Discovered that my exhaust heat control valve is stuck. What's the best way dry deal with this?
Robert
Robert
Exhaust heat control valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1962fj40
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Is this the heater control valve on the bulkhead?
- Thread starter
- #3
No, it's the heat control valve in the exhaust manifold. It brings warm air to the intake manifold during cold starts. From what I read, it helps with fuel atomization until the engine is warmed up.
After looking at the manual closer, it looks like I might be able to disassemble it enough to free it up.
Robert
- Thread starter
- #4
It's the assembly on the left side. Parts D through H
Ahh i see. Seems like there are quite a few threads to be found with a bit of searching.
The sticking leads to a cracked inlet manifold as I understand which gives you a lot more problems.
Seems like there is a blanking plate solution to separate the two manifolds.
Otherwise I guess strip it apart carefully and clean everything and reassemble.
Not sure if this helps..
forum.ih8mud.com
The sticking leads to a cracked inlet manifold as I understand which gives you a lot more problems.
Seems like there is a blanking plate solution to separate the two manifolds.
Otherwise I guess strip it apart carefully and clean everything and reassemble.
Not sure if this helps..
Need help with my exhaust manifold setup
I believe the exhaust manifold heat riser should work like this: At my setup, the heat riser was set as in picture B in the cold engine. Also, the heat riser controller spring is on the right side of the pipe (most pictures show it on the left side). At first, I thought someone reinstalled it...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #6
Pulled it all apart today. Here are a few pics. Hopefully, I can manage yo free up the pin assembly on the host valve.
- Thread starter
- #7
Anyone know where I can get the heat riser gasket for a 1962 FJ40 F engine? It looks to be a copper gasket. It is a 4 hole gasket. All other years seem to be a 3 or 5 hole gasket.
Robert
Robert
That's going to be a satisfying cleaning job - I bet that looks great when you've finished.
If all else fails you can easily make one at least from soft copper sheet.
If all else fails you can easily make one at least from soft copper sheet.
- Thread starter
- #9
I sure hope so. I'm hoping my sand blaster will do a good job at cleaning most of it up. And then a good coating of high heat paint. Some copper sheet was my thought as well.
Robert
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The same thing happened to me as well. I glass beaded the manifold and parts and discovered the parts were distorted from the exhaust gasses they were not good to re install. The parts were still available 10 years ago but I do not know if they are still available. I know some people removed all the heat riser parts and machined the holes to accept NPT fittings and go without it.
Not sure by any means but given the history of the Toyota inline 6 being inspired from GM's work you could try a Chevy Stovebolt one which looks similar - 1950-1962 Engine Manifold Gasket Intake to Exhaust 235 and 261 Chevrolet and GMC Pickup Truck - https://oldchevytrucks.com/me3671.html.
tahoe40/45
SILVER Star
This is another option. You can make your own.
COLLECTOR/CONNECTOR Flange Exhaust Gasket
REMFLEX EXHAUST GASKETS are extra thick and compressable. REMFLEX gaskets fill voids on warped header flanges and exhaust manifolds. REMFLEX gaskets are good to 3000 degrees. REMFLEX gaskets won't burn out. No retorquing required with REMFLEX GASKETS.
catalog.remflex.com
CHU TOY
SILVER Star
TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
REMFLEX EXHAUST GASKETS are extra thick and compressable. REMFLEX gaskets fill voids on warped header flanges and exhaust manifolds. REMFLEX gaskets are good to 3000 degrees. REMFLEX gaskets won't burn out. No retorquing required with REMFLEX GASKETS.
catalog.remflex.com
I plasma'd out the heat flapper on two of my trucks, drilled and tapped the holes for set screws. Granted mine are 2F's, but the process should work fine for your F manifold. No issues with cold starts, freer flowing exhaust and a throatier sound. No more worrying about the flapper getting stuck and overheating my intake.
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- Thread starter
- #15
OK, I finally managed to remove the valve assembly. P.O. spot welded the butterfly valve to the shaft (Looks like the single screw broke off), so some filing and light die grinder work was needed to get it all removed. Luckily, no damage was done to the mating surfaces. The million dollar question:
Should I try to re-use these pieces?
Robert
Should I try to re-use these pieces?
Robert
Well done getting them out. I bet that was a battle.
Given the potential to crack the manifold if it fails, I think I'd be reluctant to put them back. Probably be inclined to bag up the parts with a bit of oil, and set them aside in case the next owner is more obsessed with originality than reliability.
Given the potential to crack the manifold if it fails, I think I'd be reluctant to put them back. Probably be inclined to bag up the parts with a bit of oil, and set them aside in case the next owner is more obsessed with originality than reliability.
You did a good job of cleaning up the original parts. I would keep them as what @45Dougal has said. I have been through this and was told by very knowledgeable people that after gasoline went "unleaded", the exhaust gases became a destroyer for many things such as movable parts, valve seals etc.. So, even with NEW parts , the unleaded gas is still here. Valve seals have become " hardened", so that is ok. Been there. I cannot say how many years it takes for this chemistry to work, but I have removed all of those parts and threaded and use NPT for exhaust. Actually , it seems there is not much need for cold anymore as well. It is 110 Degrees here today.
- Thread starter
- #19
i have qty x 2 of these
PERFECT FLAT NOS oem toyota
- DO have all 3 sandwich bolts NOS too if u need them ?
- i do have 1 NOS siamese F the manifold things that turns like a wing nut to compress the two ......fyi
- i DO have ANY manifold fitting or DELETE plug OEM you could ever dream of .....
- now have this too made ein japan
water pump or cyl head mounting too ....
this is TITZ and will not disappoint ........
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