Electrically dead 40 (1 Viewer)

[PhilC64]

I got my 40 a few months back and have been taking my time getting it going. So far so good until tonight. I was having an issue getting it started but figured out that the PO installed the distributor, cap, and rotor 180 out. After fixing that and a little ether I attempted to start the engine a few times and adjusted the timing to have it fire up. I hit the right combo and it fired up but it lasted all of 2 seconds. Then it went completely dead. I went to restart it and got nothing. No dash lights, no gauges, nothing.

This is the current configuration.
It's a 74 Fj40 with an F motor which never ran for me until tonight. (I got it home by flat towing it.)
There is a GM 12SI alternator wired into it.
I recently finished wiring the 40 with a Painless #10107 wiring harness. Nothing remains of the old harness. The original voltage regulator is gone as well. I'm quite certain I installed the harness correctly since prior to tonight everything worked. It just wouldn't fire up as when I attempted to start it.

I checked the new battery and it currently is sitting and holding at 12.5 volts. Its sitting on my trickle charger and it indicates a good battery,
I checked all of my fuses and all of them are good.

I'm down to 3 possible culprits.
The 12SI alternator, the starter solenoid and the coil ballast resistor. I'm leaning towards a fried starter solenoid since my main battery cable runs to it. Is there a set method to test the stock solenoid?
I'm also scratching my head because of the internally regulated alternator.
I had suspicions regarding my coil ballast resistor. When I inspected it, I found it to be electrically open. Physically the resistor is broken in half under the ceramic heatsink.

Am I heading in the right path on this or has some evil gnome possessed my 40?

 

[yotanut]

Check fusible link. Thats what it sounds like.

 

[PhilC64]

The painless harness does not contain any that I am aware of.

 

[Pin_Head]

I'm not sure what the problem is because you didn't really state any details, but it there is no power anywhere, it is a problem in the main power wire from the battery + to the ignition switch and fuse block.

 

[vk7ybi]

What about the earth circuit?

 

[joeyg1973]

Painless does have a very big maxi fuse as it's main fuse. It is separate from the fuse box.

 

[PhilC64]

I'm not sure what the problem is because you didn't really state any details, but it there is no power anywhere, it is a problem in the main power wire from the battery + to the ignition switch and fuse block.

I get no power from the battery to any circuit. The only thing with power is the battery. With the painless kit, the battery lead connects to the starter solenoid which also has the fuse block feed attached to it. This leads me to think I fried the starter solenoid where they all connect. Is there a way to test the solenoid?

What about the earth circuit?

I added several ground straps to the rig. From battery cable to body, body to frame, fender to cowl, cowl to engine, engine to frame. I wouldn't suspect a grounding issue.

Painless does have a very big maxi fuse as it's main fuse. It is separate from the fuse box.

The 50A maxi fuse was the first thing I checked and I get continuity through it. No issues there.

After thinking it through last night, I'm pretty certain of the fried starter solenoid. As I stated, the main power feed from the battery is attached there as well as the fuse block feed. I'm just uncertain on how to test the solenoid.

 

[dargreg]

solonoid test

Try and cross your large termanal on the solonoid to the smaller one , if it engages its ok if nothing happens its fried . I can,t see that is the problem though as power goes directly up to the box from the starter, Toyota has a large white wire at the fuse box that has to be grounded dont know what painless has but something is not grounded.

 

[Vicm]

I get no power from the battery to any circuit. The only thing with power is the battery. With the painless kit, the battery lead connects to the starter solenoid which also has the fuse block feed attached to it. This leads me to think I fried the starter solenoid where they all connect. Is there a way to test the solenoid?



I added several ground straps to the rig. From battery cable to body, body to frame, fender to cowl, cowl to engine, engine to frame. I wouldn't suspect a grounding issue.



The 50A maxi fuse was the first thing I checked and I get continuity through it. No issues there.

After thinking it through last night, I'm pretty certain of the fried starter solenoid. As I stated, the main power feed from the battery is attached there as well as the fuse block feed. I'm just uncertain on how to test the solenoid.

Use a jumper wire from the + post of the batt to starter wire spade connector Whis is connected to wire from start position of the ign switch.
Make sure trans in nuteral. If it cranks, the selonoid is good.
Do you have an amp meter connected ??

 

[PhilC64]

No ammeter here. I went with all aftermarket gauges.

I'll check the solenoid and check out my grounds.

Thanks for the info folks, thats what makes this site great!

 

[mano002]

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a cracked terminal on the battery. There is also a charging circuit from the alternator to the amp-meter that goes to the battery. I think that is the circuit that powers the ignition as well.

 

[Trollhole]

I get no power from the battery to any circuit. The only thing with power is the battery. With the painless kit, the battery lead connects to the starter solenoid which also has the fuse block feed attached to it. This leads me to think I fried the starter solenoid where they all connect. Is there a way to test the solenoid?



I added several ground straps to the rig. From battery cable to body, body to frame, fender to cowl, cowl to engine, engine to frame. I wouldn't suspect a grounding issue.



The 50A maxi fuse was the first thing I checked and I get continuity through it. No issues there.

After thinking it through last night, I'm pretty certain of the fried starter solenoid. As I stated, the main power feed from the battery is attached there as well as the fuse block feed. I'm just uncertain on how to test the solenoid.

Nery confusing. Your main power feed should go to your starter. Your main circuit to the fuse box should also go to this junction. To the same terminal. Even if the solenoid is blown you should still have power to the fuse block. Do you get power to this terminal? If not then the cable from the battery is bad or your battery posts are not getting good contact.

If your pulling you main fuse block from the output of the starter solenoid there is no way anything will work.

 

[PhilC64]

I had a similar problem that turned out to be a cracked terminal on the battery. There is also a charging circuit from the alternator to the amp-meter that goes to the battery. I think that is the circuit that powers the ignition as well.

I'll check those as well thanks!

I do a little too much reading and thinking for my own good. While researching the starter and solenoid I ran across this post by Poser regarding starter solenoid wiring on a gear reduction starter but could apply to my issue.

If I recall correctly, the other wire from the solenoid is a ballast resistor bypass lead. When the key is in the start position, this lead will send a full 12 volts to the coil instead of the seven to nine it sees in the run position going through the ballast resistor.

I found my ballast resistor fried while checking out my power loss issue. I'm thinking a faulty solenoid is the most likely culprit after reading Poser's post. I'll test my solenoid and let you folks know what I find!

 

[PhilC64]

Thanks for all the advice folks! My main battery negative cable was not securely connected to the frame. You all rock! The ballast resistor problem is a minor separate issue cause by a wrong connection.

My 40 now runs and just needs to get the Weber dialed in!