I had to braze the hole up in sittu, Toyota wanted £800 just for the down pipe here in the UK, they can kiss my arse at that price LOL
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Exhaust needed welding up
- Thread starter snowwolf
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Man, what the heck is that? Looks like snot or a burnt egg.
- Thread starter
- #3
It may look like s***e, but its the only way to do a hole in an exhaust, brazing it the best way, lasts and is really strong as it is bronze, has to be done with oxy gas torch, may look s***e like you say, but no other option
had mine welded there 2 years ago. But then again we drink cold beer and our trucks don't leak.
alia176
SILVER Star
I have a very similar crack in teh crotch area. Gaining access to that area in situ is truly a PITA. Think I'm gonna take it out tonight and see if I can MIG it!
Sorry for the hijact, I need to weld my exhaust also and wanted to know if you need to pull battery or ? before welding?
Newb welder
Newb welder
yea, wasn't talking crap, just saying it's not that kind to the eye. if it works, great.
alia176
SILVER Star
I removed my downpipe last weekend and Tig welded teh entire crotch shut. I went all of the way around since I wasn't sure where the actual leak was. Even though I let it cool between the welds, the two legs still moved closer to each other. Normally when you do stuff in the crotch area, the legs go further apart 
but not in this case. Little more heat from OxyAcet and a portapower to spread the legs are back out to where they should be.
Newbie mistake
On another note, this doesn't apply much to the West coast folks but I found a fair amount of rust under two places: where the strap goes around the large, metal bracket (attached to the trans) and where the smaller strap that holds the heat shield ends together. You may want to clean this area with a wire brush if exposure to wet environment is common.
Ali
but not in this case. Little more heat from OxyAcet and a portapower to spread the legs are back out to where they should be.Newbie mistake
On another note, this doesn't apply much to the West coast folks but I found a fair amount of rust under two places: where the strap goes around the large, metal bracket (attached to the trans) and where the smaller strap that holds the heat shield ends together. You may want to clean this area with a wire brush if exposure to wet environment is common.
Ali
informationjunky said:
does not matter, the electrical system attaches to the body in many places battery connected or not, most importnat part is to put the ground on the same part you are working on or as electrically close as possible.
Thanks Raven
Junky,
As A guy who has done a lot of welding on cars and on semis, just disconnect the negative battery cable prior to starting the welding, in the case of snow wulf he brazed with a torch so not an issue, I only know of one person who has fried an ecu from welding and it was blamed on the welding not the often rollovers (87 minitruck/truggy). That being said I would pull the cable off the negative post anyways and use a wire brush to clean the area where you are going to use the ground clamp.
Dave
As A guy who has done a lot of welding on cars and on semis, just disconnect the negative battery cable prior to starting the welding, in the case of snow wulf he brazed with a torch so not an issue, I only know of one person who has fried an ecu from welding and it was blamed on the welding not the often rollovers (87 minitruck/truggy). That being said I would pull the cable off the negative post anyways and use a wire brush to clean the area where you are going to use the ground clamp.
Dave
I don't know how crazy you intend on getting on the welding projects, but another FYI that a lot of newbs don't think about is to make sure that you do not have any bearings/gears between your weld and your ground... i.e. welding shock mounts with the ground on the hub or brake rotor. That is a rough lesson to learn the hard way...informationjunky said:
