Engine won't Start, but cranks over (1 Viewer)

[lc1996]

I think I &@!$ up on this one; engine cranks but won't startup anymore. Here's what I did to cause problem: I removed the inoperable alarm system; wires and all. Two of the alarm wires were spliced into the ignition harness, so upon taping them up I accidently touched one of the wires to ground. Stupid me forgot to disconnect battery as a precaution. Anyways, after taping up the exposed wires I went to start it up and it won't. I checked all fuses and relays and they are all good. I thought grounding the wire would have caused one to blow but nothing. Here's the scary part, with the ignition in the on position I noticed the check [engine] light doesn't come on; this should right..? I did some voltage tests based off the FSM at the ECU end and only getting power to ECU, but nothing else. Did I blow the ECU? Is there something that I missed in my diagnosis?

Your help is appreciated,
Carl

 

[FrankTorres]

Check your EFI fuses, the CEL needs to be on when you turn the key.

good luck

 

[lc1996]

Frank, I checked the EFI fuse and relay and they're both good. With the ignition ON, I don't get voltage at ECU terminals B+ and E1. Next I checked terminal E1 and body gnd, OK. Then I checked voltage at IGSW terminal and body gnd, nothing. I checked the IGN fushe and it's good. I checked the ignition switch based on what the FSM says, and test comes up good. Well I'm a little relieved that it might not be a bad ECU, since the initial issue is no power source to it when ignition switch is in ON position.

I'm stumped,
Carl

 

[nyk438]

Yup, your EFI fuse/relay could be gone. Wish that was the reason why my truck won't turn over. Damn distributor

 

[lc1996]

Ok, problem resolve. It was the fuseable link of power to ignition harness; should of known right away since that W-R wire was the exact one I shorted out. I took the connector apart and replaced burnt wire with similar gauge and insulation thickness.

 

[Tools R Us]

Did you use fuse wire? If not order a new one from C-Dan.

 

[Rich]

Fusible links have a high spec insulation that will not catch on fire, even when the wire gets hot enough to melt. For that reason, you should not replace with off the shelf wire, if you wish to maintain the same level of protection.

If the wire you replaced was the one marked .3 on the insulation, then the closest AWG gauge would be 22 gauge.

Don't substitute larger gauge wire for the fusible links. Doing so negates the protection that the links provide.

If you look around, fusible link wire can be purchased in bulk. I'd just pay the freight to get the toyota replacement.

I carry a spare fusible link assembly, just in case the need arise. I carry spares for all of the fuses, including the large ones in the box under the hood. With good fortune I will never use any of them.

 

[Tuner]

Don't substitute larger gauge wire for the fusible links. Doing so negates the protection that the links provide.

Oops. I replaced what looked like a bad wire between the positive terminal and the black dual wire box with a much heavier guage to fix my problem. Sound like a fire waiting to happen. Do you know what the equivalent fuse rating would be for these links?

 

[Rich]

I don't have at my finger tips the "fuse amp rating" of specific size fusible link wire.

If I were to replace my fusible links with fuses, then I would do the following: 1) determine the actual gauge of the wiring that connects to the fusible link (not the link itself, the wiring that follows - Note: on a Landcruiser, the wires will be metric not SAE or AWG), 2) determine the ampacity of the wire from step 1, and then 3) Install fuse of same or lower rating.

The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring from getting hot enough to start a fire. The process outllined above should accomplish that. The process above presumes that all downstream wiring from the fusible link is either the same gauge or is protected by another fuse. A reasonable presumption, but still a presumption.

In the end, it would be so much easier to just go to the dealer a pick a a replacement and a spare. Won't break the bank!

 

[santiagol]

Is there any advantage to using a fusible link over an inline fuse? Other than manufacturing cost.

 

[CruisinGA]

less bulky and waterproof. (not all inline fuse cases are waterproof)

 

[lc1996]

Wow, I received more response after the problem was resolved. Although I did consider the fire hazard if that link didn't break the way it was suppose to, I wasn't aware that the wire is of different material. Thanks for the heads up. I'll make sure I get the OEM and keep this as a temporary backup.

Carl

 

[Tuner]

2) determine the ampacity of the wire from step 1, and then 3) Install fuse of same or lower rating.

I'm not sure I can say ampacity much less determine it. The Toyota dealership in Gainesville, FL is not on my list of approved businesses so I won't be going back there. I've got a heavy duty marine holder/fuses that would be preferential to the 10ga wire I used to replace the link with...I think the fuses are 40 and 50 amps.

Didn't mean to derail the thread but appreciate the info!

 

[dfmorse]

Of course; u could do this:

http://homepage.mac.com/dfmorse/BattProj2/page9.html

...

 

[Rich]

Of course; u could do this:
http://homepage.mac.com/dfmorse/BattProj2/page9.html
...

Morse is fond of promoting defeating the fusible links by replacing with oversized replacement wire.

I think doing so, and even more so advocating that other do so, is extremely ill founded.

 

[Beowulf]

I purchased a complete set (3?) of the fusible links from C-Dan as spares. They were much cheaper than I expected.

-B-

 

[DJForrestA]

Napa carries link wire by the spool. Take in what you have left and match it up.