Error Code P2447 Air Injection Pump Error... (1 Viewer)

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dtt255

dtt255

Joined
Oct 30, 2007
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Well seems I got hit with the big issue that alot of Tundra owners are hit with.

null_zps180cf454.png

I need to figure out if it is the pump itself or the valve.

There is no way in hell I am paying toyota $2k plus to fix this. No way.

Now I know the service bulletin Toyota put out says it is now covered for 10 years or 150k miles....and I am under both BUT they put that out for the Tundras....not the LC's as far as I know.

So far I just clear it until I figure out what is the deal.

Any ideas?
 
what software do you have that is able to read the codes on your iphone?

very cool

thanks
 
beno said:
You can probably argue your way to a warranty job from Toyota.

Be persistent, they will cover it.
Click to expand...

From reading my error it seems more of a valve issue then a actual pump issue.

Beno,

Would you happen to have a part breakdown anywhere so I can find the valve and pump, so I can see where it is and check the valve and pump are at?

I know on the tundra's one of the pumps is in the passenger wheel well area, not sure if the LC is in the same area, and also don't have a clue where the valve is.

Thanks.
 
Call up Toyota. Ask your dealer to call up Toyota and see if they will help out.

When the frame of my ‘03 4Runner rusted to oblivion, I asked the dealer’s service manager to call up Toyota. He was skeptical, because there was no recall for frame rust for the 4th gen 4Runner, and my 4th gen was long out of warranty. He had replaced many Taco and Tundra frames, but never a 4th gen 4Runner. He called up Toyota and they paid for most of the frame replacement.
 
TonyP said:
You can also get an AIP bypass from

Hewitt-Tech SAIS Bypass Kits - Store

Edit: Nevermind, I see you already bumped every AIP post on mud.
Click to expand...
Thanks!!! Brand new to this (any) forum so didn't intentionally mean to upset by "bumping every AIP post on mud". Just slightly panicking on this costly repair.
Any experience with the bypass kit? Not getting anywhere with the dealer/Toyota, so I decided to fix the AIP myself and have bought some of the parts. But, I'm thinking the bypass is a more permanent fix and less effort. The parts alone are more than the bypass kit.
 
Similar issue to the GX 2nd generation (maybe 3rd). A soft piece of foam gasket breaks off into the valve causing a leak, or into the pump. Pretty extensive details how to search and fix it can be found on that forum. I was hoping Toyota would have resolved that issue years ago.
 
Just got this error. It is interesting that it manifests as "Check VSC System" on the LX570 and shuts down your ability to go into 4LO.

This popped up after a very snowy drive through the passes here in CO. I was able to clear the error code, restarted the truck and drove around the block. If this pops back up I'll probably just go the secondary air delete route. $400 doesn't seem too bad for a quick and permanent fix.

Anyone know if you can still pass emissions testing with this in place? Their website says the Gen2 kits don't stop the system from running, they merely emulate it and the secondary air injection system will show as complete/ready. That seems promising.

CEL P2447.jpg
 
Started error free for a couple short drives but started the LX up this morning and same error code. Off to order the SAIS Bypass Kit.
 
Got the Hewitt-Tech SAIS bypass kit in yesterday and installed it last night. Took about 3 hours total. Cleaned the front brakes and greased the pins while I had the front wheels off.

There are two block off plates that have to be installed in the air tubes near the exhaust manifold on either side. You access these via the wheel wells and they each have 2 studs with 10mm nuts on them. I opened up the access to these FIRST and soaked them with WD40 penetrating oil. By the time I got to this step 2.5 hours later they all broke free very easily. If you snap one of these studs off, you are in for a nightmare of a repair from what I can tell.

The hardest part of this entire install BY FAR is unclipping the two Air Switching Valve/Pressure Sensors at the back of the engine. You literally have to cllimb on top of the engine to reach these things are you really can't see them without wedging your head back by the firewall. When you get to this step STOP. Do you wear a Size L, XL or even bigger glove? Walk away and go find a friend with baby hands.

I am kidding. Sort of. I was able to unclip a couple harnesses and get enough room to get a long set of needle nose pliers back there on the drivers side and unclip the connector. From there I was able to pull it off and connect the new wiring harness.

The passenger side is like some cruel torture device and my forearms and fingers still hurt this morning. Even with unclipping the main engine wiring harness and removing everything I could find in the area it was simply too small for me to get my hands down in there. I ended up using a very long flat had screw driver with a tiny head to pop the clip on the connector. From there I used two very long flat head screw drivers on either side of the connector to work it forward side by side like 0.0001mm at a time. All while laying on top of the engine. This part took me about 1.5 hours. It was NOT fun, but it can be done.

Everything else is super straight forward and simple. The kit is very well put together. The Youtube video mentions that in the future they will have custom plugs for the unused connectors (The are 12V 50AMP power so don't want to leave them exposed.) My kit DID come with the custom plugs. Sweet! I took this a step further and packed them with dielectric grease then popped the plugs in to prevent and corrosion down the road. The plugs fit great but not sure they would be water tight.

The instructions have you remove 1 of the 2 secondary air injection system drivers and mount the Gen-II Bypass system to the bracket. The have you leave one of the (No longer used) drivers just so you can plug the extra power connector back into it so its no uncovered. The kit is now coming with plugs for these connectors so you could definitely remove both air injection system drivers if you want a more clean look. I did leave the second driver in there, but I may go back and remove it, just so it doesn't look like there is disconnected hardware in the engine bay in case I have to go through a visual emission inspection at any point.

So the good stuff: IT WORKS! Reconnected the batter and fired up the truck. No error codes. Took it for a few drives last night and my wife has been out and about driving it all morning. No issues. Can't say I notice that it runs any differently. Even when it was throwing a code it still started/idled/ran perfectly, but I am happy to have no errors on the screen and have access to 4LO again!

IMG_4039.jpg

Custom plugs for the power connectors that now come with the kit.

IMG_4037.jpg

The two factory secondary air injection system drivers. You have to remove 1 of them because you will moun the Gen-II system in its place. But you can optionally remove both. They are no longer in use with the bypass installed.
 
I may be going down this route. Just did the valley plate leak repair last weekend and now getting a P2445 code every other day. Should have done it while I had it all apart.
 
RyanR said:
Got the Hewitt-Tech SAIS bypass kit in yesterday and installed it last night. Took about 3 hours total. Cleaned the front brakes and greased the pins while I had the front wheels off.

There are two block off plates that have to be installed in the air tubes near the exhaust manifold on either side. You access these via the wheel wells and they each have 2 studs with 10mm nuts on them. I opened up the access to these FIRST and soaked them with WD40 penetrating oil. By the time I got to this step 2.5 hours later they all broke free very easily. If you snap one of these studs off, you are in for a nightmare of a repair from what I can tell.

The hardest part of this entire install BY FAR is unclipping the two Air Switching Valve/Pressure Sensors at the back of the engine. You literally have to cllimb on top of the engine to reach these things are you really can't see them without wedging your head back by the firewall. When you get to this step STOP. Do you wear a Size L, XL or even bigger glove? Walk away and go find a friend with baby hands.

I am kidding. Sort of. I was able to unclip a couple harnesses and get enough room to get a long set of needle nose pliers back there on the drivers side and unclip the connector. From there I was able to pull it off and connect the new wiring harness.

The passenger side is like some cruel torture device and my forearms and fingers still hurt this morning. Even with unclipping the main engine wiring harness and removing everything I could find in the area it was simply too small for me to get my hands down in there. I ended up using a very long flat had screw driver with a tiny head to pop the clip on the connector. From there I used two very long flat head screw drivers on either side of the connector to work it forward side by side like 0.0001mm at a time. All while laying on top of the engine. This part took me about 1.5 hours. It was NOT fun, but it can be done.

Everything else is super straight forward and simple. The kit is very well put together. The Youtube video mentions that in the future they will have custom plugs for the unused connectors (The are 12V 50AMP power so don't want to leave them exposed.) My kit DID come with the custom plugs. Sweet! I took this a step further and packed them with dielectric grease then popped the plugs in to prevent and corrosion down the road. The plugs fit great but not sure they would be water tight.

The instructions have you remove 1 of the 2 secondary air injection system drivers and mount the Gen-II Bypass system to the bracket. The have you leave one of the (No longer used) drivers just so you can plug the extra power connector back into it so its no uncovered. The kit is now coming with plugs for these connectors so you could definitely remove both air injection system drivers if you want a more clean look. I did leave the second driver in there, but I may go back and remove it, just so it doesn't look like there is disconnected hardware in the engine bay in case I have to go through a visual emission inspection at any point.

So the good stuff: IT WORKS! Reconnected the batter and fired up the truck. No error codes. Took it for a few drives last night and my wife has been out and about driving it all morning. No issues. Can't say I notice that it runs any differently. Even when it was throwing a code it still started/idled/ran perfectly, but I am happy to have no errors on the screen and have access to 4LO again!

View attachment 2229730
Custom plugs for the power connectors that now come with the kit.

View attachment 2229731
The two factory secondary air injection system drivers. You have to remove 1 of them because you will moun the Gen-II system in its place. But you can optionally remove both. They are no longer in use with the bypass installed.
Click to expand...

What year 200?
 
Does the engine still sound like a vacuum cleaner when you cold start it? Did you remove the air pump and all the plumbing and was it hard to do so?
 
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