Engine cut out and won’t start (1 Viewer)

[Tachycardic]

Hi All, I’m looking for some help.

After driving 200 miles, I pulled into the hotel parking lot and the engine died just as I was about to turn into the park space.

All electrics still work…the ignition light, dome lights, headlights/brake lights. HVAC and radio still work fine.

When I insert the key, the CEL blinks rapidly for 2-3 seconds and stays on. The engine will crank, but wont start. I was thinking about replacing the fusible link, but would like your thoughts and suggestions. Thanks in advance.

 

[Tachycardic]

Found the issue…blown 15 amp EFI fuse. Replaced it and the truck is up and running. Now my friend’s Defender’s air suspension just died. Hope it’s just a fuse also…

 

[60 toy ota]

And you're going to find out why it blew, right?
.....right?

 

[Brindleboxer]

Mmmm...that didn't blow it just melted down like lava hit it. I would definitely be checking things out before anything worse happens. Would also be checking the fuse block for damage.

 

[WCBlueSky]

Check your O2 sensor wires rubbing on the driveshaft. Like this:

3rd gen 80 series PSA: front prop shaft and O2 sensor harness

I was nosing around under my spare 80 this week, (trying to find an electrical fault that was eluding me), and noticed this: See that shiny ring on the shaft? It's not supposed to be there. There is a mating worn out spot on the harness cover next to it (now taped up, roadkill fashion)...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Tachycardic]

Check your O2 sensor wires rubbing on the driveshaft. Like this:

3rd gen 80 series PSA: front prop shaft and O2 sensor harness

I was nosing around under my spare 80 this week, (trying to find an electrical fault that was eluding me), and noticed this: See that shiny ring on the shaft? It's not supposed to be there. There is a mating worn out spot on the harness cover next to it (now taped up, roadkill fashion)...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks. I checked the O2 sensor wires and they are not rubbing against the driveshaft. I do have them zip tied away from any moving parts and they are still intact.

 

[Tachycardic]

Mmmm...that didn't blow it just melted down like lava hit it. I would definitely be checking things out before anything worse happens. Would also be checking the fuse block for damage.

I’m on the road and I’m halfway to my destination. I don't have a volt meter with me. Are there any other ways to check if the fuse block is damaged?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Found the issue…blown 15 amp EFI fuse. Replaced it and the truck is up and running. Now my friend’s Defender’s air suspension just died. Hope it’s just a fuse also…

View attachment 3762518

Pheww!
Thought you were going to have to update your avatar pic with a flatline!

Lucky it was just a blip.

 

[rdcnj]

 

[rdcnj]

I would probably change your Main relay and possibly fusible link as a precaution if you haven't in a while.

Check the ground for the main relay shown there, maybe that's corroded and causing the amp spike.

Assuming you have spare(s) with you or can get one.

Without doing the obvious thing and chasing the amp draw, that's where I would start. Completely understanding you're mid trip here. Just trying to help.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Found the issue…blown 15 amp EFI fuse. Replaced it and the truck is up and running. Now my friend’s Defender’s air suspension just died. Hope it’s just a fuse also…

View attachment 3762518

Check the fuse box around that fuse. For the fuse to melt like that is not a normal failure.

That side terminal got hot before the little fuse strip blew out.
Maybe a dirty/corroded connection in the fuse box?
Check the wire underneath that fuse.
Something causing resistance or arcing at the connection, but somehow not overloading the fuse.

Grab some spare fuses from the parts store too.

 

[ChaseTruck]

Bad connection of that fuse to the fuse block = increased resistance = heat…

We’ve had something like that on the fuse block inside the ‘97. Spent a lot of time chasing a possible short without success.
Not all blade fuses are created equal.

 

[Tachycardic]

I would probably change your Main relay and possibly fusible link as a precaution if you haven't in a while.

Check the ground for the main relay shown there, maybe that's corroded and causing the amp spike.

Assuming you have spare(s) with you or can get one.

Without doing the obvious thing and chasing the amp draw, that's where I would start. Completely understanding you're mid trip here. Just trying to help.

That’s good advice thanks!

 

[Tachycardic]

Well, we wasted so much time at the Land Rover dealership that all I had time to do was to clean the fuse box as much as I could (removed the melted plastic) put a small amount of dielectric grease and replaced the fuse. We then drove 220 uneventful miles and I’ll do a deeper dive in the morning.

Thanks again for the suggestions!

 

[ChaseTruck]

I suppose you read the fine print on the dielectric grease… best not to use grease on electrical contacts that’s designed to not conduct electricity. You certainly wouldn’t want to increase resistance between the fuse blade and the block.

 

[Tachycardic]

I suppose you read the fine print on the dielectric grease… best not to use grease on electrical contacts that’s designed to not conduct electricity. You certainly wouldn’t want to increase resistance between the fuse blade and the block.

Dielectric grease is one of those things that have dual personalities. Yes, it does not conduct electricity, but the fine print also says that it prevents shorts. Since I don’t know for sure what caused the short, I went with it.

 

[ppc]

@Tachycardic ,
The "grease" is a protective coating to reduce or eliminate corrosion but actually reduces conductivity which is no Bueno. That is a problem, it's not designed to prevent shorts. The proper use is to apply to more or less the exterior of a connector to stop/reduce/eliminate water and other contaminates from penetrating into the connector.