EVAP Hose Connection To Intake Broken. Best Fix? (1 Viewer)

[urist]

Recently I was checking on a squeaking pulley and pulled off the air intake to get more elbow room. Through an unfortunate series of events, I broke off the nipple that the EVAP hose connects to. See photos below. I tried gorilla glueing it back in place, which held and was air-tight, but it doesn't have the structural integrity to stay in place and attach both ends of the hose (breaks back off). What's my best course of action? Finding a used intake, or should I not wory about the EVAP making its way into the intake? For now, I've covered it with shop towel as seen in images below.

Thanks.

 

[hoser]

I think something like this could work but drilling the hole without getting plastic bits inside might challenging. Perhaps pressurizing the chamber and drilling the hole from below.... drill a little at a time while letting the debris blow out.

Vibrant 10mm (2/5in) O.D. Aluminum Vacuum Hose Fitting w/ Rubber Grommet

Vibrant 10mm (2/5in) O.D. Aluminum Vacuum Hose Fitting w/ Rubber Grommet), VIB2895, Vibrant, 10mm, O.D. Aluminum, Vacuum, Hose, Fitting, Rubber, Grommet, Line, Fitting, Port, Universal

shop.boostinperformance.com

 

[Bisho]

I've repaired two of these in the past with great results. Go to the hardware store and get a brass pipe fitting with a barbed end that is the correct size for the vacuum hose. now drill the plastic housing slightly smaller than the threads on the fitting. I then threaded the fitting into the housing. I then unthread it, wrap it with some tephlon tape and put it back in there for eternity. Its much stronger than the original and you won't sweat removing that vacuum line every time you need to take off the intake tube.

 

[urist]

I think something like this could work but drilling the hole without getting plastic bits inside might challenging. Perhaps pressurizing the chamber and drilling the hole from below.... drill a little at a time while letting the debris blow out.

Vibrant 10mm (2/5in) O.D. Aluminum Vacuum Hose Fitting w/ Rubber Grommet

Vibrant 10mm (2/5in) O.D. Aluminum Vacuum Hose Fitting w/ Rubber Grommet), VIB2895, Vibrant, 10mm, O.D. Aluminum, Vacuum, Hose, Fitting, Rubber, Grommet, Line, Fitting, Port, Universal

shop.boostinperformance.com

Okay, I'll look into that. Just to check, I assume a plastic oriented JB Weld wouldn't do the trick? Just to try and avoid drilling. I don't know if there's a specific type of JB I need to use for this plastic.

 

[urist]

I've repaired two of these in the past with great results. Go to the hardware store and get a brass pipe fitting with a barbed end that is the correct size for the vacuum hose. now drill the plastic housing slightly smaller than the threads on the fitting. I then threaded the fitting into the housing. I then unthread it, wrap it with some tephlon tape and put it back in there for eternity. Its much stronger than the original and you won't sweat removing that vacuum line every time you need to take off the intake tube.
View attachment 3831698

Excellent. I'll likely take that route. I'll just be careful to remove any platic shavings from inside the chamber. Will have to think about how best to do that given the geometry of the chamber and access from the front-side main hoses.

 

[urist]

Now I see this this thread on the same topic, sorry to duplicate. Looks like others had success as well with simply an aluminum arrow shaft and JB Weld.

 

[urist]

@Bisho that worked like a charm. I did this the other night and it went smoothly. I may still add some some sealant around it to make it more air tight, but it holds strong and fit the hose well.

Notes for anyone who does this in the future:

• I used a 3/8" -> 3/8" joiner from Home Depot. They didn't have any mismatched-size joiners or I would have gotten one instead -- e.g. 1/4" -> 3/8". Reason being that the threaded side of the joiner is very large and I don't think I could have drilled a hole any larger than I did for this 3/8". Ideally the threaded end would have been 1/4" or smaller.
  • The barbed end of your joiner will need to be 3/8". This is the diameter of the hose.
• I used a stepper bit until it was large enough to thread the joiner.
  • You should use your girthiest stepper bit here. If your stepper bit is too long, you might start cutting into the plastic on the other side of the cavity.
• Put lithium grease on your stepper bit. Clean it off after each time you size up. Go slow. And maybe have a second pair of hands to run a shop vac. I'm fairly sure I cought 99% of plastic shavings doing this. The shop vac wasn't all that helpful -- mostly the grease caught shavings. I simply used headlight bulb grease.
• For good measure, you can seal off the main inlet and outlet of the intake with whatever you like and then vaccum out anything you can via your cool new brass fitting. This will force air out of the brass fitting by only allowing air to intake via the smaller fittings on the intake assembly. This was my best idea of how to double check that I'd gotten as much shavings out as possible.

Happy wrenchin'.

 

[baltistyle]

Okay, I'll look into that. Just to check, I assume a plastic oriented JB Weld wouldn't do the trick? Just to try and avoid drilling. I don't know if there's a specific type of JB I need to use for this plastic.

Plastic JB weld does work pretty well, but you still need some sort of crutch. I’ve seen some people put a straw inside and then glue it like that. I’m sure you’ve seen videos but superglue and baking soda really does work well. Otherwise, you’re gonna have to thread in a barbed fitting. If you do use glue, just remember to scratch up the surface and prep it very well.