Looks like Mobil 1 15w50 and 5w40 diesel truck both have 1300 ppm of ZDDP based on their reporting.
F Engine Oil
- Thread starter David70FJ40
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Threads
- 963
- Messages
- 19,526
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Threads
- 963
- Messages
- 19,526
Sure, anybody want to import this? SJ/CF 20w-50
Toyota Motor Oil - Buy Sj/cf 20w-50 Product on Alibaba.com
Toyota Motor Oil - Buy Sj/cf 20w-50 Product on Alibaba.com
Hello,
That is a good option.
Regardless of your oil choice, and outside temperature when starting the engine, a viscosity modifier is a good idea.
Juan
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Threads
- 963
- Messages
- 19,526
Hello,
It is an additive that keeps the viscosity range.
As oil (or any liquid) gets hotter, viscosity decreases. Lubrication depends on a thin film of viscous oil between two (or more) moving parts. Low viscosity makes the film thinner, which leaves less oil between moving parts.
Conversely, as oil gets colder, its viscosity increases. The lubricating film then becomes too thick, hindering movement.
Scientists and engineers try their best to keep oil viscosity (and the lubricating film) stable over a range of temperature. This is why there are different SAE oil viscosity grades, depending on the engine operating temperature. But even a carefully designed engine oil can lose some viscosity with a sudden temperature change. Not only at engine start but also when outside temperature decreases suddenly because of a storm or a mountain pass, for instance.
Viscosity modifiers add stability to engine oil viscosity, allowing it to adapt better to these sudden changes. They keep the lubrication film intact while the rest of the oil adapts to the new temperature. And moving parts continue working without additional wear.
Contrary to popular belief, just a few (less than eight) fluid ounces will do the trick.
Hope this helps.
Juan
It is an additive that keeps the viscosity range.
As oil (or any liquid) gets hotter, viscosity decreases. Lubrication depends on a thin film of viscous oil between two (or more) moving parts. Low viscosity makes the film thinner, which leaves less oil between moving parts.
Conversely, as oil gets colder, its viscosity increases. The lubricating film then becomes too thick, hindering movement.
Scientists and engineers try their best to keep oil viscosity (and the lubricating film) stable over a range of temperature. This is why there are different SAE oil viscosity grades, depending on the engine operating temperature. But even a carefully designed engine oil can lose some viscosity with a sudden temperature change. Not only at engine start but also when outside temperature decreases suddenly because of a storm or a mountain pass, for instance.
Viscosity modifiers add stability to engine oil viscosity, allowing it to adapt better to these sudden changes. They keep the lubrication film intact while the rest of the oil adapts to the new temperature. And moving parts continue working without additional wear.
Contrary to popular belief, just a few (less than eight) fluid ounces will do the trick.
Hope this helps.
Juan
20w50 VR1 with Lucas oil stabilizer in my 300,000 mile 2F with a 15600-41010 filter
I’m very happy with this combination.
I’m very happy with this combination.
So, to recap, Lucas Classic/Hot Rod 10w40 or 10w30 is OK for an F engine? My truck is a 71. I had intended to use OEM Toyota filters with Lucas oil.
On Lucas's website it says the zinc value is 2100PPM for either 10w30 or 10w40.
On Lucas's website it says the zinc value is 2100PPM for either 10w30 or 10w40.
Either flavor Lucas hot rod and a good filter and you should be fine.
At Costco I noticed they sell a Chevron 400 SDE 15w-40 and it perked my interest. It a modern conventional diesel oil
With all the best ingredients according to Chevrons information. It’s heavy duty.
When I looked up the Zinc content it was listed in a Mass % of 0.8 and it meant nothing to me not being in ppm.
Anyone wish to comment on this oil?
Thanks
devo
This is what I run in the 2fe in my fj40, the 22re in my Mini, and the 6bt in my Dodge.
Works fine for me.
- Thread starter
- #35
According to Chevron, the 400 SDE oil has a zinc content of only 800 ppm which as I understand is very low, especially as compared to the Lucas Hot Rod and Custom oil.
Ok so what non synthetic can a guy use that is not almost $10. Per quart? In my ‘78 I use Mobil 1 15W50 as it has a higher zinc conc. According to other folks on here it may not even be enough. My brother runs conventional oil in his ‘76 2F, what is good?
As stated in the ubiquitous oil threads on MUD -- Delo is an excellent oil for a modern motor. 800 ppm zddp is way too low for your F or 2F engine. By the time you change your oil, the zddp has been consumed to a level that's probably doing damage; that's why oil spex at the time your engine was made were around 1700 ppm for the lower-cost oils. It's a hassle to run the proper antique-engine oil now, but essential for longevity.