expedition build up of my 1990 pickup.

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I already have a set of ARB torsion bars ordered, I figured if I could crank them up about a inch that would lift the front enough to put on a set of 33's , I will have to check out a full 2 inch lift kit.

Any ways I took yesterday off to round up some parts but Desert Rat in Tempe is absolutely the slowest folks I have been to yet, they are great guys but getting parts takes a long time...
I did get my new seats in, I ordered a pair of cloth Corbeau Moab seats and brackets. I am not very impressed with the quality of work they do and the seats really don't fit me very well, I am trying to decide if I will return them and order a set of mastercraft wide seats. Anyone want a set of Corbeau seats? I will sell them to anyone on here for $600, thats $100 less then I paid for them.I would trade for a set of mastercraft style seats.

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I had to cut and re weld the seat brackets, they were about 5 inches too high for me, I am a big guy and 6'3", I had to open the sunroof to be able to sit in them :whoops:

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Here is what Corbeau calls direct bolt in, I paid $65 per seat mount and the holes don't even come close to matching up.

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I was able to find some good bargins on audio stuff. The stereo that was in the truck worked ok but it was 19 years old and still had a cassete player with a remote 6 disk changer and in dash EQ. I wanted something a little updated and I really like sattalite radio too.

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Thanks to craigslist I found some other great deals. A 55 watt solar panel with new charge controller, new in the box 1200 watt power inverter, older 400 watt power inverter, some RV utility doors. I am hopefully going to get a bunch of work done on the camper this weekend.

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Looks like some nice scores on the other gear. The seats, however, would probably be best sent back. You can find some better seats that'll fit you better. On the other hand, being such a giant in stature (I'm a half foot shorter than you, so you're a giant to me :hillbilly:), you might want to try locating something that would comfortably fit you. I don't know much about after market seats because Wet Okole's shop is only about an hour and a half away from me so I can always take my truck to them for a more accurate install. I've heard tell of seats from Supras being put into Trucks though. Might be another source for possible cheap comfy seats.
 
I've also heard of Mazda Miata seats being used. Be careful of the thickness of the seat back. That can quickly make you sit to upright. Changing seats is something I've got on the list to do. Mine have 250,000 miles on them and aren't as good as they were.
 
I have similar ideas with my '86 as you do with you '90. https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/252368-try-2-1986-extra-cab-4x4.html I have a 16' bayliner, and love fishing around long barn, ca, eagle lake, and in central california. Plus, I like to run the Rubicon, Fordyce, Dusy, and drive hundreds of miles offroad. Mine will end up being more 'extreme' than yours, but It seems like we have similar goals.

I have been running 5.29's and 31's. I run about 3400 rpm's on the highway, and don't worry about it much. With 4.10's and 31's, I was always in 4th gear, or about 3200 rpm's as I would regularly bog the engine. I never worry about the 22re.

Or, try swapping to some 33x10.5" tires. They would be a perfect match for the 4.88 gears.

For the seats, your pretty much SOL. The Corabeu's aren't the most comfortable. Mastercrafts will be too close to the steering wheel. The best option for you is OEM bucket seats. I was lucky and my '86 had a very nice pair of buckets in it already. Downside is that that the bucket of the OEM seat is too short for me (i'm 5'11"). They also gave me the ability to throw a tuffy console in the center.

The only other option you may want to look at is Best Top Jeep seats. They are very comfortable for the price.

I decided I am going to do a SFA over keeping the IFS because of alignment issues. Every time I drive down a dirt road in 4wd, the steering wheel is crooked. I lost 50% of tread on my front tires in 5,000 miles. I never had this problem with my old '85. Combine that with the higher durability of the SFA, and it is a no-brainer.
 
I am having a rough time deciding what to do with the suspension, I have found a stock '85 solid front axle for $200 and I was ready to buy it and do the SAS but as I figured in the other cost and compared it to a long travel IFS kit , I think I will just keep the IFS. I have found a really nice "85 4runner and I even considered just scraping this project and selling it and buying a 4runner but I have already ordered a bunch of parts for this truck that haven't arrived yet.
So considering what I am going to be useing this truck for I had to write down the pros and cons and of the IFS. here is some of my reasons for keeping IFS.
Daily driver, lots of pavement time
Already has a ARB installed in front
This is NOT a rockcrawler,
No gear change needed
no special fabrication/welding needed to install long travel kit

If I did do a SAS I would need :
Axle $200
SAS kit $1400
Rear lift kit $650
Front re-gear to 4.88
Front locker
someone to install gears and weld on spring hangers

So I have pretty much narrowed my options to a Downy or Total Chaos kit. Downey uses longer 4340 axle shafts that route from the original equipment outer birfield CV joints to Downeys new 930 Porsche inner CV joints, So the inner Cv joints should hold up well to a 4 cylinder but the I am concerned with the OE outers.
Tota Chaos uses T100 axles, eliminates the torsion bar completely by useing coil over shocks. My thought on this kit is by useing 1/2 ton axles and coil over shocks the ride should be awesome and be able to handle offroad driving without breaking anything.
I did hit some yard sales and more craigslist specials yesterday. I scored a pair of new in the box Procomp HID 9" lights for few hundred bucks and a new in the box Warn 8000 winch for $500, also found a roll of automotive carpet for the bed, some scrap plywood, 12 volt lights and a few other odds and ends I will be able to use on this truck. I did return the Corbeau seats and for right now I am useing the bench seat again. I still have the corbeau seat brackets because I cut and welded them, anyone want a pair of brackets? $50 plus the ride.
Now all I need is some time to get this thing built!! :cheers:
 
Thanks for all the input on the front axle, I have decided I will keep the IFS and give it a whirl, if I continuely break stuff then SAS time.

So on to some more truck porn :popcorn:


I looked at all kinds of front winch bumpers, I have used ARB in the past with good luck but I wanted something that everybody else dosen't have so I checked out some custom made stuff but for the price I decided on a Warn bumper. I had the old style Warn bumper on a old Blazer and it was nothing more then cheap tin and a place to mount a winch, the new bumpers they make and actually beefier then ARB !

Check out the mounting brackets.

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I was not very impressed with thier instructions and the parts kit was missing the nuts to reattach the lights. overall very nice bumper and it cost about $200 less then ARB. This was a fairly easy install but took longer then it should, too many steps to get it to fit just right.

here are few more installation pics.


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I was able to finish the install tonight and mounted a Warn 8K winch, fits really nice. I also got my wheels on, it took Desert Rat 3 weeks to get the right wheels, they really dropped the ball with my parts. I dont know if I will do any more buisness with them.

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Next up on my to do list is install 2 Pro comp HID lights, I hooked one to the battery to see if they were really worth the money and all I can say is WOW!! I will have them hooked up tomarrow and take some pics to show how much light they produce.
I also have a auxillary fuel tank ready to mount, some cool electronics for the camper portion, and some stuff for the cab. I will be pretty busy this weekend but I will post up more pics as my progress continues.


:beer:
 
Just stubbled upon this tread. Really cool write-up and very different. I love seeing a different approach to an expedition type build or any build for that matter.:cheers:
 
Cool camper shell idea. Looking forward to seeing how you build it.
 
I finally had a day off and a chance to get a few things done on my truck. I finished mounting the winch bumper and winch. I like how this bumper looks clean and I don't have the big push bar in front like the ARB bumper.
I installed 2 Procomp HID 9" lights, they are very bright and worth what I paid but I wouldn't pay full retail for them. I found them at 4 wheelers parts here in Mesa on sale for buy one get one free plus they were having a storewide 25% off sale so both lights out the door were just under $500, yes a lot of money but I didn't want more then 2 lights but I wanted the brightness of several and these things only draw around 2 amps.

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I installed a auxillery fuel tank today also, it holds a extra 13.5 gallons and tucks up real nice were the spare tire was, this particular tank allows the tire to be remounted back underneath but mine is going on the roof.
I ordered my tank direct from the manufacture, Northwest metal products, they are extremly helpful and they can build custom tanks. Overall this was a easy install, it took me , by myself, about 4hours. The kit comes with step by step instructions and a hand drawn diagram:eek:
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The tank fits very well and dosen't hang down low at all, very nice!

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The filler neck istalls in the rear fender well, there is plenty of room with the tire on but I may find a different way to mount it.


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The kit had everyhting needed to install the tank, but in the directions it says to drill a hole in the fenderwell and bolt the filler neck there, but no matter how I positioned the fillerneck I couldn't get the mounting tab to match up to any place I could bolt it to , so I just use a small piece of flat stock and bolted it the iner fenderwell.

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The hardest part of this entire install was cutting the stock fill vent hose and putting the tee in. It is a pretty tight fit.

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I have started working on the camper as well, just waiting on some parts to get here and it will start coming together pretty fast. My camper will have a water tank, power inverter, solar panel, fridge, propane tank and a few other gadgets. I am hinged on getting a roof top tent, I have a really nice ground tent already and I don't realy want a lot of wieght on the roof.
 
If you're still looking for seats, try some buckets out of a 2nd Gen 4Runner. I put some into my 90 pickup and they are almost a direct bolt in. I drilled two holes each side, one for the seat and one for the seat belt. The SR5 Seats are very nice.
 
Watch out, I have that same tank for my '86. Its a gravity feed tank, which isn't safe or DOT approved. If you somehow catch that fuel line, all the fuel will leak out of the tank. With a DOT approved tank, you would only loose the fuel in the line.

I found out after I bought it, and am now retrofitting in a stock fuel pump/sending unit, and using a ford transfer switch.

Its a horrible design, and I have no idea why they still make them that way.

Also, is there any way you could take a picture of how the tank mounts? I bought mine used (no instructions), and it looks like it gets mounted to the floor of the bed.
 
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Watch out, I have that same tank for my '86. Its a gravity feed tank, which isn't safe or DOT approved. If you somehow catch that fuel line, all the fuel will leak out of the tank. With a DOT approved tank, you would only loose the fuel in the line.

I found out after I bought it, and am now retrofitting in a stock fuel pump/sending unit, and using a ford transfer switch.

Its a horrible design, and I have no idea why they still make them that way.

Also, is there any way you could take a picture of how the tank mounts? I bought mine used (no instructions), and it looks like it gets mounted to the floor of the bed.

Looking at it it also does not look like it has a fuel expansion buffer.:eek: I'd hate to fill it full in a cold area then drive to a warm area. The buffers are there for a reason.
 
I finished up the aux. fuel tank today, my first impression with this tank is it is solid but I think a tranfer pump would make a a good product better. The filler neck actually fits very nice in the inner fender well and the fuel is gravity fed to the bottom of the stock tank, I will most likely wire in a transfer pump. This tank is the same as Downey sells but they referred me to the manufacture,Northwest Metal Products, when I called them the first question they asked is what state I lived in. These tanks are not legal in California it is even painted on the tank. I don't know if Arizona emission laws will give me any problem with it or not, I don't have to worry about emission testing for 2 years and it fails I will just remove it and reinstall afterwards.

Here are more pics of the tanks and install.

installed it sits up really high
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Here is the stock tank fill plug, I cut a big hole in the bottom of the skid plate so if I have any repairs to do I will not have to drop the skid plate.
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The tank bolts to the bed rails, there is just enough room to fit a bolt and flat wrench to bolt it all together.
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The only issues I had with this install was the filler neck would not bolt to were the directions indicate, so I just used some flat stock and bolted it to where the mud flap bolts to.
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Here is the top quality instruction sheet they included.
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The rear of the exhaust sits really close to the tank, I will take it off and have it rebent to clear the tank better.
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I did some work on the camper, the side box looked pretty bad but a coat of paint and some carpet cleaned thngs up real nice.
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I wanted all my electrical stuff in one area. I decided after several hours of changing my mind the back of the camper would be the best place for the entire electrical center. So far I have mounted 12 volt plugs, 1200 watt power inverter, and a waterproof box that will contain the solar controller, fridge thermometer and fuse block.
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I would seriously stick with the 4.88s. Just buy a set of 33x9.50s or 33x10.50s next time you buy tires. Your gearing will be just about perfect and that size feels small even though it's tall. I've ran 5.29s with that tire and got 20 mpg.

I also highly recommend the Emu suspension. I've ran it twice and been completely happy for expedition and light trail duty. Awesome ride without being too extreme.
 
how are things going?

Any progress on the '90? I've enjoyed watching your build.
 
I am getting alot of work done on my truck, I was going to post some pics tonight but my camera battery is dead, so I will post up more tomarrow.
I have installed a 16 gallon water tank, dual Optimas in the rear and working on a custom electrical control panel, this is definetly the most time consuming part of the entire build.

I need some advice on what type of camp stove to use. I personally don't like liquid fuel because it is very messy I also dont like the disposable propane because they are bulky and kinda exspensive. I have considered putting a small refillable propane tank inside the camper but so far I have been advised not to keep a tank in there ?? I will be sleeping in a tent away from the truck.
I am lucky the Phoenix area has a REI, Cabelas, Sportsman wharehouse and a Bass Pro shops retail stores, so I have looked at just about every kind of stove out there and basicly narrowed it down to a Brunton wind river, Jetboil Helios, or just a cheap 2 burner coleman.
I need a stove that is stable, large enough for a frypan to cook fish and 2 burners is a plus.
 
I am lucky the Phoenix area has a REI, Cabelas, Sportsman wharehouse and a Bass Pro shops retail stores, so I have looked at just about every kind of stove out there and basicly narrowed it down to a Brunton wind river, Jetboil Helios, or just a cheap 2 burner coleman.
I need a stove that is stable, large enough for a frypan to cook fish and 2 burners is a plus.

Coleman 2 burner white gas stove is your best bet, or if you want to save weight and space, get a MSR Whisper series stove. A pair of them will get you two burners and be very light. I use a funnel to fill the fuel bottle so I don't spill any. The real nice thing about the MSR is it will light and work fine at 12,000+ft and -40F unlike many other stoves.
 
Hands down, my MSR dragonfly is the best stove I have ever bought. It will run on just about anything, and burns awesome.

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I have 2 or 3 stoves, including a coleman which stays at home. They all take up too much room, and don't work as well as the MSR.
 
Cheap is nice too.

I have used a $40 Coleman propane that my wife and I bought 20 years ago, every year, never a problem. At least till last year when the manifold developed a leak and I have flame all over... so now I am restoring my gandfather's 1961 Coleman white fuel stove... I will see, but what I read, the white fuel is much better than propane... One cool thing is Coleman has, in stock, every replacement park for the 1961 stove except the grill. Another plus is their customer service, both online and on the phone, very fast, knowledable and helpful! Rare thing today.
 
Thanks for aall the info !! I narrowed my search and decided I wanted a backpacking style stove , mainly because I want to be able to keep my entire kitchen in a pelican case so I can use it on my boat too. I really liked the dragonfly stove and also the Jetboil helios but I couldn't decide on liquid fuel or canister so I found what could be the perect stove, the Brunton Vapor all fuel, this will use both butane canisters and liquid fuel, UPS should be delivering it tomarrow and I will post up some pics and let you all know if it is worth the money.
heres a link Brunton Vapor AF reviews and information - Trailspace.com


a update on my buildup-

I mounted 2 yellow top Optima batteries for a total of 110 Amp hours or power, I know I could have used a different battery and had more reserve power but, I had 2 old optimas that wouldn't hold a charge and since the nice guys at Desert Rat in Tempe dropped the ball on ordering my parts they did a warrenty exchange for the batteries so 2 Optimas for Free=:)
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I used some battery termanals made for large stereo systems, I like they have several places to attach wires, we will see if they work out or not.

I have started the electrical control panel, I'm still waiting on a few parts to arrive. so far it has the solar panel charge controller, 2 12 volt power ports, 6 gang fuse block, I will also be adding a Cyberdene digital temp gauge for fridge temp, switches for lights and remote switch for power inverter.
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I will get more in detail on the electrical when it is finished.


I also installed a 16 gallon fresh water tank.
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I made a self across the bed to cover the tank and also use as a mounting place for the water fill and hose.

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I used a stainless steel marine flush mount filler neck and a kitchen spayer hose but I think I will switch it out for a stainless shower head, I used a 2.5 gm surflo pump and it really has alot of pressure.
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I am working on a shelf for the rear doors, I found some folding hidges and a 2' shelf now I need to find a way to secure it and use small bolts rather then wood screws to hold it in place.
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****py pic but I hooked up a new stereo , replaced the old factory speakers with nice Pioneeers, and got satalite radio. you can see where I mounted my ARB switches.
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I painted the camper satin black, I like it better then white. I have been told it will be hot but here in the desert when it's 110 degrees, white or black it's still effing HOT!
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here is the rack I am putting back on. You can see the solar panell fits very nice and the spare tire holder I made, not yet decided if the hi lift will go there or not.
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Here is a ****py comparison of HID lights. first pic is hi beam headlights no camera flash.
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and the 2 Procomp HID's , also without flash.


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Next to work on is finish up the electrical and mount the fridge. I am still looking for a rear bumper. then it's time to load it up and give it a test run, I am going on vacation next week.
I listed several things in the classifieds here on mud, go check it .
 

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