- Thread starter
- #161
So just spray the wd40 (probably not carb cleaner, right) around the base of the carb while it’s running. Same with intake manifold? No bubbles or anything just running better?
Engine hesitation (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Groucho263
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No bubbles, since it’s sucking not blowing, but yes… if it smooths out or the RPMs pick up, you’ve found it.
- Thread starter
- #163
So, I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the carb and everywhere I thought there might be a leak. The only difference I was able to detect was when I sprayed the carb cleaner actually into the carb. It seemed to run better with carb cleaner in the carb. Here are a couple videos, one without the air cleaner assembly and the others just to show how the the motor is running.
- Thread starter
- #164
No, those wires should not be connected to each other. Just looking at that picture tells me your issue is probably ignition related. That ignitor and coil are not wired correctly. That black wire yellow stripe that is connected to the coil + should be powering the ignitor, which then feeds to coil +. Are the positive and negative ignitor wires in your hand connected to nothing? Please post up a picture of the connections to your ignitor and coil.
- Thread starter
- #166
@John Smith thanks for the comment. Here are a couple pictures with some hopeful explanation.
After reading below, I realize I need to probably remove the wires that are not hooked up from the coil, etc. I had them there to remind me where they went, but should I remove them?
Also, the last video shows the igniter wires that go to the FJ60 distributor. They are might need to be cleaned?
Pictures:
On the positive side, the red goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid.
Black yellow to the ignition
Small black/white I think went to the oem starter...it's not connect to anything now.
Two igniter wires - both mostly white
Negative side on top is the igniter
Yellow (see next picture) is connected to a red wire that goes to the main harness...I'm not 100% certain where that one goes. When I did the rewire, I could probably tell you.
The black one used to go to the negative side to the distributor when I tried electronic ignition (whole write up about that mess in the thread and how it didn't work, so it's got points in there) - it is not hooked up to anything.
After reading below, I realize I need to probably remove the wires that are not hooked up from the coil, etc. I had them there to remind me where they went, but should I remove them?
Also, the last video shows the igniter wires that go to the FJ60 distributor. They are might need to be cleaned?
Pictures:
On the positive side, the red goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid.
Black yellow to the ignition
Small black/white I think went to the oem starter...it's not connect to anything now.
Two igniter wires - both mostly white
Negative side on top is the igniter
Yellow (see next picture) is connected to a red wire that goes to the main harness...I'm not 100% certain where that one goes. When I did the rewire, I could probably tell you.
The black one used to go to the negative side to the distributor when I tried electronic ignition (whole write up about that mess in the thread and how it didn't work, so it's got points in there) - it is not hooked up to anything.
- Thread starter
- #167
Dumb question. Can battery cables that are slightly loose on the posts cause this? What about the fusible link connection if it has slight play?
samatulich
SILVER Star
I think your battery is only being used during initial startup. Then your alternator takes over. I'd tighten those cables, but I don't believe that's your problem.
What temperature is your engine getting to? A vacuum leak could easily be undetected when cold and show up once the engine is hot.
I'd get an inferred thermometer and drive it around. Once the symptoms show, then check the thermostat housing temp. Should be around 180*.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to hook up a vacuum gauge and have it in the cab while driving either.
- Thread starter
- #169
Not sure the exact temps. It gets to the lower barb on the gauge and pretty much stays there. It will get above it briefly until the thermostat kicks in. I’ll have to find a thermometer to check it.
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- #170
Had to order a thermometer so will try it on Thursday. I'll have to search on here to see how to add a vacuum gauge to the cab...any suggestions on this one?
Question on the carb cleaner...when I sprayed into the carb, it ran better...is that an indication of something?
Question on the carb cleaner...when I sprayed into the carb, it ran better...is that an indication of something?
Into the carb is not where you spray it. Spray around the base and at the manifold/head interface.
- Thread starter
- #172
Yep...I did that too with no noticeable change...but because I had spray in my hand, I shot some down the carb and it ran better...I suspect that's a normal thing?
- Thread starter
- #173
Got the thermometer and drove for a while today. Maybe because I bought a thermometer, the engine decided to run well? Temps were always around 150 (after letting it warm up)-180ish...never higher than 180.
No idea...but didn't fail today.
I did make sure some wires were tightened and connections weren't wiggly. We'll see if that was the fix. I did have a fusible link going to the battery that was a little loose and wonder if that could have caused the issue. I'm sure I'll be back on here in a day or so saying it did it again.
On an unrelated note...I added caster shims to the front and the death steering is all but gone. Going to try to figure out how to add a vacuum gauge to the cab.
No idea...but didn't fail today.
I did make sure some wires were tightened and connections weren't wiggly. We'll see if that was the fix. I did have a fusible link going to the battery that was a little loose and wonder if that could have caused the issue. I'm sure I'll be back on here in a day or so saying it did it again.
On an unrelated note...I added caster shims to the front and the death steering is all but gone. Going to try to figure out how to add a vacuum gauge to the cab.
Wiring integrity is uber important on these for some reason (more so than on anything else I’ve owned). Maybe you got it.
- Thread starter
- #175
It's driving me crazy...I can drive it for a bit then the hesitation/sputtering comes back...mostly when I have been driving it for about 15-20 minutes...except today. I noticed white smoke from the exhaust (more than I have noticed before). It would come out pretty good if I stepped on the gas (clutch in). Then, 2 minutes later it sputtered, etc. I pulled the choke out and it ran ok (I didn't add any gas pedal) to get me home. If I pushed the choke in, it would want to die...so I left the choke out till I got home. I'm about to drive this thing into a tree...anybody got anything?
- Thread starter
- #176
Anybody know if this could be carburetor causing this?
middlecalf
SILVER Star
White smoke usually means moisture. Carb issues generally manifest into black or dark smoke.
Since the white smoke is now appearing more I‘d be concerned your head gasket might be giving up the ghost. What’s the oil look like, and how’s the coolant level holding? And yes, head gasket leaking can be related to engine hesitation due to loss of compression.
Just what you need, some more things to check, eh? Sorry can‘t be more specific wrt potential carb or fuel problems.
Since the white smoke is now appearing more I‘d be concerned your head gasket might be giving up the ghost. What’s the oil look like, and how’s the coolant level holding? And yes, head gasket leaking can be related to engine hesitation due to loss of compression.
Just what you need, some more things to check, eh? Sorry can‘t be more specific wrt potential carb or fuel problems.
- Thread starter
- #178
I just redid the head gasket and haven't driven it that many miles. I'll check the fluids and see how they look and report back. I did mess with the carb fuel mixture and idle...i wonder if its too lean now?
Yeah...this thing is so frustrating...I just want it to run so I can drive it more.
Yeah...this thing is so frustrating...I just want it to run so I can drive it more.
- Thread starter
- #179
Finally had some time to work on it for a bit. I have been thinking about this and read this thread again. I think I have a vac leak around the base of the carb. Here are a couple pictures of the carb insulator. Between it and the manifold, there was a gasket that broke into about 30 pieces as I touched it. I think I need the plenum gasket and one for the top (between the carb and the insulator). When working on the rest of the things in this thread, I made a gasket from gasket making material, but probably messed that up. Can somebody please confirm these 2 gaskets are needed. I read how the insulator has one on it, but I don't think I do? Also, I read another thread that says permatex 1 between the plenum gasket and insulator?
Also, that tube that comes out and goes right back in looks like it serves to cap off those ports. Should that be like that or different.
Also, that tube that comes out and goes right back in looks like it serves to cap off those ports. Should that be like that or different.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
Yes, it looks like there is nothing left of the gasket (the fibrous material on carb insulator).
