Engine trouble help. pulled head today (1 Viewer)

[DAD2SIX]

Hey guys. So I have a f motor in my 65 fj40
serial number f269869 (pre69) from what I can tell. Runs fine not fast but it's a old 40.

So I noticed a oil leak right above my distributor a few months ago. Looked like it was coming from the top of the pushrod cover gasket. So I replaced my pushrod cover gasket. Cleaned and straightened the cover out and sealed it up good.
Let it sit over night and then started it the next day. It still leaked. I let it go leaking for about a month and then noticed bright green antifreeze in the oil leak. See picture below. Also when it was running I would see bubbles in the oil leak.
Pulled the dipstick and the oil is normal. Clean not milky.

So I thought I probably have a head gasket leaking or a crack in the block or head.
I figured I would do a compression test before pulling it apart. Here's what I got
130
125
127
130
90
127
I did the test cold with plugs out (they all looked good )and throttle closed. (Before I read the manual)

I added oil (probably too much. I had about a 1/4" of oil on top of the piston when I took off the head) to cyl 5 and got 147


So I took off the head.
I did not see any obvious cracks or blown out gasket or anything. ..........huh....ok now what.


My gut tells me to check the head and block for warpage clean it all up and put a new gasket on and run it.

What do you guys think???? And I missing something or something else I should check for?

 

[vtgbeemer]

I would clean everything up and do a leak test on the valves on cylinder #5. You may simply have a leaking head gasket. Before the leak were you experincing any running problems or missing? Also did you see any evidence of condensation in the valve cover or any evidence of oil in the radiator?

 

[DougAustinTx]

Probably should magnaflux the head for cracks while it's off too.

 

[DAD2SIX]

I would clean everything up and do a leak test on the valves on cylinder #5. You may simply have a leaking head gasket. Before the leak were you experincing any running problems or missing? Also did you see any evidence of condensation in the valve cover or any evidence of oil in the radiator?

It ran good before I pulled it apart. No missing. No oil in the rad. No condensation in the valve cover. I was loosing some antifreeze and I could not figure out from where. It did not smoke and the plugs looked good. It was not on the ground. And not in the oil.

 

[Living in the Past]

Should be a production date on the left side of the block. The cylinder head is a last 67 (68 model) at the oldest. That exhaust manifold is not from a F135 which would be what was in a 1965 FJ40. Exhaust ports 2/3 and 4/5 are shared. 1968 switched to the F145. Make sure you get the correct gaskets. The manifold gaskets will not be the same. Never compared the head gaskets. Keep your old head gaskets and compare it to the new one. I wish I had more then thirty years ago when I rebuilt my F145. Installed the wrong gasket and got water coming out the exhaust first time I turn it over. I bought a old FJ40 years ago with it's original F135. PO installed the wrong gaskets and that is what took it off the road for the last time.

 

[DAD2SIX]

Well after cleaning up the pistons and closer inspection on cyl 5 I found a crack in the piston!!!

New motor time. What to do what to do?
2f? , 350? Stock 3spd, 350/700r4? My head is spinning Hmmm

 

[vtgbeemer]

If the engine was performing well prior to now, you might drop the pan and pull #5. If the bore looks good and the crank looks good it might still be worth repairing. There are mud members with good used pistions out there . Eventhough the F gets it's share of criticism they just look right in a 65 and everything else fits.

 

[grant5127]

Your 350 suggestion sounds good to me...spending any money on that engine or a 2F would be a total waste...

 

[Pin_Head]

If your 65 is largely original, I would keep it that way and replace the piston. It would not be much more work. Try to save the rings too and pay attention to where their gaps are in the bore when the old one comes out.

 

[itchy]

Yes, if it's mostly original fix it and don't ruin it by replacing with a 350. If that's an option maybe consider trading it for a Jeep.

 

[shelfboy1]

keep your old gasket for comparison there are differences in the f, f-1 and 2f i compared them a while back just to be sure .

 

[dbfrink]

I bought a recently (within a year or so) rebuilt 1F a month from a machine shop here in MS. I can call them and see where they sourced pistons from, if you'd like. Also, I am parting out my 1F that had a cracked head, if you're interested in used pistons. I think they are standard bore, as that motor was a Toyota crate motor that had been put in it later. Just throwing it out there. Let's keep the stubborn 1F 40's out there as long as we can.

 

[DAD2SIX]

I decided to keep it Toyota.
I bought a 1984 FJ60 with 154k It runs and drives sounds smooth and runs a lot better than my f ever did. But it is stuck in 4 wheel drive. It will go into 4 hi, neutral or 4 low but not 2 hi ?? Not sure why yet. Man That 4 speed sure shifts a lot smoother and faster than my 3 on the tree! I checked compression they are all about 120-125ish Assuming I fix the tc is it a good one to have? I will take what I need and part out the rest Thanks for all you help guys!!

 

[SteveH]

Replace the piston with a used one and carefully put it back together, or source a running 2F. I'd opt to fix yours and keep an eye out for a good 2F. Don't part out the '60 just yet...

 

[Pin_Head]

Swapping in the FJ60 drive train is comparable in terms of cost and effort to a SBC V8. You need to deal with most of the same things: Wiring, throttle linkage, drive shafts, exhaust, tranny and transfer linkage and you would also have to deal with the parking brake. It is a lot of work compared to replacing a piston or just swapping the 2F in.

 

[woytovich]

Swapping in the FJ60 drive train is comparable in terms of cost and effort to a SBC V8.

Except you don't need to buy an adapter ($) to go between your v8 and tranny (or tranny and transfer if you are going to use a GM tranny).

I think the FJ60 2F swap should be a piece of cake compared to a Chevy swap...

 

[DAD2SIX]

Except you don't need to buy an adapter ($) to go between your v8 and tranny (or tranny and transfer if you are going to use a GM tranny). I think the FJ60 2F swap should be a piece of cake compared to a Chevy swap...

Yes the adapter was 700 bucks the motor mounts are 170 the rear crossmember was 150
+ the cost of the motor and trans ect ect ect.

I bought the whole Fj60 for 800 bucks.
I was going to convert my 65 to power steering anyway and would have to buy the gear, pump brackets and all the crap.
I will take what I need, part out some and then scrap what's left for a couple hundred bucks.
Adds up in my head.

 

[SAWTOOTH 55 LC]

There are guys that shouldn't own tools.guys that pay to have everything done,and guys who are creative and have no problem making things happen when they get stumped.You have the skills to make it happen with a little helpful advise from MUD and local dudes.Cut,weld,Get r done

 

[DAD2SIX]

There are guys that shouldn't own tools.guys that pay to have everything done,and guys who are creative and have no problem making things happen when they get stumped.You have the skills to make it happen with a little helpful advise from MUD and local dudes.Cut,weld,Get r done

Thanks Matt! I will make it happen. And come out just fine in the end.

 

[vtgbeemer]

At least now you know the direction you are going. Obviously there are a lot of "F" fans still around the mud community so maybe someone can benefit from the remains of your F engine to keep theirs going. I have been sitting on an early siameesed head, early crank and cam for a while but eventually someone will be thrilled to use them.
Will be watching your progress on your build thread. Good Luck!