Builds Eureka - a 1974 Factory Soft Top FJ40 preservation (4 Viewers)

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Well, I did it again. I found a rusty, derelict 40 on the internet, looked at it, and said "I can save her!"

As if the '75 sitting in my wife's late grandmother's garage in West Virginia for a decade while we've been in Oregon wasn't enough.

As if the perfectly good, mostly original '67 FJ45 LPB wasn't enough...

No, in my infinite, 3 cocktails deep browsing FB Marketplace wisdom, I found a guy parting out a 1974 FST the ad said was rusty beyond repair, looked at it and thought.... "Hmm really doesn't look that bad, wonder if what he wants for it?", and instantly fired off a string of messages, mostly to the effect of, "our definitions of 'too far gone' may be vastly different" after all, it is a one owner California truck...


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He got back to me pretty quickly, explained he had already been selling some parts from it (FST doors and tailgate already gone...*sobs* some other odds and ends, but those are the big ones), and a guy was coming for the transmission and transfer case tomorrow. Said, "fine give me a number for the rest". That number was $1500. Sold.

The thought process was, we're moving back to WV later this year, already need an entire car hauler for the fleet so it's not a big deal to toss this on the transport as well, and between this and the '75 I can have one good 40.

A couple days later I loaded up my original wheels from the 45, with good tires, picked up a uhaul dolly with the Cayenne and set off.

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Once I got it home, I immediately began tearing into it. I'm actually not disappointed with what I found.

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Yes, the floor is pretty bad.
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the rear sill is too.

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The mid bed/wings/channel are salvageable with some patching IMO, and the rear bed/fenders are almost perfect. Most importantly, the frame is crusty, but damn near immaculate otherwise. There is still a lot of good metal on this truck.

The engine (f1.5 desmogged with a Holley carb and headers) turns by hand, and I think I can get it to fire once I figure out the current no spark situation. It is a CA Emissions model, and does still have all the smog parts (except the air pump), but it's all been bypassed.

Wiring harness looks good, hooked up to battery a few things even work! (Wipers and starter, but hey that's not nothing!)

As an acolyte of the @wngrog School for Kids Who Want to Preserve Patina (I went this route with my early CJ5 Tux Park), the gears started turning. I should eventually patch the floor properly, but I can definitely patch it up well enough that the holes are covered and I wont fall through, and if I can get it running and find a trans/tc to toss in it I'll have a good little runner for a while! And the patina on the exterior looks great IMO, and who am I to erase the legacy of a one owner truck?

So that's the plan, get the engine running, patch the floor enough to support seats safely, and preserve what originality I can.
 
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Can anyone tell me what this box on the passenger fender ahead of the coil is? Has an important-ish looking plug with BR, BY, WB, and B wires going into it.

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CA Emissions related or something else? Can't find it on the wiring diagrams I have.

Chasing down my no spark situation, and this has similar color wires, so wanted to check.
 
Can anyone tell me what this box on the passenger fender ahead of the coil is? Has an important-ish looking plug with BR, BY, WB, and B wires going into it.

View attachment 3675088

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CA Emissions related or something else? Can't find it on the wiring diagrams I have.

Chasing down my no spark situation, and this has similar color wires, so wanted to check.
Congratulations on the find, especially on the decision not to erase her history! I am guessing but is the box not an early version of spark control/igniter? It likely is the cause of your no spark if your points are actually functioning and not corroded over. Have you checked for power/voltage before and after the resistor on the coil? Have you filed the points?
 
Congratulations on the find, especially on the decision not to erase her history! I am guessing but is the box not an early version of spark control/igniter? It likely is the cause of your no spark if your points are actually functioning and not corroded over. Have you checked for power/voltage before and after the resistor on the coil? Have you filed the points?

I have no clue about the box, no amount of googling has shown me the same part yet and there's no visible part number sticker on it.

As far as my lack of spark, I havent really dug into it too much. The very first thing I did was try to check for spark from the coil wire and there was none there. Im going to go through and thoroughly clean all the contacts as every is prett6 crusty, then check for power at the coil/resistor.
 
These are pretty simple circuits, just a transistor switch. I can verify function and or repair in my shop if you want to send it to me.
 
Ok so poking around a little, peeled back some loom tape to trace wires. (don't worry have the correct non-adhesive tape to replace it from when I rebuilt my 45 harness).

Here's what I found. We'll start from the ignition switch.

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The wires I'm concerned with here are

Black-yellow - ACC (key switched circuit)
Black-white - Starter.

We trace those out from the dash and into the engine bay...

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Pardon my chicken scratch, here we have the BW going from Ignition Switch to Starter Solenoid, then small BW going to Resistor

Black that came from the Ignitor to the Distributor

BY also pictured, goes straight to next picture...


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Black-yellow ( ACC circuit splits into two, one going to Resistor, one going to Ignitor)

Here we also see Black - Red from Ignitor to Coil (-), and black which goes from Ignitor to Distributor.

Ignitor plug is the following:

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Black-Red - to coil (-)
Black- Yellow- from ACC ( I'm assuming the 12v source to power this with key on )
White- Black - assuming ground?
Black - to distributor.

Does all this seem right/make sense?

Need to clean connections a bit, but everything seems in ok shape.

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Ok cleaned up points and set gap, no spark at points. Which would lead to ignitor. Should I just try to bypass the Ignitor? Take the BR off of coil (-) and just run a wire straight from coil to distributor?
 
Taking the first steps towards making my own OEM style soft top bows. I had purchased a set of hardtop door channels from a mud member several years ago because I had thoughts about making a soft top for the 45 eventually, but given that this needs a set of bows, and I don't want to spend $1500 on them, and I have the skills. I'll make my own. So I finished cutting down the hardtop sides.

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Test fit

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For the tube parts I already have some bows from a CJ3A that I hacked up to install a summer top on my CJ5. Since that has a nice new bestop on it, I'll use these and make the modifications necessary to get the right dimensions. Should be more than enough there to at least get the B and C Pillar bows done. The tie ins and middle bow I might need to get creative with.

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this reminds me a lot of my 71. Put power steering and 28's on it and have the most fun $3500 Cruiser ever
 

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