Exspession of interest FLEXI COILS
- Thread starter TheBigBoy
- Start date
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TheBigBoy said:
Oh goodie.. Time to spend the coin on some Slee 6"
AutoCraft Aus
Araco Master
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Thanks for that, we have beat the hell out of those coil designs, and we went through 9 sets in design, over 18 months, before we were happy with them. We also designed them to run with a bump spacer, for bigger tyres, and to ensure coil bind didnt happen, with the extra room taken up by more steel.
Our old designs became available, eventually, but they tended to sag, and break the dead coils off the top, when we did beat the hell out of them in testing.
I started back in 07 with my Patrol, before making them for ROOBY just after that.
Im about to send some over the pond, to fit to my own 80, over there, as soon as I can find one!!!
Along with some other bits and pieces I will need
Glad you like them
Flexy-Coils on or off?
I've been subscribed to this thread in the hopes of a group buy. Since you're planning on sending over a shipment, does this mean that the group buy might be "on" again? I'd be interested in a set of 2"-2.5" Flexicoils for an FZJ80.
Im about to send some over the pond, to fit to my own 80, over there, as soon as I can find one!!!
Along with some other bits and pieces I will need
I've been subscribed to this thread in the hopes of a group buy. Since you're planning on sending over a shipment, does this mean that the group buy might be "on" again? I'd be interested in a set of 2"-2.5" Flexicoils for an FZJ80.
Hello, are the 4.5" avail here is the states for purchase now?
If so who has them?
Thanks
Mmatt
If so who has them?
Thanks
Mmatt
- Thread starter
- #106
Noone sells flexi coils in the states. Autocraft calls his coils Slinky coils and are different to flexi coils. Each to their own. And why i think he should start his own thread. Apart from people posting "I want some" no further action was taken by them. If you wanted some flexi coils. You should have emailed shane at suspension stuff. 
Organizer of Group Buy not clear
BigBoy,
Hmm, I don't see anything in your initial post for this thread about e-mailing Shane to be in on the group buy? It seemed as if you were organizing it? Was Shane organizing it? If so, this wasn't clear.
I also suggested a distributor within this thread, but got no response.
My first thread Ive started myself.
Just trying to gauge interest from your side of the globe about sending a shipment of flexi coils to the USA.
BigBoy,
Hmm, I don't see anything in your initial post for this thread about e-mailing Shane to be in on the group buy? It seemed as if you were organizing it? Was Shane organizing it? If so, this wasn't clear.
I also suggested a distributor within this thread, but got no response.
- Thread starter
- #108
This thread was an expression of interest. I was wondering why noone has flexi coils in the states. After interest gathered, I put everyone in touch with shane. I was never going to organise a group buy myself. And bowed out apart from feed back on the product. Post 3, 17, 51, 95.
So were there issues with them? I am just not wanting a jarring, rattling ride, i guess i am leaning towards Slee at this point, i don't want to spend big $$ on crappy coils.
Thanks for you input guys
Thanks for you input guys
I totally agree that $1000 would make you think twice. Thats the whole point of this thread. See how many people are interested. If enough interest, and enough people can get organised. Your not paying much more than we pay for them here ($50). Once youve had progressive coils, you wont EVER go back
I guess I missed this one. Well, if anyone has the time (what I'm lacking) and inclination to organize, I'm interested.
The Suspension Stuff sourced coils ride well even with my junk temp shocks. They'll be perfectly paired with Radflo's once I can cut fenders, cycle, and order.
The only concern that I've had is coil bind, and all based on preliminary cycling and input I received here. Since I do not have the compressed coil dimensions, I can't definitively compare to other coils, but my compressed** dimensions were less than others felt they should be, considering lift height.
In all reality, it's a non-issue for me, since running 37s. Even with fender cuts, the tire contacting may limit up, and droop travel trumps up, based on terrain, but compressed dimensions of all coils should be a factor when choosing, calculated with tire size and overall suspension travel.
The coils ride plush, will not loosen in the bucket at max extension of the OE links (have to use bottle jack to install, even with axle fully drooped ) have a very good coating in comparison to many other coils I've ran on other vehicles.
**. To clarify the "preliminary cycling" statement.**
In early conversations with Glenn Radflo, it was advised that the only dimension needed was compressed, so I lifted the 80 at all four tires individually, with a forklift, until the point the same side opposing tire lifted, too.
Once I provided the dimensions to Glenn, he was concerned that the dimensions provided were inaccurate, since the compressed numbers were nearing a TJM 7" lift kits specifications.
At that point, the tires were 345/75/16 and the only contact I noted was at the outer frame rail on the rear. I did not pay close attention to the remaining spaces between coils, since I wasn't expecting coil bind to be an issue, was more expecting tires to contact everywhere, so can't say that it is an issue, or not.
My point. If running 35s, it'd be worth comparing the compressed coil dimensions with any coil selection with the same intensity of shock travel specifications.
Mark's appears to be a non- issue, so may be a better indicator of possible wheel travel thanmine.
- Thread starter
- #112
That's where the problem is Chris. Lifting each wheel individually isn't max compression. Using 2 folk lifts at appossing ends (left front, right rear or visa versa) will put all the trucks weight on 2 tyres. That's max compression. And like my trucks pic.
The other concern is compression measurement vs lift height vs tire size. This mostly relates to the rear.
The other concern is compression measurement vs lift height vs tire size. This mostly relates to the rear.
That's the general consensus posed by others, too.
I've requested the compressed numbers from Shane some time ago, with the intention of cycling the suspension, sans coils but subbed for some type of spacer that's the manufacturers fully compressed dimension, but never received.
Since I no longer have access to a vehicle lift, in talks with another buddy to use shop/ expertise with cycling and possibly fender surgery, and they expressed interest in the compressed coil dimension, too, saying they've seen similar designs of progressive coils bind long before conventional, because of the additional material.
In the next sentence the same pro did say that even if that were the case with mine, it's really irrelevant, due to tire size.
I've been in some relatively sticky situations with mine when running the 345s and the only rubbing I've even noticed was the PS rear wheel rubbing against the inner frame rail. Most all other guys I wheel with are running similar fixed tires and 4" drops and they still rub. Can't explain why, unless the coils bind to that degree.
Personally, I'm not hung up on travel numbers, but want to maximize what I've got, understanding that a 50/50 up/ down isn't possible, I'll take full advantage of all the Flexy's offer in extension.
I've requested the compressed numbers from Shane some time ago, with the intention of cycling the suspension, sans coils but subbed for some type of spacer that's the manufacturers fully compressed dimension, but never received.
Since I no longer have access to a vehicle lift, in talks with another buddy to use shop/ expertise with cycling and possibly fender surgery, and they expressed interest in the compressed coil dimension, too, saying they've seen similar designs of progressive coils bind long before conventional, because of the additional material.
In the next sentence the same pro did say that even if that were the case with mine, it's really irrelevant, due to tire size.
I've been in some relatively sticky situations with mine when running the 345s and the only rubbing I've even noticed was the PS rear wheel rubbing against the inner frame rail. Most all other guys I wheel with are running similar fixed tires and 4" drops and they still rub. Can't explain why, unless the coils bind to that degree.
Personally, I'm not hung up on travel numbers, but want to maximize what I've got, understanding that a 50/50 up/ down isn't possible, I'll take full advantage of all the Flexy's offer in extension.
- Thread starter
- #114
He actually sounds like he's on the ball. Tyre size IS relevant to lift. Look at it this way.
If you take normal coils and put them in a machine to compress them half the weight of your truck = say 13". But with 37's it binds up and the coils compression after bumpstops are adjusted = 16". Thats 3" of wasted coil energy during compression, doing nothing at all. "Most" lifted coils are all the same length bar, just wound with further spacings between the coils. So a 6" lifted coil doesnt compress to 3" less than a 3" lifted coil. It will compress to around 4.5". So the bigger the lift, the more travel.
= smaller tires or bigger lift.
Flexi coils work great. The dead space of the coil is 2' depending on lift size. Think of it as like a 2" lifted coil with 2" coil spacers. Now that wasted coil energy is not wasted. When tyre drops that 2" dead wound coil space becomes active exerting downward pressure and keeping the coil retained at all times. Which is perfect for the types of lifts and tyre size you guys run. The coil below the the dead space is a progressive coil = great ride.
If you take normal coils and put them in a machine to compress them half the weight of your truck = say 13". But with 37's it binds up and the coils compression after bumpstops are adjusted = 16". Thats 3" of wasted coil energy during compression, doing nothing at all. "Most" lifted coils are all the same length bar, just wound with further spacings between the coils. So a 6" lifted coil doesnt compress to 3" less than a 3" lifted coil. It will compress to around 4.5". So the bigger the lift, the more travel.
= smaller tires or bigger lift.
Flexi coils work great. The dead space of the coil is 2' depending on lift size. Think of it as like a 2" lifted coil with 2" coil spacers. Now that wasted coil energy is not wasted. When tyre drops that 2" dead wound coil space becomes active exerting downward pressure and keeping the coil retained at all times. Which is perfect for the types of lifts and tyre size you guys run. The coil below the the dead space is a progressive coil = great ride.
So does anyone sell these in the states or is this still a import thing?
No one sells outside Australia.
We are working on developing progressive rate coils for the 80's.
The ball is rolling.. I have a thread in the 80 tech section.
I am trying to gather as much input as I can from members here so we can deliver what the majority of 80 owners want in the "perfect" coil!
Matt
The ball is rolling.. I have a thread in the 80 tech section.
I am trying to gather as much input as I can from members here so we can deliver what the majority of 80 owners want in the "perfect" coil!
Matt
Good luck on that endeavor, but I can save you the poll.
The perfect 80 coil will turn a station wagon into a rock donkey buggy, while performing like a Ferrari, on road.
Flex like a Russian gymnast even with radius arms, correct caster and pinion angle, and only cost $5 each.
Oh, and come with free shocks!!
Be hard pressed to create a market for an ideal 80 suspension with an introductory price around $800 per corner, not to mention the expense of drive shafts, C&T, and link relocation/new radius arms.
The perfect coil for the 80 was what Mr. T put on at the factory, because his intentions weren't for the fat ass station wagon to be something it's not.
That said, I'll loan you a flexy coil, supply all my notes, and even out you in touch with a US supplier capable of producing whatever you engineer.
The perfect 80 coil will turn a station wagon into a rock donkey buggy, while performing like a Ferrari, on road.
Flex like a Russian gymnast even with radius arms, correct caster and pinion angle, and only cost $5 each.
Oh, and come with free shocks!!
Be hard pressed to create a market for an ideal 80 suspension with an introductory price around $800 per corner, not to mention the expense of drive shafts, C&T, and link relocation/new radius arms.
The perfect coil for the 80 was what Mr. T put on at the factory, because his intentions weren't for the fat ass station wagon to be something it's not.
That said, I'll loan you a flexy coil, supply all my notes, and even out you in touch with a US supplier capable of producing whatever you engineer.
We are currently working with a US manufacture that supplys coils that we sell in our Muscle car business. They make springs for everything from watches to huge machines so they have everything in place.
We didn't want to go to a small company or one that didn't have the ability to do runs in large or small quantities as we desired.
They also work directly with Fox. Even though fox already has an 80 shock, we have another company interested in making some tweaks and possibly introducing more of a mid level shock for those who don't want to drop big $$ on them.
We have the coil we will work off of and improve upon.
As sad as it is, because I am so dam picky, I am STILL searching for the right virgin truck to use as a baseline rig. My two 80's are both not suited for this project as they are built. We are doing a 1" for the guys that want to put life back in the suspension, DD, and want comfort on the highway, yet still do well offroad.
Next we will probably go straight to a 3" slinky.
When I said the "perfect" coil, you have to be realistic! I have read so many threads about the lack of the "right" coil that I want to give it a go. I will most likely do 3 different weight rated versions.
Yes, there are a lot of variables when it comes to weight and that is just life. Without air or a coil over to be able to adjust spring rate to your exact liking, they will be rated as close as we can get them.
The heaviest my test rig will get is what my 96 is built to:
Slee shortbus front/warn 8k
Slee sliders
Slee skids
Slee rear w swingout
ARB roof rack
It sits on 35's
I do believe I will need more than 3" in the end, maybe 4" tops. We will see. My build (suspension) I believe is similar to yours delancy.
My 96 LX is an old build with slee shortbus front, sliders, OME heavys, OME shocks and that's it. But I use it, and abuse it on my ranch so I can't tear it down and the LC just got the full axle rebuilt/regear and the rest of the parts are on the shelf so that's why i'm after a stock, locked (because I don't see the point in paying the same $ for an open truck) rig.
Plus a fresh, virgin truck will prove the performance of my parts better than something with all new suspension under it, a lot of guys can't dump that kind of $ into bushings ect.
I'm open to any helpful suggestions you have from your own experience with different coils and shocks you have ran.
I am NOT doing this to try and get rich lol, i'm just a picky guy that wants to get the best out of everything! I'm used to selling 10k-20k suspension packages for 69 Camaros, I HOPE nobody would spend near that on a 3-6k truck! But, I love these slow, heavy piggs, they are fun offroad with the whole family! (LS power coming soon to fix the "slow" issue!)
Matt
We didn't want to go to a small company or one that didn't have the ability to do runs in large or small quantities as we desired.
They also work directly with Fox. Even though fox already has an 80 shock, we have another company interested in making some tweaks and possibly introducing more of a mid level shock for those who don't want to drop big $$ on them.
We have the coil we will work off of and improve upon.
As sad as it is, because I am so dam picky, I am STILL searching for the right virgin truck to use as a baseline rig. My two 80's are both not suited for this project as they are built. We are doing a 1" for the guys that want to put life back in the suspension, DD, and want comfort on the highway, yet still do well offroad.
Next we will probably go straight to a 3" slinky.
When I said the "perfect" coil, you have to be realistic! I have read so many threads about the lack of the "right" coil that I want to give it a go. I will most likely do 3 different weight rated versions.
Yes, there are a lot of variables when it comes to weight and that is just life. Without air or a coil over to be able to adjust spring rate to your exact liking, they will be rated as close as we can get them.
The heaviest my test rig will get is what my 96 is built to:
Slee shortbus front/warn 8k
Slee sliders
Slee skids
Slee rear w swingout
ARB roof rack
It sits on 35's
I do believe I will need more than 3" in the end, maybe 4" tops. We will see. My build (suspension) I believe is similar to yours delancy.
My 96 LX is an old build with slee shortbus front, sliders, OME heavys, OME shocks and that's it. But I use it, and abuse it on my ranch so I can't tear it down and the LC just got the full axle rebuilt/regear and the rest of the parts are on the shelf so that's why i'm after a stock, locked (because I don't see the point in paying the same $ for an open truck) rig.
Plus a fresh, virgin truck will prove the performance of my parts better than something with all new suspension under it, a lot of guys can't dump that kind of $ into bushings ect.
I'm open to any helpful suggestions you have from your own experience with different coils and shocks you have ran.
I am NOT doing this to try and get rich lol, i'm just a picky guy that wants to get the best out of everything! I'm used to selling 10k-20k suspension packages for 69 Camaros, I HOPE nobody would spend near that on a 3-6k truck! But, I love these slow, heavy piggs, they are fun offroad with the whole family! (LS power coming soon to fix the "slow" issue!)
Matt
