elocker control module

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Hi all,

I am swapping out my axle for an elocker axle in my 4runner. Based on what I am reading in the forums, I will either need to build a series of double throw relays to activate the elocker motor or find a used elocker control module from a donor vehicle.
Has anyone done either of these before and do they have an recommendations and or instructions to build one.

Thanks
 
I've done both.

The easy way is to get the OEM brain. But it's not cheap. The FSM has a complete wiring diagram on how to use it. I have a spare one sitting downstairs in my parts pile right now... well actually it's my son's, it (along with the e-locker) came out of the '98 Tacoma before Toyota bought the truck back from him.

I'm too cheap to pay for that, and they're impossible to find in the yards around here. So, I built my own.
LockerBox.jpg


There are lots of wiring diagrams out on the web that show how to do these. If you're really good at wiring, give it a shot. If you hate wiring, go with the OEM box.
 
You might find this thread helpful. It has a lot of links (courtesy of KLF and others) and I think it has a link to the factory wiring diagram for the elocker ECU that you need.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html

I would try to go with the factory ECU and switch. They can be found. You just need to search some breaker yards online and you will find one. I found my FZJ80 elocker ECU and switch in the classifieds here on mud.

You might find this link very helpful as well. This guy retrofitted factory everything into a 4Runner that didn't come with the factory elocker.

Retrofit Electric Locker
 
LOL... It's amazing where my pictures are now showing up. I took this picture waay back in '99:
new_housing_topB.jpg


Took that in my driveway, those are my feet.

That's also my picture of the e-locker harness on Phong's writeup.

Ken Emanual's write-up is really nicely done, he's a great guy, really fussy too. I actually sold him his switch and locker ECU.
 
Incredible work, KLF. I put a rear FJ80 elocker in the front of my '40 and made my own relay box with Foxfab's schematical assistance. I wish I had had a digital camera back then...
 
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LOL... It's amazing where my pictures are now showing up. I took this picture waay back in '99:

Took that in my driveway, those are my feet.

That's also my picture of the e-locker harness on Phong's writeup.

Ken Emanual's write-up is really nicely done, he's a great guy, really fussy too. I actually sold him his switch and locker ECU.

I've been surprised at how popular a subject the "elocker" is. I posted the thread of mine (above) in September and it's already had almost 5000 views.
 
THanks,

THis was helpful. I did find and ecu for it, but I think I am going to have trouble finding all the connectors for it as well. I will take a look at it.

You might find this thread helpful. It has a lot of links (courtesy of KLF and others) and I think it has a link to the factory wiring diagram for the elocker ECU that you need.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html

I would try to go with the factory ECU and switch. They can be found. You just need to search some breaker yards online and you will find one. I found my FZJ80 elocker ECU and switch in the classifieds here on mud.

You might find this link very helpful as well. This guy retrofitted factory everything into a 4Runner that didn't come with the factory elocker.

Retrofit Electric Locker
 
You need the connector and about 6"+ of wire for the ECU and the same for the switch. You don't need any other harnesses or connectors (except for the factory TRD elocker harness which costs about $30 from Toyota). You can use trailer cord and/or other types of wire for the balance of the wiring. It's not too difficult.
 
and for that reason alone is why i went with a lockrite in the rear. its just too much work to fab up a brain if you cant find one.
 
Well, "work" is a relative term. I don't mind wiring stuff at all, in fact I kinda like it. But I sure don't miss that Lockrite I had once, clacking away during every turn, loud BANG when pulling away from stop lights, truck trying to go sideways on icy roads...
 
well where i live we dont get ice on the roads so thats not a problem and since i dont really mind the bang as i unload it from the trailer... if i was going to all the trouble of putting a locker in it wouldnt be a DD. if you can pickup all the stuff including the brain go for it but mocking up something isnt worth the trouble
 
I ended up getting the OEM brain and pigtail, and the diff lock switch but..... a few problems exist.
1. The factory pigtail for the oem brain does not exist in my 97 4runner howevery I did get one from the junk yard with the brain.
The problem I am having is that i can identify 5 wires that need to be connected to the rear diff wiring harness from the rear end, but then I have 5 extra wires that need to be connected somewhere.
Can anyone help with the wiring.
The writeups on the web are provide pieces, but phongs write up on the ECU wiring diagram is fuzzy when it was scanned in.

Please advise if you can.

Andrew
2.
I've done both.

The easy way is to get the OEM brain. But it's not cheap. The FSM has a complete wiring diagram on how to use it. I have a spare one sitting downstairs in my parts pile right now... well actually it's my son's, it (along with the e-locker) came out of the '98 Tacoma before Toyota bought the truck back from him.

I'm too cheap to pay for that, and they're impossible to find in the yards around here. So, I built my own.
LockerBox.jpg


There are lots of wiring diagrams out on the web that show how to do these. If you're really good at wiring, give it a shot. If you hate wiring, go with the OEM box.
 
Go to my write-up (first link in post 3 above). Then click on the link in post 39 of that thread. Open the Tacoma elocker wiring diagram link and download that. Then come back if you have questions. The wiring is pretty straightforward even if you don't have the harness.
 
OK, I found a better view of the tacoma wiring RDL.
Can someone fill in the blanks?

ECU Brain Purpose Locker harness
Pin 1 RLP (Blue/yellow)? RLP L detect switch White black?
pin 2 M2 (LGrn/Red) DL Motor power? LGrn/Red
pin 3 M1 (LGrn) DL motor power LGrn
pin 4 to RR Locker switch
pin 5
pin 6 REL2 (LGrn/Blu) limit switch relay LGrn/Blu
Pin 7
Pin 8
Pin 9 REL 1 (LGrn) limit switch relay LGrn/Yellow
Pin 10 to speedometer

It looks as if there is 5 others missing and I am at a loss as to where the wires would be anyway. So that being said how should I approach?




Go to my write-up (first link in post 3 above). Then click on the link in post 39 of that thread. Open the Tacoma elocker wiring diagram link and download that. Then come back if you have questions. The wiring is pretty straightforward even if you don't have the harness.
 
This is much clearer. My question though is on wire 8, the safety toggle switch. Is that the switch you should put on the dash and use it as a interrupt ground switch? or is it the diff lock switch in the upper left hand corner?
Also, do I have to buy a 680 ohm resistor?

THanks
Let's see if this sketch helps you.
 
Just run pin 8 to ground (unless you want a separate safety switch) and you only need the resistor if you are using a LED which doesn't already have a resistor built in.

I don't remember if your 4Runner has the rear locker indicator in the instrument cluster or not? If it does then you need to use that. As you can see from my write-up, I had to use 2 LEDs in my 85. I bought them from 12VoltGuy and they had the resistor built in.

Sounds like you're getting there.

As you can see from this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-trd-elockers-fzj80-elocker-ecu-switch.html

it's a lot of wires. Especially if you're wiring two of them! I almost cried when it worked on the first try!

Btw, what are you running between the ECU and the elocker? I used 6 conductor trailor cord (6 x 14 gauge) and found that to be perfect. Correct wire size (maybe a bit overkill but not too much) all bundled into a very insulated sheath.
 
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I just ordered 6 wire conductor wire and SPDT momentary switch. I hope that is correct. I have a factory one I would like to use, but having trouble figuring out the wiring. do I need to use the lite in the dash or can I just wire one separately?
I agree with you, it was been taxing the brain cells.... LOL

A
Just run pin 8 to ground (unless you want a separate safety switch) and you only need the resistor if you are using a LED which doesn't already have a resistor built in.

I don't remember if you're 4Runner has the rear locker indicator in the instrument cluster or not? If it does then you need to use that. As you can see from my write-up, I had to use 2 LEDs in my 85. I bought them from 12VoltGuy and they had the resistor built in.

Sounds like you're getting there.

As you can see from this thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-trd-elockers-fzj80-elocker-ecu-switch.html

it's a lot of wires. Especially if you're wiring two of them! I almost cried when it worked on the first try!

Btw, what are you running between the ECU and the elocker? I used 6 conductor trailor cord (6 x 14 gauge) and found that to be perfect. Correct wire size (maybe a bit overkill but not too much) all bundled into a very insulated sheath.
 
God I hate it when I use incorrect grammar and someone quotes me before I can correct it! Oh well, that's what I get for posting after 4 glasses of Barolo! Anyway, back to your wiring....(as opposed to you're wiring :doh:).

Cancel the order for the switch. If you have the factory switch then you need to use it. Do you have a pigtail for the factory switch? If not, then get one. As a last resort, post up all the info you possibly can about the switch and we'll go from there.

I would use the instrument cluster display if yours has the possibility. Take your instrument cluster out (it's not that hard) and hold it up to a light. You can then see everything that came possible from the factory. If rear diff lock is on there then we can make it work....and how cool would that be? Patience is a virtue.
 
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Yes, I got the pigtail for the factory switch when I ordered the brain from the junk yard. I am going to have to go with a custome 6 pin connector as some others have done and seal it with marine tape.
I have some write out the proposed wiring and repost here this weekend and get input to be sure I am doing it right. I figure my wire will come in late next week.

Thanks, this site has so much information.:)

Andrew
'
God I hate it when I use incorrect grammar and someone quotes me before I can correct it! Oh well, that's what I get for posting after 4 glasses of Barolo! Anyway, back to your wiring....(as opposed to you're wiring :doh:).

Cancel the order for the swtich. If you have the factory switch then you need to use it. Do you have a pigtail for the factory switch? If not, then get one. As a last resort, post up all the info you possibly can about the switch and we'll go from there.

I would use the instrument cluster display if yours has the possibility. Take your instrument cluster out (it's not that hard) and hold it up to a light. You can then see everything that came possible from the factory. If rear diff lock is on there then we can make it work....and how cool would that be? Patience is a virtue.
 

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