Error Code P2447 Air Injection Pump Error... (1 Viewer)

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Just FYI, I installed the Gen2 Hewitt-tech for a P2440 code, and so far so good. Truck was throwing a code after every start-up. Kit seems well made and was pretty easy to install. I was done in under 90 minutes and that includes block off plates. The passenger side plug was the hardest part, but that took me maybe 10 minutes with moving some wiring harness around. Thanks mud for pointing me in the right direction on this kit.
 
Just FYI, I installed the Gen2 Hewitt-tech for a P2440 code, and so far so good. Truck was throwing a code after every start-up. Kit seems well made and was pretty easy to install. I was done in under 90 minutes and that includes block off plates. The passenger side plug was the hardest part, but that took me maybe 10 minutes with moving some wiring harness around. Thanks mud for pointing me in the right direction on this kit.
You did better than me brother, was more like a 4 hour ordeal today, finally got it installed. Had to move main harness out of the way as well. Passenger side was a massive PIA to access.

I did the block off plates too, wasn't terrible, not the worst part of the job for sure.

Hoping my codes are gone, will know tomorrow after next cold start.
 
Hmmm… My secondary air units have been stuck for many moons…but never lead to limp mode. ?

@Markuson, or anyone else, for how long and far did you drive with the P2447? Mine isn't in limp mode and with the holidays, I don't have time to address, been using the 100 mostly but now both vehicles are needed.

Folks, Can you not just drive around with this problem till you get it addressed, assuming you don't need 4Lo?
 
@Markuson, or anyone else, for how long and far did you drive with the P2447? Mine isn't in limp mode and with the holidays, I don't have time to address, been using the 100 mostly but now both vehicles are needed.

Folks, Can you not just drive around with this problem till you get it addressed, assuming you don't need 4Lo?


Assuming you only have a P2447 (and whatever general codes related) then it sounds like you are in the "stuck closed" failure mode which is most optimal of the failures. I assume you'd be okay. If it was me, I'd want a tool to reset codes on the fly for emergencies. (OBD Fusion plus requisite OBDII adaptor or the like). This will most likely clear the code for a day or two depending on how often you cold start. AT least you will have 4-lo back and not have to look at all the lights.

Also, this is coming from someone who is not a mechanic and takes no responsibility for you or your family's safety.
 
^^^ Thanks, the P2447 is all I get. I've reset it a few times, but it comes back, so quit worrying about it. Truck drives as normal it seems, except no Lo and the dash is flashing. Since this is the wife's vehicle / only a tow rig here and there, I'll leg it out a bit.

Just don't want to put a serious road trip on it and have a progressively weird thing happen with codes, as previously mentioned.
 
^^^ Thanks, the P2447 is all I get. I've reset it a few times, but it comes back, so quit worrying about it. Truck drives as normal it seems, except no Lo and the dash is flashing. Since this is the wife's vehicle / only a tow rig here and there, I'll leg it out a bit.

Just don't want to put a serious road trip on it and have a progressively weird thing happen with codes, as previously mentioned.
I have a bypass that doesn’t really work if the temp is over 70 degrees outside. (Not the Hewitt one linked) So all summer I have to reset with OBD Fusion. I leave the wireless dongle jnstalled in OBD port. Takes about 45 sec to reset code every 2 days. One day I’ll decide that’s annoying enough to buy the more expensive bypass.
 
UPDATE: Driving with lights on since Oct. Truck runs like normal. Since emissions were coming up, the dash lights would fail me, so time have it looked at. Took to local dealer, they call me couple hrs later and say it all works fine when manually actuated. They wanted to try "cleaning the system" first, as they think there is debris or it's gummed a bit. $79.95. Sure what the hell, cheap start. They txt me 2 hrs later to come and get it, all good. Figured that was way too easy.
Drove it for 75 miles to get a cycle on it and went directly to emissions. Figure if the lights come back on after emissions, i got renewed time. 5 minutes at emissions, pass without issue. Back to normal business. 80 bucks, half a day, go figure.
 
Thanks!!! Brand new to this (any) forum so didn't intentionally mean to upset by "bumping every AIP post on mud". Just slightly panicking on this costly repair.
Any experience with the bypass kit? Not getting anywhere with the dealer/Toyota, so I decided to fix the AIP myself and have bought some of the parts. But, I'm thinking the bypass is a more permanent fix and less effort. The parts alone are more than the bypass kit.
We also opted for the Hewitt bypass kit as well as the plug in device that replicates the driver side sensor/valve, in case it was bad
as well..which was indicated with 2445…

No issues at all since with air pump issues, but now in process of rebuilding transmission…. With just under 300,000 miles on the clock… Which to us is worth the $4,000 cost….

Go with the Hewitt!
 
We also opted for the Hewitt bypass kit as well as the plug in device that replicates the driver side sensor/valve, in case it was bad
as well..which was indicated with 2445…

No issues at all since with air pump issues, but now in process of rebuilding transmission…. With just under 300,000 miles on the clock… Which to us is worth the $4,000 cost….

Go with the Hewitt!
What happened to your transmission? That sounds uncharacteristic.
 
What happened to your transmission? That sounds uncharacteristic.
I'm curious as well but 300k on an LC transmission isn't half bad, depending on the usage
 
Just happened across this thread. We have a variety of solutions for different years and code combinations. The Gen2 kit is certainly the recommended solution for any LX570. Just a quick gloss over, both Gen1 and Gen2 kits effectively stop the physical system components from operating, they just do it differently. For example, the Gen2 kit actually disconnects the air injection control driver, the pump motors and the solenoid circuits of the air switching valves. Because we are replacing the air injection driver with our unit there is no need for those circuits and we can take care of those circuit codes and prevent them in the future with the Gen2 kits.

The aftermarket parts are mostly garbage and we deal with problems they cause or don't fix daily. If you want to fix the system correctly that means factory components. While the air pumps often don't work or last long, this is especially important with the air switching valves because of the integral pressure sensors. We do have addons for the pressure sensors which do become damaged, most often by driving in limp mode for too long with valve stuck open codes. That is much more prevalent on the Tundras because of the shear number of them and most people take better care of their LX570. Basically codes caused by damaged pressure sensors, wiring or ECM are the only things the Gen2 kits can't take care of by themselves.

The Gen1 kits on the other hand can only prevent the system from running on startup and all of those components must remain connected and within proper electrical spec.
They require kit addons for the pump motor and solenoid circuits because the air injection control drivers are still actively looking at those components. The Gen1 kits cannot prevent say, your other pump motor from needing a pump pack addon in the future like the Gen2 can.

If anyone has any specific questions about your particular vehicle, codes or our solutions please feel free to tag me on the forum. However, we do prefer to talk to our customers about your particular needs and vehicle so we can suggest the best solutions to take care of your issues most efficiently and affordable the first time.

Hewitt-Tech.com
Support@hewitt-tech.com
Toll Free 1-(844)-307-7671
 
Hey there, noob here, and I hope I’m posting this in the correct spot. I’ve f this belongs somewhere else, please direct me to the correct thread or subforum.

The vehicle is an 06 GX, and this is what’s going on:

About a month ago my secondary air injection pump failed and my lights went on. Took it to my mechanic, and he ran the codes-p2445. He said I needed a new pump as well as the pump valve. He also suggested that I change the other two valves, hoses, and gaskets. Work was done with Dorman pump and valves, but two days later the lights came back on (of course my car goes into limp mode until I reset lasting anywhere from a half a day to two days).

Took it back to the shop, and my mechanic is guessing that the issue is the connectors that come from the engine to meet the ones from the new valve.

A couple of questions: what are the names or part numbers for the connectors and does the diagnosis sound plausible? He did say at least one of them was iffy when he did the work.

Any suggestions, comments, advice for is greatly appreciated. Thx
 
Yikes, "my mechanic is guessing". Time for a better mechanic that actually does diagnosis and troubleshooting.
 
Yikes, "my mechanic is guessing". Time for a better mechanic that actually does diagnosis and troubleshooting.
He’s done right by me the last 3 years (going back to my 03 Sequoia), but I don’t know that electrical is his expertise.

If he can’t fix it this week, I may have Lexus do a diagnostic.

What would you do if it was your ride?
 
Hey there, noob here, and I hope I’m posting this in the correct spot. I’ve f this belongs somewhere else, please direct me to the correct thread or subforum.

The vehicle is an 06 GX, and this is what’s going on:

About a month ago my secondary air injection pump failed and my lights went on. Took it to my mechanic, and he ran the codes-p2445. He said I needed a new pump as well as the pump valve. He also suggested that I change the other two valves, hoses, and gaskets. Work was done with Dorman pump and valves, but two days later the lights came back on (of course my car goes into limp mode until I reset lasting anywhere from a half a day to two days).

Took it back to the shop, and my mechanic is guessing that the issue is the connectors that come from the engine to meet the ones from the new valve.

A couple of questions: what are the names or part numbers for the connectors and does the diagnosis sound plausible? He did say at least one of them was iffy when he did the work.

Any suggestions, comments, advice for is greatly appreciated. Thx
That is a question for the GXOR group. They have a forum here and a massive group on FB.
 
He’s done right by me the last 3 years (going back to my 03 Sequoia), but I don’t know that electrical is his expertise.

If he can’t fix it this week, I may have Lexus do a diagnostic.

What would you do if it was your ride?
The bypass kit mentioned in this thread is available for all the 4.7/4.6/5.7 Toyota V8s (and some of the V6s I believe). The bypass kit is generally simpler/cheaper than chasing getting the system functioning again.
 
^^^ Thanks, the P2447 is all I get. I've reset it a few times, but it comes back, so quit worrying about it. Truck drives as normal it seems, except no Lo and the dash is flashing. Since this is the wife's vehicle / only a tow rig here and there, I'll leg it out a bit.

Just don't want to put a serious road trip on it and have a progressively weird thing happen with codes, as previously mentioned.
600 miles driven on my 2447

no limp mode

all
works as normal of course no 4 lo

——-

going to work on a fix now - bypasss kit
 
Fuse for the air pump is good. Air pump motor still running. I don't know what's the problem at this time.
 
Hey there, noob here, and I hope I’m posting this in the correct spot. I’ve f this belongs somewhere else, please direct me to the correct thread or subforum.

The vehicle is an 06 GX, and this is what’s going on:

About a month ago my secondary air injection pump failed and my lights went on. Took it to my mechanic, and he ran the codes-p2445. He said I needed a new pump as well as the pump valve. He also suggested that I change the other two valves, hoses, and gaskets. Work was done with Dorman pump and valves, but two days later the lights came back on (of course my car goes into limp mode until I reset lasting anywhere from a half a day to two days).

Took it back to the shop, and my mechanic is guessing that the issue is the connectors that come from the engine to meet the ones from the new valve.

A couple of questions: what are the names or part numbers for the connectors and does the diagnosis sound plausible? He did say at least one of them was iffy when he did the work.

Any suggestions, comments, advice for is greatly appreciated. Thx
The first thing anyone would need to know are what the codes are that it is throwing now. Limp mode is most often from "valve stuck open". The pump stuck off codes P2445 and/or P2447 are usually a failed air pump and don't typically cause limp mode by themselves.
There is an 8 pin connector at the back of the valley that all three wires of YOUR pressure sensor wires go through but that most likely is not the problem, it is your Dorman parts. Feel free to give us a call Toll Free to discuss your problem direct. 844-307-7671
 

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