F Engine Oil

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David70FJ40

David70FJ40

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I have a 25% coupon at Advance Auto and since it is about time for the yearly oil change I thought I would use the coupon for oil and a filter. I saw a recommendation here on MUD for Rotella 15w-40 because the engines liked the extra zinc. They have Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15w-40. Is this the same stuff? Or do I get the T5?
 
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T6 blue jug synthetic has been my choice. Its got the extra ZDDP Or zinc additives hence the counter guy will tell you its a diesel oil.
 
I've been using M1 5W-40 which rates high in Zinc, 1400 ppm as opposed to 900 ppm for M1 5W-30.

However I also add this every oil change:

Isky ZDDP Plus Additives ZDDP

Maybe I'm going overboard?

Maybe best to switch to M1 5W-30 and just add ZDDP to the older stuff? Hmmm...

As I run M1 5W-30 in our modern rigs it would at least simplify what I have to keep on the shelf.

Dunno. :hmm:
 
All the current crop of Rotella oils DO NOT have the necessary levels of zddp for flat-tappet engines. They are all now SN or newer and have 800 ppm zinc or less. You need a minimum of 1500 ppm zinc (1700 ppm was the common concentration when your engine was new). And now may even be lower with the newest CK-4 and FA-4 requirements.

From Shell:

What’s the difference between CK-4/FA-4 heavy duty engine oils and current engine oils?
In order to meet goals for more fuel-efficient engines and fewer emissions, many next-generation engines will run at higher operating temperatures. This will require changes in engine oil composition, so they can withstand more heat without sacrificing engine protection.

It will also mean that instead of one category of engine oils, we’ll have two – CK-4 and FA-4. CK-4 engine oils will be a direct replacement for the engine oils you’re using now. You’ll be able to buy the same viscosity grades and oil types (conventional, full synthetic, synthetic blend) you’re using now, and they’ll be “backwards compatible” to ALL current vehicles. They’ll just also conform to the new PC-11 standards.

The new FA-4 engine oils will be offered in lower viscosity grades and are designed primarily for next-generation engines to help maximize fuel economy without sacrificing engine protection. These FA-4 oils may have limited backwards compatibility2 and would be labeled as such. Oil companies and OEMs are currently testing these products in a range of applications to demonstrate without sacrificing engine protection.

The Rotella line are excellent oils for MODERN engines, not your antique one.

Lucas Classic is about the best bang for your buck, today.
 
@Spike Strip I believed the Rotella oils had the zinc needed for the old F engine. Will the Lucas Classic have the necessary zinc or should I consider a zinc additive like ZDDP as noted above? What about the Rotella with the ZDDP additive?
 
It used to.

Yes, Lucas Classic line and their magnum 10w40 is good without adding.
 
Thanks for the help. I want to take care of the old F and engine oil is the life blood.
 
The air cooled Porsche community is fanatical on this topic, given that a rebuild of a 911 engine can easily run $15k or more. The favorites there are Brad Penn and Valvoline VR1 Racing. I’ve used both in my 911, and prefer the VR1 for easy availability and less valvetrain noise. Will probably use it in the 40 as well.
 
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VR1 is racing oil. Racing oil is high zddp but it doesn't have any of the additives for longevity because it's meant to be dumped after each race. Penn is excellent oil, if you dont' mind $120 oil change.
 
Spike Strip said:
VR1 is racing oil. Racing oil is high zddp but it doesn't have any of the additives for longevity because it's meant to be dumped after each race. Penn is excellent oil, if you dont' mind $120 oil change.
Click to expand...

> Valvoline VR1 <.....Note, I use the 20w50 flavor.
 
Jeezzz, the VR1 is only 1400ppm now ? That sux. Even the Lucas Magnum above has around 1700ppm, and it's half the price!
 
Spike Strip said:
Jeezzz, the VR1 is only 1400ppm now ? That sux. Even the Lucas Magnum above has around 1700ppm, and it's half the price!
Click to expand...

Sux even worse, it's actually 1358 PPM, per my last Blackstone report. :hillbilly: .....I use Valvoline 20w50, as it was highly recomended by my engine builder.

> Oil - wear protection < A good read, if you like reading about oil...albeit from 2015
 
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dad4x4 said:
Glad this was brought up. I just changed the oil pan gasket, pump and inspection plate gasket.
so is there a consensus or a preference?
Click to expand...

Still confused/undecided but at this point I am leaning to the Lucas Hot Rod and Custom Car oil in 10w-40. May add some of the ZDDP additive if I can find it locally.
 
If you use any of the Lucas Classic Hot Rod oils you do not need to add zddp... In fact, too much zddp is just as bad as too little. Too much zddp and the molecule 'clumps' and does not function as it should.

If you add zddp to low-zinc oil, you have to 'dose' correctly (meaning shoot for a particular concentration) or you risk damage if too high. To do that, you need to know the Zn concentration of the base and the Zn concentration of the additive. It's not like sex where there's no such thing as too much! :p

That's why I gave up on the additives and just try to use a relatively cheap (ish) oil with the proper add-package for our engines and try and change it every 3-5K miles or once a year.

The oils with 1100 to 1200 ppm zinc initially are not enough because oil additives get consumed as the oil gets used, so by the time you get to 5K miles on a low-zddp oil, you've depleted the additive and you get excessive wear.

In a pinch, I use Rotella and a couple bottles of Motorcycle 4-stroke oil (SJ rated) which usually pops the zddp up to acceptable levels, but it's been a while since I've looked at those so concentrations may have changed.

:meh:
 
Since you're in North Carolina, probably no big deal. But up here in Maine I just got my rebuilt 78 FJ40LV-KCJA finished and this will be the first winter that it will be my driver. I have always used 15/40 motor oil but have quickly found out that you have to have a great battery in order to turn over a 2F engine using 15/40 in temperatures below 0.
-5 degrees F

-5 degrees F

  • Media owner CHCP
  • Date added
 
Spike Strip said:
All the current crop of Rotella oils DO NOT have the necessary levels of zddp for flat-tappet engines. They are all now SN or newer and have 800 ppm zinc or less. You need a minimum of 1500 ppm zinc (1700 ppm was the common concentration when your engine was new). And now may even be lower with the newest CK-4 and FA-4 requirements.

From Shell:

What’s the difference between CK-4/FA-4 heavy duty engine oils and current engine oils?
In order to meet goals for more fuel-efficient engines and fewer emissions, many next-generation engines will run at higher operating temperatures. This will require changes in engine oil composition, so they can withstand more heat without sacrificing engine protection.

It will also mean that instead of one category of engine oils, we’ll have two – CK-4 and FA-4. CK-4 engine oils will be a direct replacement for the engine oils you’re using now. You’ll be able to buy the same viscosity grades and oil types (conventional, full synthetic, synthetic blend) you’re using now, and they’ll be “backwards compatible” to ALL current vehicles. They’ll just also conform to the new PC-11 standards.

The new FA-4 engine oils will be offered in lower viscosity grades and are designed primarily for next-generation engines to help maximize fuel economy without sacrificing engine protection. These FA-4 oils may have limited backwards compatibility2 and would be labeled as such. Oil companies and OEMs are currently testing these products in a range of applications to demonstrate without sacrificing engine protection.

The Rotella line are excellent oils for MODERN engines, not your antique one.

Lucas Classic is about the best bang for your buck, today.
Click to expand...

I have 2 gallons of T6 CJ-4 on the shelf. Is this the older version that had the higher ZDDP and no longer sold?
 
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