EGR J-pipe leak (1 Viewer)

[ZRotheohv]

Hi my EGR J-pipe (from the exhaust manifold to the EGR cooler) is leaking at the exhaust manifold point. It already did this once, found out the J-pipe flange was all bent up, and got the SS SOR one. Now it's at it again. The new flange is pretty beefy so I doubt it's all bent up yet, and I've tightened the nuts a TON (don't want to ruin the studs though) and the leak remains. Would stacking more than one gasket on there help? Or is there any liquid stuff I could put up there? Thanks a lot!

Zachary Rothe

 

[yournamehere]

I'm currently dealing with this. There is nothing I could find that can withstand those temps (up to 1200 degrees?) I just thought about using two gaskets? but the studs aren't long enough, so I'd use bolts through but I'm not sure if the flange is where it seals or if it seals up inside the manifold.

So the ol' SOR j pipe may not be any better?


I put some copper RTV sealant all over the gasket and flange and pipe tip and it was silent for about 20 minutes of driving and then................... tft,tft,tft,tft,tft.

BUT.. while it was silent... it was a beutiful sound.

 

[bigbertha]

Leak

Sorry to hi-jack, but how did you guys figure out the j-pipe was leaking? How did you actually go about finding the leak?

 

[bhk]

Sorry to hi-jack, but how did you guys figure out the j-pipe was leaking? How did you actually go about finding the leak?

I'd also like to know this. Are you just having to retighten often or is there some indication of the leak? How long did you have your new j-pipes installed before the leak developed?

Seems like if the temperature is too high for one gasket, that two wouldn't be any better.

 

[Mike S]

I knew mine was leaking from the sound it makes - tik tik tik...

I beileve that there is a Kevlar EGR J pipe gasket available. Whether it is any good, I don't know.

M

 

[soggy60]

Finding J Pipe leak : short ( 4 , 5 ft) lenght of hose, use as stethascope; you'll hear plup,plup,plup.

Sealing: there is a 'muffler' paste; large tooth paste tube. goop both sidses of gasket: WARNING wear gloves, stuff slowly eats skin WEAR SAFETY GLASSES, you'll be under rig to set gooped gasket, if the 'paste' falls in yer eye, it's goona hurt like a B....CH !

Gasket: is actually quite good. damage comes from 'use one time' nuts comming loose (expansion & contration) & blowby 'burns' gasket.

 

[yournamehere]

I was able to lay on the ground while the truck was running and put my hand near the exhaust manifold and the j pipe and was able to feel hot air coming out about 3 inches away from the flange. It make a puff of air for every tft,tft,tft sound.

I only found this after I (we-thanks dave) replaced the manifold gasket ..... 3 times...... but that's another story.

 

[ZRotheohv]

Yea since I've had it happen before it was the first place I looked. I actually just stuck my finger up there between the shroud and the flange and could feel the air being shot out. Plus since the ticking was roughly once per two revolutions of the engine I knew it was probably only one cylinder's exhaust that was coming out and the #6 cylinder was the only one with its own source for a leak. Unless it was one of those joints between the 3 pieces of the manifold but I didn't even get that far. So I guess a new gasket and some muffler paste is the way to go?

 

[yournamehere]

WTF is muffler paste. Is that in the same isle with the muffler bearings?

 

[ZRotheohv]

No, the only place I could find muffler bearings was online:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10

They have a pretty nifty lowering kit too.

 

[WAVEPIMP]

Man guys I had to read about that muffler bearing, that sounds like a nifty device to use.

After reading the reviews, I knew I just had to have one of those for my landcruiser.

Good stuff!!!!!!

Laters

 

[fjman]

Mine has been leaking where it connects to ERG cooler. Unfortunately the big nut that holds it on there is seriously rusted on. Maybe thats why I have the tik,tik,tik noise since the rebuild??????

Is it bad for the engine in this condition? Of course i also have one of my air injection holes sealed up since I broke #6s nozzle...oooops

 

[Slow N Steady]

Litterly just did mine - I've been round the block with my old J pipe a few times. Like everybody else has said, you hear the tick, tick, tick - especially under load. Anyway, I've tried all sorts of things but nothing seems to have held up - the last straw being the weld breaking on the flange. When things like this happen, I do what I usually do - contribute to the SOR ball. This go around though, I bought a used J pipe. Thought a lot about it, Stainless is actually a MUCH softer metal than Steel. Therefore I went with a stock used pipe. SOR never fails. Perfect. Installed it with a new gasket and muffler sealant. Works GREAT. Drivability is improved as well. Got it back on the road only to blow out a rusted brake line. Keeps me entertained!

PS - removed the studs on the exhaust header and now use bolts. Much easier!

 

[chaka]

Any particular grade of bolt needed on the exhaust flange? I am going to remove mine (one has sheared... and was thinking about using bolts....

 

[ZRotheohv]

I just used stainless steel bolts from Ace and they seem to be working great almost a year later!

 

[surfpig]

I knew mine was leaking from the sound it makes - tik tik tik...

I beileve that there is a Kevlar EGR J pipe gasket available. Whether it is any good, I don't know.

M

It sucks. Go OEM gasket.

 

[Landpimp]

+1.....the SOR Kevlar(which I really dont think it is) SUCKS

the SOR stainless pipe and OEM gasket is a great combo....

to those looking to find the leak..........use a piece of hose.....and poke around till ya find it, best is from the underside of the rig

It sucks. Go OEM gasket.

 

[orangefj45]

yup, oem gasket is the only way to go.

you have to make sure the flange is flat.

it also helps to tig the flange to the egr tube.

i would not use stainless bolts; much weaker than the steel counterpart as far as tensile strength goes. just put some anti seize on them if you're worried about it.

 

[lt1823]

I was able to lay on the ground while the truck was running and put my hand near the exhaust manifold and the j pipe and was able to feel hot air coming out about 3 inches away from the flange. It make a puff of air for every tft,tft,tft sound.

I only found this after I (we-thanks dave) replaced the manifold gasket ..... 3 times...... but that's another story.

Why did you have to replace the manifold gasket three times? And are you talking about the intake manifold gasket? I am getting ready to replace the egr pipe with the SOR pipe and a Remflex gasket, replace the exhaust pipe flange gasket, and possibly take it down to the manifold and replace the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets with remflex gaskets. So any advice you have to help me avoid doing this twice would be a huge help. It sounds like a lot of this is just part of being an fj60 owner and I will most likely have to do this stuff again at some point, but any advice you have would be a huge help. Thanks a lot!

LT

 

[g-man]

younamehere was last seen in June 2021. I'll take a stab at it and say he was talking about the j pipe to exhaust manifold gasket. There is a flange at the pipe here and 2 studs that are on the exhaust manifold close to the firewall and face downward. The flange has 2 holes that the studs go through and then two 12 mm nuts are threaded on the studs.

I just did all of this recently. Try to pinpoint where your leaks are at BEFORE removing anything. Don't do unnecessary work. The j pipe won't come off the egr cooler very easily ...especially while still on the truck. It's a large nut and takes a very large wrench to break it free. There is not much room to turn a large wrench while under the truck. It's a can of worms for sure. Especially if you haven't removed this stuff in a long time or ever. Spray everything down wih liquid wrench for few days before hand. The gasket at the flange end of the j pipe CAN be replaced while on the truck but you may have to remove the bolts from the egr cooler and let it drop down a little. It's a lot easier to get the j pipe flange bolted up to the manifold if the exhaust pipe is out of the way. The J pipe seal at the large nut is held by the nut pushing a ferrule ring against the pipe. The pipes can get corroded over time and leak there. Thus the ss pipe from sor.

If you remove the intake and exhaust manifold....check to make sure the joint where the intake and exhaust join at the heat riser directly below the carb...BEFORE you take them off. If you don't have any leaks there ...then my advise is to keep them together and replace the manifolds to cylinder head gasket. With the Remflex gasket you won't need to resurface the manifolds. Just make sure you follow the remflex torque specs. It is a softer crush type gasket so less torque.