While driving the other day I noticed my LC hesitating a little bit. The next day was no different except that when at idle, it only idled at 400 RPM. Kinda reminded me of how it runs right after the EFI fuse is reset. I checked the engine codes and nothing. The next day while normal driving, it started hesitating and sputtering, then finally died. After getting a tow to the house, I checked the codes and there was nothing. It did start normally the next day, however a quick test drive proved no different. It started sputtering again and eventually died. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Engine Problems, Help! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter flatrate
- Start date
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x2 start with Rubber ribbed intake tube.
Look between the ribs for cracks
Look between the ribs for cracks
What year is it? Check the crispy melted wiring harness at the firewall where it gets cooked by the egr valve. If you wiggle it while it is misbehaving and it clears up or vis a versa you may have found the culprit.
I had some odd idling and random dieing behavior. It ended up being the fuel pump connector was corroded.
HTH
HTH
Grench
SILVER Star
"The truck sputters, stalls & dies completely at random. Restart, and it runs 2-5 minutes fine. Holding up the RPMs with the gas pedal does not prevent the behavior. No CEL code thrown. It is possible by dancing the right foot on the gas to keep it running through these spells."
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/142213-real-time-help-fuel-delivery-issue.html
Eliminate everything else first... It can be a long path.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/142213-real-time-help-fuel-delivery-issue.html
Eliminate everything else first... It can be a long path.
What have you done recently? Mine exhibited similar symptoms after playing in water. Turned out to be water in the spark plug tubes.
Grench
SILVER Star
What brand of plugs, wires, etc?
Grench
SILVER Star
Describe, in detail, the procedure you used for changing the air filter?
I'm wondering if you may have cracked the intake tube and didn't know it.
I'm wondering if you may have cracked the intake tube and didn't know it.
When you messed with the dizzy, could you have gotten it off a tooth or two?
- Thread starter
- #14
I loosened both intake tube clamps, removed the throttle cable from the intake tube, removed the cruise control cable from the air cleaner, removed the MAF sensor connector, removed the wing nut and undid the 3 clamps. I then removed the whole assembly (air cleaner top, MAF, and intake tube). Removed intake tube so I could replace spark plugs and wires. Re-installed everything in reverse order. BTW, the vehicle ran good for about two weeks and 500 miles before it started to act up. I did manage to check the MAF sensor per the maintenance manual and it did check good. However, the manual only gives resistance values for the sensor in a static position. No values are provided for the sensor in any other position.
When the vehicle does run and starts to sputter, there is a noticeable foul odor from the exhaust.
When the vehicle does run and starts to sputter, there is a noticeable foul odor from the exhaust.
Is the foul odor like a sulfur smell (rotten eggs) possibly the catalytic converter. Not sure if it would cause all of the issues you are having. Definitely try the simplest items first.
I know lots of toyotas don't like bosch but is the 1fz one of them?
How did you determine that the cord was shorting out to the coil itself?
Once you R&R'd the coil cable, it ran fine since then?
Trying to figure out if short was intermittent, and that explained how you'd have gotten it running for a short while before it died, and not immediate.
