unfortatunatley i have the obd1..otherwise it would be first on my list, i have a (1993 1FZ-FE)
have a look at these new quality gauges from redarc
http://www.redarc.com.au/products/category/monitoring-gauges/
Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor
- Thread starter RedJed78
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have a look at these new quality gauges from redarc
http://www.redarc.com.au/products/category/monitoring-gauges/
There are two different engine temp sensors: 1 for the gauge (temp sender) and 1 for the ECU for the EFI system.
Two completely different functions and roles within the 1FZ-FE operational system.
This discussion is going in two different and divergent tangents.
If you are throwing a temp sensor code than you need to test the sensor for the ECU not the one for the sender to the gauge.
Two completely different functions and roles within the 1FZ-FE operational system.
This discussion is going in two different and divergent tangents.
If you are throwing a temp sensor code than you need to test the sensor for the ECU not the one for the sender to the gauge.
Where is the "other" sensor, Onur?
Which one feeds the gauge and which feeds the OBD2 reader?
OP has 97, which is obd2.
Which one feeds the gauge and which feeds the OBD2 reader?
OP has 97, which is obd2.
Hi Beno, Thanks for chiming in. I think I need to test and/or swap out the sensor for the ECU. Where is that located (photo?), and do you sell them? Thanks,
Muddy1
Well it's been 3 years since I changed out the ETCS and I got another P0116 code check engine light. I used a scanner to check the live coolant temp and it read low, about 90 degrees after driving the truck for a half-hour and getting good heat out of the heat ducts. The gauge also read OK with the needle in the middle so I did not suspect a stuck open thermostat. I changed out the aftermarket sensor with a OEM sensor and cleared to code. Refilled the radiator (about a quart lost when swapping out the sensors) and fired it up. In a few minutes the scanner was reading coolant temps around 180+.
FYI, the new OEM sensor came without the little copper washer seal so I reused the old one. Careful not to drop it when installing! I'll add a pic of the wire connector and the sensor location. This time I used a 3/4" deep well socket with about a 8" extension working from the top driver side of the motor, not the wheel well. Seemed easier this way than through the wheel well.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Bump
Good morning
I'm in the process of performing some preventive maintenance and I'm unclear on which temperature gauge is for the ECU and which temperature gauge is for the dash gauge.
Based on my reading the dash gauge is the one on the driver side above the oil filter is this correct?
If so where is the ECU temperature gauge located?
I looked in the FSM but didn't see anything.
Put your year model Cruiser in your signature line so we will know at a glance what we are dealing with.
For those with 1FZ-FE engine (U.S. Market).
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Ahh good catch, I'll do it now THANKS
1997 FZJ80 Collector Edition
I have a dumb question. I loosened my coolant temperature sensor and fluid started leaking out. Couldn’t tell what it was as I have no sense of smell (thanks Covid) is it oil or coolant? Will it gush when I remove the sensor?
All of the coolant temp sensors will leak out some coolant when removed as they are located in the head (where coolant flows) with the tips surrounded by coolant ie: so they can measure the coolant temperature.
What are you working on, are you wanting to replace a sensor, why, engine codes or??
What are you working on, are you wanting to replace a sensor, why, engine codes or??
1FZ-FE. I do have the code for this and also a knock sensor. Also cold start is tough and sometimes stalls. And the plug is sheered off.
Are you installing an OEM ECT sensor (89422-35010)? If you need to save a few dollars RockAuto sells an AISIN Sensor (THSAZ-8001) for $18.
Fix the ECT first, clear your codes, then see if the knock sensor code comes back.
Check to be sure there are no air/vacuum leaks (air intake hose between the pleats, PCV or breather hoses)
If you do have to replace the knock sensor it will not leak coolant (or oil). Amayama currently has a good price on the Toyota part (89615-30050)
Fix the ECT first, clear your codes, then see if the knock sensor code comes back.
Check to be sure there are no air/vacuum leaks (air intake hose between the pleats, PCV or breather hoses)
If you do have to replace the knock sensor it will not leak coolant (or oil). Amayama currently has a good price on the Toyota part (89615-30050)
Thanks all good info. I don’t have a way to clear the code as I had it diagnosed but decided to do the work myself. Is there a way to clear it? Disconnect battery? I did have a bad EGR which I replaced then also did the heater control valve and some hoses. All OEM. One thing, on my EGR, I did use slightly larger diameter hoses and clamped them. They’re a little loose but stay put. Could this be an issue? Could I do my knock sensor and coolant sensor at once while I’m in there then reset? They’re Amazon but I got the most expensive Amazon ones
as their stuff can be crap and these got 5 stars.Switched out the sensor. Listened by wrench and didn’t remove the wheel or anything. Did the swap by hand the tightened and reconnected the plug easy peasy. Luckily the sheered piece came out pretty easy. Started up and runs great. No CEL and all sensors and connections are good to go. Thanks a bunch. Didn’t spill more than half a cup o coolant tho.
I got a P0116 error code yesterday, as well as a low battery voltage alert from my Viper SmartStart app. In the spirit of “let’s replace everything” I’ve been wanting to replace the 4+ year old battery, so this seems to be the right time. I’ve got an OEM ECTS (89422-35010) on the bench that will be an easy R&R as soon as I can get some additional Toyota Red to make-up the small loss. That being the case, would a low battery voltage trigger the P0116 code, or it likely a failing sensor? It’s finally winter in DFW and I’ve noticed on cold mornings the truck will crank, jump to 1200 RPM and settle down to 900-1000…once warm it it’ll idle at 650 as usual. I’m also getting heavy rich exhaust that lingers in the garage on my first start-up….not something I’ve dealt with in summer months or if it’s been running for a while. Not sure if all is related, but I’m hopeful a new battery and sensor will mean I can go another 4 years without having to worry about these being an issue. Anyone see dots that connect and care to comment?
Following up. I replaced the ECT sensor (easy to get to from above with 8” ext) last night but noticed the connector is shot. Someone previously broke the tabs and the plastic around he leads are pretty battered. The connector does not lock into the sensor but rather is friction fit. I’ve ordered OEM connector and a repin tool
Kit from Amazon.
Is the preferred method to repin the plastic housing or splice the pigtail? Anyone do it. Should I try to pull slack and work from below or lay on the top of the engine and perform electrical connector surgery?
Kit from Amazon.
Is the preferred method to repin the plastic housing or splice the pigtail? Anyone do it. Should I try to pull slack and work from below or lay on the top of the engine and perform electrical connector surgery?