My OEM Y-Pipe on my 1995 LC broke (150K). I got all four nuts free from the cast iron collector studs last night on the LC. However, one stud broke off, but the stem of it is still there to grab on to. The other three studs are stripped at the tip on the stud, but still functional for a new Y-pipe. But all of the studs are bad. Ideally they probably should all be replaced. Right now, I just want to get the broken stud out of that exhaust collector so I could replace my Y-Pipe. Might go with EMS exhaust. All of the studs seem to have been "screwed in" though into the collector. I used a lot of heat and PB blaster to remove the nuts. But what the actual studs? Were they reverse threaded from Toyota? I dont think I can just tap them out. Anyone have advice or taken out these studs before from the collector?
exhaust manifold collector studs removal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mystican
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those suck.
You have not used enough heat. They will break free eventually.
For the two that snapped on mine, I welded a new nut to the exposed end of the stud, using a size that would slip partially onto the end of the stud. And by welded I mean turned it to full blast and heated the nut/stud until they were glowing and starting to sag under the influence of gravity. HOT is the goal. That was the only thing that ever got them to break free, no amount of spray, pipe wrenches, or cussing moved them. They backed right out after that.
You might have to start the weld to the nut with a few tacks just to make sure that the current/heat is going to the stud too, otherwise you just make a blob insight the nut that does not really attach to the stud.
You have not used enough heat. They will break free eventually.
For the two that snapped on mine, I welded a new nut to the exposed end of the stud, using a size that would slip partially onto the end of the stud. And by welded I mean turned it to full blast and heated the nut/stud until they were glowing and starting to sag under the influence of gravity. HOT is the goal. That was the only thing that ever got them to break free, no amount of spray, pipe wrenches, or cussing moved them. They backed right out after that.
You might have to start the weld to the nut with a few tacks just to make sure that the current/heat is going to the stud too, otherwise you just make a blob insight the nut that does not really attach to the stud.
What Jeffro said. If theyre so rusty that the nuts broke the studs off, they're not coming out unless you get them super hot.
If you don't have a welder, it's time to get some help at a good machine shop or really good mechanics shop. Phone first.
If you don't have a welder, it's time to get some help at a good machine shop or really good mechanics shop. Phone first.
Welding a nut on them or just welding on them so the studs get red hot works. If you take it to a machine shop, it is what they will most likely do because it is fast and it works. If you don't have a welder, this is a good time to get a $100 Lincoln AC buzz box off of Craigs list and save the money you would pay the machine shop. Even a rookie can weld a nut on to a broken stud, but practice on a few first. Use 7018 rod as it doesn't stick as well to cast iron in this application as 6011 because of the heavy flux.
I had a stud break, but, like you, had enough to grab on to. Apparently, I didn't use enough heat and the stud broke flush. iI was able to drill it out, but it took a while. See post #14 for details: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...er-catalytic-converter-y-pipe-done-bosal.html
In hindsight, like others have said, I should have welded on a nut with as much heat as possible.
In hindsight, like others have said, I should have welded on a nut with as much heat as possible.
i would go buy some pb blaster. and soak the studs for a couple of days and then try to unsrew the broken one with some vice grips.
when i did decided to do my head gasket a couple of monthes previous i would spray the studs with some pb whenever i remembered every couple of weeks or so. when it came time to break them loose i used a 3/8 breaker bar and a mouse could have farted on the end of the bar and they would have unsrewed.
when i did decided to do my head gasket a couple of monthes previous i would spray the studs with some pb whenever i remembered every couple of weeks or so. when it came time to break them loose i used a 3/8 breaker bar and a mouse could have farted on the end of the bar and they would have unsrewed.
It isn't just heat; it is heating them to red hot so that the metal shrinks when it cools that makes it easy to get them out.
You need to heat it above the austenitic 1 (A1) phase transition temperature, which is roughly 1300F.
You need to heat it above the austenitic 1 (A1) phase transition temperature, which is roughly 1300F.
1973Guppie
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you may want to try getting some map gas from home depot, heat that SOB up red hot and hit it with some pb blaster, (careful you don't breath fumes in), do that 3 or 4 times and it may break loose.
Noah
Noah
after soaking them for 6 days with pb blaster i hope they came loose.
Hi folks,
I know it's been over 6 months but somehow I am having an EXACT situation as mystican did.
The broken stud I have is long enough to hold a nut but I had to tap the broken end of the stud. But I doubt it will last long. It's hard to find a nut with good strength as the original but as a makeshift. I did not want to use an impact wrench to tight it up being afraid it might strip the thread again, but the problem is some sort of leaking occurred because it's not tight enough. To get a peace of mind, just do what Jeffro109 said, heat it up and take it out.
One question for you though. I used propane/oxy, not even acetylene, to test taking out a broken bolt out of a nut, but the bolt almost melted with the nut, which might make it harder to take it out. So as I heat, I'll have to heat the stud only, not the collector? Right?
Please advise.
Thanks in advance.
I know it's been over 6 months but somehow I am having an EXACT situation as mystican did.
The broken stud I have is long enough to hold a nut but I had to tap the broken end of the stud. But I doubt it will last long. It's hard to find a nut with good strength as the original but as a makeshift. I did not want to use an impact wrench to tight it up being afraid it might strip the thread again, but the problem is some sort of leaking occurred because it's not tight enough. To get a peace of mind, just do what Jeffro109 said, heat it up and take it out.
One question for you though. I used propane/oxy, not even acetylene, to test taking out a broken bolt out of a nut, but the bolt almost melted with the nut, which might make it harder to take it out. So as I heat, I'll have to heat the stud only, not the collector? Right?
Please advise.
Thanks in advance.
I know the heat usually works, but when I did my exhaust we soaked it for a few days with the pb blaster then right before we used a stud removal socket on it we hit it with that freeze stuff, and mine came right out............only had one that gave us trouble.
it was in the isle with the gasket maker stuff
doug
it was in the isle with the gasket maker stuff
doug
