8422260081) on https://partsouq.com/ .. but its late. :)
  6. That should get you to the point where the CDL works and then you can test front/rear, hopefully, like me, you will get them to lock.
Now for my problem.
After all this, it is WORKING and it's all LOCKING but here is what happens.
  • When driving straight on a dirt road with rear or front/rear locked, the RPMs crank up and it shifts HARD into second. It's worrisome.
  • If I were on the rocks like in my Jeep I wouldn't be noticing it as there are not too may straight sections, but when there are it still shifts smoothly. This is a HARD shift at about 2500 RPM's.
  • I am not sure where to go with this, thoughts?
 
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