Ebay double carden drive shaft, any experience?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It's a combination of lift and caster correction that puts the pinion angle where a cv shaft is needed to reduce/eliminate vibration.

ok, so it there a "typical" height of lift that these come into play?

Im asking because my lift install is just around the corner. 2.5 OME. I havent decided on bushings or plates yet to address the caster.

Just wondering if I will see a smoother ride with these drive shafts?

Clint-
 
ok, so it there a "typical" height of lift that these come into play?

Im asking because my lift install is just around the corner. 2.5 OME. I havent decided on bushings or plates yet to address the caster.

Just wondering if I will see a smoother ride with these drive shafts?

Clint-

Don't bother at that height. The stock ones will be just fine.
 
ok, so it there a "typical" height of lift that these come into play?

Im asking because my lift install is just around the corner. 2.5 OME. I havent decided on bushings or plates yet to address the caster.

Just wondering if I will see a smoother ride with these drive shafts?

Clint-

the hub flare measurement is a good indicator of how much correction you will need. It really comes down to how much your truck weighs to how high your truck sits to how much correction you need.

So I would bolt on the springs and take that measurement first. Then decide how to proceed.
 
I installed the OME heavys and without any extra weight, my height measures hub to flare 22.5 in the front and 24 in the rear. I did the cc that came with the kit and it handles well but I need to get rid of the vibration that occurs at 55-70 mph. Should I get one of these DC shafts or will replacing the u-joints take care of the problem? I assume the vibes are coming from the front. Truck has 135K on the clock. Would appreciate some advice here. Sorry for the hijack but this might help someone else too. Thanks.
 
Sorry about the “hype” rant, but one of my customers just left, was here showing off his new Exploder. You probably know the type, foaming at the mouth blue oval fan, dad retired from them, have the 25yr gold watch in the hutch (doesn’t work), ~70 yrs old, the type that you can’t talk to, just listen.

Anyway he was going on about some copied papers that he had (magazine article maybe?) how they proved that Toyota reliability was pure hype and ford, rover and jaguar (he owns one of each) are much more reliable. I congratulated him for doing the killer research before a vehicle purchase and sent him on his way.:hillbilly::rolleyes:

:whoops: that was chat, back to my hole!:o:D

nice
my wifes grandad owned a ford dealership and service bay before he died. i thought he was going to have an anurism when i drove the new lx450 up to his house. he spent many nights hiding under bunkers as the japanese droped bombs durring ww2. he could not conceve that the japanese could build a better car. i learned it was better not to argue. he had (wife still does) an unused ford service center full of lots of classic cars. all fords. even a fully restored model A. i wish he was still alive to see a ford axle under my yota. id tell him "i didn't think the jap rear axle was strong enough"

we'll see if the slee shaft will hold.
 
I installed the OME heavys and without any extra weight, my height measures hub to flare 22.5 in the front and 24 in the rear. I did the cc that came with the kit and it handles well but I need to get rid of the vibration that occurs at 55-70 mph. Should I get one of these DC shafts or will replacing the u-joints take care of the problem? I assume the vibes are coming from the front. Truck has 135K on the clock. Would appreciate some advice here. Sorry for the hijack but this might help someone else too. Thanks.

Have you done any testing to find the vibration? My first test is to grease the u-joints, do one shaft at a time, most times the vibration will be temporally reduced when freshly greased. My guess is, it's the rear shaft, with the ~4" lift you may need to shorten the upper links to get the pinion angle back in range.
 
I did grease the u-joints and that seemed to reduce the vibes temporarily. They are back now. Please explain more about shortening the upper links? Thanks for the response.
 
I did grease the u-joints and that seemed to reduce the vibes temporarily. They are back now. Please explain more about shortening the upper links? Thanks for the response.

The links can be shortened or modified to be adjustable, but most do it by installing adjustable links from Slee.
 
Man those things are expensive. I was hoping I could take care of the problem by putting in new u-joints. It doesn't sound like you think that will work. It really isn't that bad. Just a little annoying.
 
Any diagnoses over the net is a guess, you could have a bad joint. Have you had the shaft(s) out and checked the joints for binding and/or play?
 
Not yet. I will pull the front first and drive it to see if that takes care of it. I will do that and report back. Thanks.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom