exhaust manifold hell...

[Mace]

Just the head (not that you want to do that either...)

That is why I was wondering about the liquid thread repair..

Are the threads buggered up all the way or just the outside threads??

(would a slightly longer bolt help??)

 

[lowtideride]

Im not sure, the bolt I took out was half way stripped (ya know when the edges a rolled over). When I went to put it back in it dint want to go back in anyway I tried, so I sourced a new one and got that one in, I threaded it in but it was very hard to get in since the threads were all boogerd up.


Also swung in toyota, and orderd the parts I needed for the rings and springs...60 bucks for all of it $$$$ eek. Im starting to run out of money on this project..

-Al

 

[agent orange]

Its not a cheap, quick repair but maybe you could look into getting one of those tools that are used to repair stripped spark plug holes in aluminum heads. Its got a split, theaded end that you can slip into the hole, then turn a knob at the end that forces the threaded bit of the tool outward (its kinda like a collapsable tap i guess) and then work it out from the back, fixing the threads as you go. Im assuming that that is a blind hole, but you might be able to get far enough back that you could reach clean threads to start from though.

Just an idea, finding one in metric would be the hard part.

-Matt

 

[Mace]

Chase the threads with a tap, or take a Grade 8 bolt of the same size and cut channels lengthwise (basically creating a cleaning tap)

Chase the threads with a lot of lubricant, you might be able to restore them to useable condition..

 

[Mace]

Like I said, that last bolt is not even on the older heads (although they do not seal as well) It is not an absolute necessity...

If you get the intake/exhaust matched it will be less of an issue.

SOR has the O ring exhaust rings too..

 

[Mace]

If the s*** gets too badI have a spare head (what year is your truck) that was just rebuilt, I'll swap ya if it helps..

 

[brian]

you would really need to work to pull threads in cast iron.
x2 on chase the threads, though i do suggest just getting a decent tap.


just take extreme care in getting it started square, otherwise you'll have a hell of a mess.

 

[Mace]

Getting it square is the problem, that hole is a pita to access...

 

[lowtideride]

Mace thanks for all the help, you always seem to bail me out. Dont worry about swapping heads, I dont have it in me. Its soon to be just a trail rig but thats prob at least 10-12000 miles out from being so, or when ever the hell I finish the other rig.

I have been on the computer all day so I wasnt able to source a machine shop to do the manifolds yet but I will tomorrow. I know of one but he ripped me off last time becuase I look like a punk kid I guess.

I will either rip it back apart thursday or friday to get machined...


Would it be better to replace those springs and rings before I get it machined?

 

[vtcruiser60]

Just to make a mountain out of a mole hill....perhaps this is an alternative idea...

You have a tough repair ahead if you keep the head mounted. If you pull the head, you might consider a rebuild and decking of the head while the holes are retapped. That said.... you are several hundred into machine shop bills and rebuild kits. Given this pricing, might it be cheaper and more reliable a fix to source a new used engine and swap out motors? You could still part out the short block if needed.

Just an idea....

 

[Mace]

Machining and the O rings have no bearing on each other.

I know I have spare manifolds. Been keeping a set for the new motor.

whatever helps amigo..

 

[lowtideride]

alrighty....put 300 miles on it this week.


Just pulled it apart in record time, twas leaking on both exhaust ports around the intake and the exhaust port at the end of the engine were the stripped bolt was.

Getting it resurfaced tomorrow after class, and picking up the gaskets from toyota...

also it looks like the exhaust manifold ports are in less than a 1/16th of an inch...i hope machining will take care of it...


Ill report back when I know more.....



hasta,
-Al

 

[lowtideride]

Would it be worth my time to double up the gaskets? or just install it with one?

 

[Mace]

I do but you should not need it...

FWIW

 

[60wag]

Double gaskets means twice as much material to creep. While it may help seal uneven surfaces initially, it will lose more of the the clamp stress leading to loose bolts and leaks later on. The thinner the gasket, the better it can retain clamp stress. If you're working with a warped header, you may not have many options. If you're working with a freshly flattened manifold, one gasket will work well.

 

[lowtideride]

Holy hell can my luck get any worse?


I stopped by the shop to pick them up to glance in and see them machining the one ear (end piece) on a belt sander. They guy said that the end slipped and got a big groove in it. So the end result is that they fawked up my exahust manifold and have to get a new one. Im so pissed right now...


They guy is trying weezel his way out of it, and is just trying to get the end piece from a junk yard. It looks to me like the whole thing is toast, as the intake was machined with it.

How far can the intake be machined down before it is un-useable? because it seems to me that a great deal of it has been taken off. I know this guy is going to try and dick me over....It doesnt help none that I am younger kid either.

By the end of me being there he said that he would try and weld new material on it to machined down, I told him that it would never work and he is responisble for getting me a new manifold..... He wants to source it from a junkyard, i know for a fact that no local junkyards have any fj60s in. I am sure he wont buy a new one from toyota either.

I dont know what to do at the moment, even if I do get a used exhaust manifold that still leaves me with a machined intake....and that means the they all need to be machined agian. which puts me back a square one.

I am also left with out a vehicle to get to work or class.....im truly screwed this time.

 

[lowtideride]

Does anyone know how much the intake can be machined before it is un-useable.

 

[Mace]

officially how much? I have no clue. but I would imagine quite a bit can be removed.. How much is left on there?

I can go outside and measure the thicknesses of the spare intake and exhaust manifolds that I have sitting around.


Offer still stands amigo..

 

[lifelonglove]

The machine shop should have laid the manifold down flat and put a small tack weld on the front and rear parts of the manifold at the slip joints to keep them turning. Same theory as keeping the intake bolted on. If they were trying to hold it flat while resurfacing it they were just cutting corners. I would not return if this is the case.
The last time I had mine machined they took alot out of it. I have not had a problem with. My father has been sending all his machine work to the same shop for the last 30 plus years so I trust there judgment and ability. Find a good used manifold and take it to a respected machine shop.

 

[lowtideride]

Thanks again Mace.

I called up my buddy at Kina that owns a cruisershop up north, and he is sending me a used one he has on the shops dime. Well at least thats the plan, he is shipping me one out tomorrow but the shop will hopefully pay as they said they would.


I would just like to go pick up the machined mess and have another shop do it since they fxxxed it up so bad.


Mace thanks a million man, hope to wheel with ya some day on the trails...