Exhaust manifold gaskets and pitting on surface help (1 Viewer)

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2001LC

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I'm replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets and nuts. After cleaning all surfaces in prep for new gasket I notice some mild pitting. I'm really not sure if they'll leak combustion gases or not once new gaskets in place. But out of caution, I'm consider adding a bead of high temp gasket maker. Or possible just filling pits with gasket marker and scraping flush with a razor blade.

What's your thoughts on this?
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The front exhaust pipe to manifold pipe is a different gasket. Looks like it may have a surface substance that conforms to irregular surface or mild pits.
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The front exhaust pipe to manifold pipe is a different gasket.
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Exhaust manifold to head gaskets
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It doesn't really look like it's where the sealing ring is for the exhaust gasket. I had pitting 5 times worse than that and didn't have any leaks..
 
In first three pictures of head exhaust port, you'll see a black line (black sharpy) around port. Gasket sealing surface is 1/8 to 3/8" outside of that. So some pitting is within sealing surface.

That said, your comment on pitting 5 time worse, is reassuring I don't need to worry.

Did you use new OEM gaskets and all new nuts?
 
Anyone else have experience with our exhaust manifolds?

How about you guys, what's your thoughts on using a gasket maker on gasket where none is called for by Toyota?
I’ve replaced one exhaust manifold on the 2UZ and saw similar pitting, I did not think anything abnormal of it at the time. With a new OEM gasket, the customer has not complained about any leaking since. I used new studs/nuts/and gasket.

I do think the hi-temp gasket maker is worth a shot. It wouldn’t hurt to try as long as the gasket maker is rated for the fully heat cycle that the area sees.
 
Anyone else have experience with our exhaust manifolds?

How about you guys, what's your thoughts on using a gasket maker on gasket where none is called for by Toyota?

That pitting doesn't look bad. It won't hurt to put some copper high temp gasket maker on there just to fill in the pits if you want. I used some of that stuff to seal off some V-band exhaust connections on a turbo set up that wouldn't fully seal. I used it to seal up a full on leak. It worked well. I can't say anything to the longevity of the product since I have sold the car, but I sure as hell put it to the test while I had it! ;)

I see you got new EM nuts. Good move.
 
I’ve replaced one exhaust manifold on the 2UZ and saw similar pitting, I did not think anything abnormal of it at the time. With a new OEM gasket, the customer has not complained about any leaking since. I used new studs/nuts/and gasket.

I do think the hi-temp gasket maker is worth a shot. It wouldn’t hurt to try as long as the gasket maker is rated for the fully heat cycle that the area sees.
That pitting doesn't look bad. It won't hurt to put some copper high temp gasket maker on there just to fill in the pits if you want. I used some of that stuff to seal off some V-band exhaust connections on a turbo set up that wouldn't fully seal. I used it to seal up a full on leak. It worked well. I can't say anything to the longevity of the product since I have sold the car, but I sure as hell put it to the test while I had it! ;)

I see you got new EM nuts. Good move.
GOOD INFO.

Two out of two didn't have issues so far on 2UZ exhaust, at at least not a noticeable one. That's good and in camp of no FIPG is naescary. I suppose carbon may fill small fishers (pits & scratches) over time, stopping any micro leaks. BUT IDK!

I do "overkill" error on side of caution. You've both hit the nail on the head with the real question: Will gasket marker hurt and last long in the run. Working on full on leak is impressive. Longevity is a big question as I'm all striving for "life" of 2UZ, which is more than 1 million miles.

This stuff is the top shelf "Optimum", which states: "-65 to 700 deg F intermittent", and according to Permatex tech support; is rated at 650 F continuous. Being a silicone it will always be slightly pliable allowing for movement (expansion and contraction). With a 7 year life expected in ideal condition.

That said; Toyota does not have any exhaust FIPG, using only gaskets. I cringes everytime I find FIPG on water inlet O-ring, it's a bad practice some shop even Toyota/Lexus shop use. Or all the way around a valve cover gasket, not cool. However using 1282B FIPG on block or head pitting under gaskets of coolant areas is acceptable.

Many in rust belt must have done this sort of exhaust gasket modification, which I really like to hear some long term testimonials from.

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Owned 6 100/LX series (99-06) and never exhaust issues:meh: Hope this does not come back and haunt me.:eek:
Must be the dry heat
 
No need for sealant, you have cleaned it well enough so the new gaskets should fill the pitts after it has heated up. Just re torque bolts after a few heat cycles. I know the sealant is sensor safe, but I have never used any sealant Pre Cat.
 
I replaced both my exhaust manifolds and new gaskets. Had the tick before. I would assume heat seals and expands the gaskets. I wouldn't/hope you haven't lost sleep over it
 
Condensation/moisture present which aids corrosion. Crevice or galvanic corrosion? I would not lose sleep over it. Just clean it up and slap on new gaskets/nuts.
 
No need for sealant, you have cleaned it well enough so the new gaskets should fill the pitts after it has heated up. Just re torque bolts after a few heat cycles. I know the sealant is sensor safe, but I have never used any sealant Pre Cat.
Head side side of gasket looks to be stainless steel, of these 4 layered gaskets. Manifold side looks black.

Are you saying the "black" has a reaction when heated, that fills the pits? If that is the case or if the black is some sort of coating, then any FIPG may react adversely.

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No, there is a certain amount of crush that forms the gasket when it is compressed when torqued up. This allows the gasket to fill the imperfections, a heat cycle aids this. That is why you should recheck the torque when cold again after a few heat cycles, not always necessary it Is just good practice.
 
Ps, it might have some kind of coating to help, not always the case. All that matters really is that the gasket is designed to be used with no added sealants, it just isn’t required.
 
The crush gasket that fit onto the down pipe(cat) are excellent in my opinion. The best gaskets I have fitted, beats the cone types. If you have ever worked on a car where they have installed the exhaust with exhaust putty, you will find that the joints will usually leak first as the exhaust putty breaks down. Some vehicles now only have the manifold gasket, the rest of the system is gasket free, they just use a metal sealing clamp over a tapered joint.
 
Owned 6 100/LX series (99-06) and never exhaust issues:meh: Hope this does not come back and haunt me.:eek:
Must be the dry heat
Most common is the cracked manifold, which you've beaten the odds already. You get to LV NV much;)

As far as exhaust manifold gaskets leaking, well I've not seen yet either.

This is not a case of exhaust leak fix. I'm swapping parts for 100 series 2UZ VVT to a long block of a GX470 2UZ VVT from WI. Exhaust manifolds are just some of what parts must be swapped to fit a 100 series. Had exhaust manifold been left undisturbed it wouldn't be an issue, at least not for a very very long time if every. So it's kind of a don't look don't know area.

Isn't the precat temp hotter than 700°
Good question, IDK. But this stuff and earlier stuff like "Copper ( 650 F)" is made for exhaust use. I wish they'd disclose continuous temp rating on the package and expected life in use..

Condensation/moisture present which aids corrosion. Crevice or galvanic corrosion? I would not lose sleep over it. Just clean it up and slap on new gaskets/nuts.
Thanks for the addvise. This engine is from WI (moisture), which I suspect is why I'm see this. Not something I normally deal with, but never looked before either. Have you dealt with it?

No, there is a certain amount of crush that forms the gasket when it is compressed when torqued up. This allows the gasket to fill the imperfections, a heat cycle aids this. That is why you should recheck the torque when cold again after a few heat cycles, not always necessary it Is just good practice.
I agree, they are designed to crush and conform to matting surfaces and minor warpage (less than .50mm).

That said; I'm also mindful that they're design for head to manifold surface on the factory floor!

Ps, it might have some kind of coating to help, not always the case. All that matters really is that the gasket is designed to be used with no added sealants, it just isn’t required.
Total agree, it is intended to use without sealant. In general, I'm against adding thing not recommend by Toyota and I've only used Toyota seals & sealant (FIPG).


The crush gasket that fit onto the down pipe(cat) are excellent in my opinion. The best gaskets I have fitted, beats the cone types. If you have ever worked on a car where they have installed the exhaust with exhaust putty, you will find that the joints will usually leak first as the exhaust putty breaks down. Some vehicles now only have the manifold gasket, the rest of the system is gasket free, they just use a metal sealing clamp over a tapered joint.
Those gasket do look good and appear (with thick pink coating on each side) designed to fill in minor pitting.

I never dealt with exhaust putty. But have used the soft asbestos gasket in the past, designed to fill pits and compensate for moment (expansion). Those work good.


This pitting is minor and a sealant would probably not be necessary in this case. The most encouraging post was from @rockcrawlingyota stating he had five times worst without issue when he changed gasket.

I'm curous as to why you replace your gasket @rockcrawlingyota in the first place?

I'm hopeful, more will come forward and share their experience, especially from rust belt. Whereas this 06 engine is not bad, I can see where older engine from rust belt and salt water areas could be very bad if exhaust manifold removed and heads cleaned-up.
 
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I asked because I don't know normal this one. I thought I saw 367° C constant on techstream. I could be wrong.
I have no experience on this engine, but I wouldn't put anything on either surface, naturally aspirated or otherwise.
 

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