Exhaust heat control valve (1 Viewer)

[1962fj40]

i have qty x 2 of these

PERFECT FLAT NOS oem toyota

- DO have all 3 sandwich bolts NOS too if u need them ?

- i do have 1 NOS siamese F the manifold things that turns like a wing nut to compress the two ......fyi

- i DO have ANY manifold fitting or DELETE plug OEM you could ever dream of .....


- now have this too made ein japan

water pump or cyl head mounting too ....

this is TITZ and will not disappoint ........




..

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https://vintageteqparts.com/products/the-ultimate-cats-meow-cylinder-head-early-threaded-water-pump-outlet-heater-shut-off-valve-hose-bib-fitting-assy-100-made-in-japan-chrome-plated-main-body-all-brass-intern

View attachment 3384827
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Matt, let me know if you can source the 4 bolt gasket. If it helps my siamese intake/exhaust has FJ25 stamps on it.

 

[red66toy]

Nice work getting that valve apart! They get very fragile over time. The only way I was able to free mine up for operation was an electrolysis bath to remove rust and then heat and gentle hammering. Now it works great and I periodically lube it with high heat anti seize. I used the remflex gasket and it’s worked perfect by the way.

 

[1962fj40]

Nice work getting that valve apart! They get very fragile over time. The only way I was able to free mine up for operation was an electrolysis bath to remove rust and then heat and gentle hammering. Now it works great and I periodically lube it with high heat anti seize. I used the remflex gasket and it’s worked perfect by the way.

Penetrating oil, flat filing, some heat, light hammering and light grinding until it finally came out. The PO spot welding the butterfly valve was the biggest issue.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Penetrating oil, flat filing, some heat, light hammering and light grinding until it finally came out. The PO spot welding the butterfly valve was the biggest issue.

i DO NOT have the 4 hole gasket , i tripple checked ....

sorry ,,,

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Penetrating oil, flat filing, some heat, light hammering and light grinding until it finally came out. The PO spot welding the butterfly valve was the biggest issue.

- see these Krusty and Rusty sad souls here below , take a close hard look at the male threads at the tips / ends ...

- then see how you apply my T-TEN philosophy of using modern OEM materials with a purist based mind-set approach in the field , successfully from the aid of the JIS torx hand drive install feature ends , the TOP SECERT OEM mystery orange
dry stuff that cake on in japan , that liquifies the moment friction turns the heat up a tad , acts as a lubricant of sorts , like adding drops of oil on head bolts threads upon final install , then re-forms into a long -term ANTI-SEIZE that aids in long term corrosion control between CAST IRON and super HIGH carbon Alloy infused BOMB PROOF steel that makes up the metallurgy of this stud i show below . i swear by these and have indeed seen the long term proof and benifiet upon a needed removal years later .....

- the 2 special OEM self locking flange nuts , allow you to loose l the whole silly and now outdated use of 2 spring washers and 2 simple hex nuts , as a whole TOYOTA has completely 100% shifted away from any 2-part hex nut and spring washer set up , and superseded that HEX nut to a modern age FLANGE nut or the nerwish super KILLER KOOL SEMS nuts i now see more and more on the new stuff toyota is doing ....

- there are exceptions to the whole spring washer outdated rule , i would NEVER personally change the OEM water pump hex bolt and spring washer set up in any way , a FLANGE bolt here would be a poor and stupid choice on F , 2F up till 4/86 when TOYOTA changed the thread pitch on that detail ......

- in this case the Rocket Science is the real McCoy , and well there made in JAPAN of course ...


-

 

[1962fj40]

Update on the heat riser gasket. I was planning on making my own with Remflex material until I learned they still produce a full Siamese manifold gasket set as well as the Heat Riser gasket set.

Full set

TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket

REMFLEX EXHAUST GASKETS are extra thick and compressable. REMFLEX gaskets fill voids on warped header flanges and exhaust manifolds. REMFLEX gaskets are good to 3000 degrees. REMFLEX gaskets won't burn out. No retorquing required with REMFLEX GASKETS.

catalog.remflex.com

Heat Riser gasket

TOYOTA Header/Exhaust Manifold Gasket

REMFLEX EXHAUST GASKETS are extra thick and compressable. REMFLEX gaskets fill voids on warped header flanges and exhaust manifolds. REMFLEX gaskets are good to 3000 degrees. REMFLEX gaskets won't burn out. No retorquing required with REMFLEX GASKETS.

catalog.remflex.com

Robert

 

[Spike Strip]

The heat riser spring replacement:

Chevy Parts » Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Spring (Thermostat)

Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Spring (Thermostat) - This is the heat riser spring for the exhaust manifold.

www.chevsofthe40s.com

 

[1962fj40]

The heat riser spring replacement:

Chevy Parts » Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Spring (Thermostat)

Exhaust Manifold Heat Riser Spring (Thermostat) - This is the heat riser spring for the exhaust manifold.

www.chevsofthe40s.com

Thanks, but with a $18.00 + $22.00 shipping, I think we can do better.

Robert

 

[1962fj40]

Found a Jeep Willys heat riser spring on Ebay. One or the other company probably copied the design from the other years ago.

$12.19 including shipping

For Jeep Willys GPW MB CJ2A CJ3A M38 L134 Heat Riser Spring G503 G740 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for For Jeep Willys GPW MB CJ2A CJ3A M38 L134 Heat Riser Spring G503 G740 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Robert

 

[Spike Strip]

That's the one I was looking for (the J**p) but couldn't find it.

 

[1962fj40]

So I'm toying with the idea of rebuilding the heat valve with something that won't rust easily. I'm thinking of a oillite brass bushing with a stainless shaft and reusing parts that are not easy to replace or find. Seems those two combined with the cast iron manifold should have minimal galvanic interaction. Any thoughts?

Robert

 

[45Dougal]

So I'm toying with the idea of rebuilding the heat valve with something that won't rust easily. I'm thinking of a oillite brass bushing with a stainless shaft and reusing parts that are not easy to replace or find. Seems those two combined with the cast iron manifold should have minimal galvanic interaction. Any thoughts?

Robert

A brief search suggests a limited temperature range - I guess the lubricant boils out?

How about graphite, or a graphite lubricated metal Bush?

 

[MatthewMcD]

While working on replacing my remote oil filter lines I discovered that the exhaust heat control valve is just a rusted spring and nothing else. Short of removing the manifold, a project I am not ready for, what is the "wide open" position for this valve and can it be determined externally? I'd like to ensure it's "frozen open" as opposed to "frozen closed".

Cheers

 

[red66toy]

If the weight is in a more vertical position, it’s in the “Cold” position and deflecting heat to the intake. If it’s in the horizontal position, it’s in the “hot” position. If it’s stuck, it’s best to be stuck in “hot”.

 

[MatthewMcD]

If the weight is in a more vertical position, it’s in the “Cold” position and deflecting heat to the intake. If it’s in the horizontal position, it’s in the “hot” position. If it’s stuck, it’s best to be stuck in “hot”.

Thanks, I'll have to look. I'll try removing the carb to see if I can tell. If the weight is external, I think it's gone. It's all pretty rusty.

 

[red66toy]

Thanks, I'll have to look. I'll try removing the carb to see if I can tell. If the weight is external, I think it's gone. It's all pretty rusty.

You can’t see it when removing the carb. So no need for that. Is the pin that held the weight on still there? Should be the same for the pin in regards to orientation.

 

[red66toy]

 

[MatthewMcD]

Based on your video it appears mine is frozen open. Would you agree based on the position of the weight?

 

[red66toy]

Based on your video it appears mine is frozen open. Would you agree based on the position of the weight?View attachment 3482316View attachment 3482317

Yeah, looks to be stuck in cold position. I freed mine up first with an electrolysis bath, then penetrating lube, heat and hammer . I think the electrolysis bath was not truly needed. After getting the parts hot, I would hit the shaft back and forth a little until it was nice and free. Make sure to hit at the end of the shaft, never on the fragile cast iron weight. It will easily crack off.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Yeah, looks to be stuck in cold position. I freed mine up first with an electrolysis bath, then penetrating lube, heat and hammer . I think the electrolysis bath was not truly needed. After getting the parts hot, I would hit the shaft back and forth a little until it was nice and free. Make sure to hit at the end of the shaft, never on the fragile cast iron weight. It will easily crack off.

So vertical is "cold" and horizontal is "hot". In the video when you have the weight in the vertical position the valve appears to be open, but that is the "cold" position?

Praying this is the last thing on this rust ball, but it would explain how it drives.

Matt