EGR J-pipe leak (1 Viewer)

[Spike Strip]

Why did you have to replace the manifold gasket three times? And are you talking about the intake manifold gasket? I am getting ready to replace the egr pipe with the SOR pipe and a Remflex gasket, replace the exhaust pipe flange gasket, and possibly take it down to the manifold and replace the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets with remflex gaskets. So any advice you have to help me avoid doing this twice would be a huge help. It sounds like a lot of this is just part of being an fj60 owner and I will most likely have to do this stuff again at some point, but any advice you have would be a huge help. Thanks a lot!

LT

Use the proper locking exhaust fasteners and new studs, if possible. These upgraded studs/stover nuts are perfect as they allow you to tighten the studs without a double nut and can be installed after the pipe is up against the manifold, but you need the proper female (E) torx socket.

From @ToyotaMatt

EGR Inlet #1 Gasket Repair Kit Special TORX Studs and Self Locking Nuts OEM Toyota Parts Late Model FJ40 FJ60 2F 1/75-9/87 - VintageTEqParts.com

EGR Inlet #1 Gasket Repair Kit 2 Special TORX Studs and 2 Self Locking Nuts OEM Toyota Parts Fits Late...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[g-man]

It's hard to reach the inner stud with the exhaust pipe in the way. It will be hard to get your hands up in there. Best to remove the down pipe from the flange first. Then work on the j pipe. Then re-do the exhaust pipe to manifold with a new gasket.

 

[lt1823]

younamehere was last seen in June 2021. I'll take a stab at it and say he was talking about the j pipe to exhaust manifold gasket. There is a flange at the pipe here and 2 studs that are on the exhaust manifold close to the firewall and face downward. The flange has 2 holes that the studs go through and then two 12 mm nuts are threaded on the studs.

I just did all of this recently. Try to pinpoint where your leaks are at BEFORE removing anything. Don't do unnecessary work. The j pipe won't come off the egr cooler very easily ...especially while still on the truck. It's a large nut and takes a very large wrench to break it free. There is not much room to turn a large wrench while under the truck. It's a can of worms for sure. Especially if you haven't removed this stuff in a long time or ever. Spray everything down wih liquid wrench for few days before hand. The gasket at the flange end of the j pipe CAN be replaced while on the truck but you may have to remove the bolts from the egr cooler and let it drop down a little. It's a lot easier to get the j pipe flange bolted up to the manifold if the exhaust pipe is out of the way. The J pipe seal at the large nut is held by the nut pushing a ferrule ring against the pipe. The pipes can get corroded over time and leak there. Thus the ss pipe from sor.

If you remove the intake and exhaust manifold....check to make sure the joint where the intake and exhaust join at the heat riser directly below the carb...BEFORE you take them off. If you don't have any leaks there ...then my advise is to keep them together and replace the manifolds to cylinder head gasket. With the Remflex gasket you won't need to resurface the manifolds. Just make sure you follow the remflex torque specs. It is a softer crush type gasket so less torque.

Thanks a lot for the reply, I appreciate all info. Unfortunately I had leaks coming from just about everywhere - exhaust pipe flange, exhaust pipe original weld just before the flange, EGR pipe gasket, crack in J pipe flange weld (the weld essentially crumbling right off the pipe), at the heat riser etc. My dad and I actually took just about everything out today. We are going to replace the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, EGR pipe with an SOR SS pipe with a new nut and ferrule, EGR pipe gasket, exhaust pipe flange gasket, going to weld the exhaust pipe where there is a small crack in the original weld, heat riser gaskets, going to replace the heat riser insulator with a block off plate…the can of worms has officially been opened haha. We’ve got our work cut out for us for sure, but super excited to get everything back together and hopefully have a nice quiet truck afterwards. We’re using all Remflex gaskets for the EGR pipe and I/E manifolds and fresh heat riser gaskets etc.

I was just trying to see if there were any tips as far as not burning up those fresh gaskets and having to redo everything in the near future. I am hoping that if we torque down all the manifold, EGR, exhaust pipe, and heat riser studs/bolts to spec that hopefully they will not loosen for any reason anytime soon. Considering putting loctite 271 on each of those studs and bolts to prevent them from backing out and eating up those new gaskets.

Any other tips would be much appreciated. I appreciate all the info you gave. Wish us luck!

 

[lt1823]

Use the proper locking exhaust fasteners and new studs, if possible. These upgraded studs/stover nuts are perfect as they allow you to tighten the studs without a double nut and can be installed after the pipe is up against the manifold, but you need the proper female (E) torx socket.

From @ToyotaMatt

EGR Inlet #1 Gasket Repair Kit Special TORX Studs and Self Locking Nuts OEM Toyota Parts Late Model FJ40 FJ60 2F 1/75-9/87 - VintageTEqParts.com

EGR Inlet #1 Gasket Repair Kit 2 Special TORX Studs and 2 Self Locking Nuts OEM Toyota Parts Fits Late...

vintageteqparts.com

View attachment 2880415

Thanks a lot for the heads up. I purchased those very studs and stover nuts from SOR. Would you recommend using loctite 271 on those?

 

[Spike Strip]

Not necessary if properly torqued.

 

[g-man]

My preference is to NOT locktite the studs. If anything I would use some high temp anti-seize. I mean if you strip a stud ....(it happens...cause your working upside down reaching up in there to get the nut on) Then you have to try and remove the stud. It would be a lot easier to remove without having to remove the manifolds from the truck.

Make sure you read through this sticky thread on manifolds: Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/can-we-make-a-exhaust-intake-manifold-sticky.225487/

 

[g-man]

you can read my exhaust struggles and rebuild here on pg 12 post 228 Builds - g-man's land cruiser story - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/g-mans-land-cruiser-story.1059114/page-12

After getting everything back together there is a good chance you will have an exhaust leaks somewhere... For me it was the EGR j pipe at the manifold....now I'm having to remove an old stripped rusty stud... Hopefully I can get it out w/out having to remove the manifolds again.